Collins Complete Dog Manual

Collins Complete Dog Manual Collins Dictionaries A comprehensive, beautifully illustrated guide to all aspects of owning a dog.All of the aspects of dog ownership are covered in the comprehensive Collins Complete Dog Manual. From choosing which breed is right for you, to all elements of looking after your dog, training your dog and building a meaningful relationship with your dog, this book is the most complete and most authoritative guide to caring for and living with your beloved pet.The book offers an appealing combination of accurate and practical information and stunning photography.Includes:Which Breed?Finding a DogRescue DogsThe Perfect PuppySettling into a New HomeDog Breed GuideThe Most Popular BreedsDog BehaviourHuman/Dog RelationshipCommunication MechanismsCuring Common ProblemsTrainingDaily CareHealthcareAdvanced Dog Care (Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz (http://www.phodographer.biz)) Copyright Note: Dogs obviously come in both sexes, but to simplify our training message we have used 'he’ rather than 'he/she’ or 'it’ when referring to any dog. HarperCollinsPublishers 77–85 Fulham Palace Road, Hammersmith, London W6 8JB www.harpercollins.co.uk (http://www.harpercollins.co.uk) This edition first published by HarperCollinsPublishers 2014 The material featured in this book was originally published in The Family Dog © 2000 and Need to Know: Dog Training © 2005. FIRST EDITION Text © HarperCollinsPublishers Ltd 2000, 2005, 2014 Editorial, layout and design: Tom Cabot/ketchup Title-page photography: Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz (http://www.phodographer.biz) Cover photographs © Ardea; Warren Photographic; Shutterstock (ball) A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library Stella Smyth & Sally Bergh-Roose, David Taylor, Robert Killick and Nick Henderson hereby assert their moral rights to be identified as the authors of their Contributions All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. 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Find out about HarperCollins and the environment at www.harpercollins.co.uk/green (http://www.harpercollins.co.uk) Source ISBN: 9780007513109 Ebook Edition © November 2014 ISBN: 9780007513116 Version: 2014-11-04 Contents Cover (#uc12af757-7b68-5371-811e-99e8e62fc11d) Title Page (#ua280d952-9f8f-525c-b015-2e71138c048e) Copyright (#u57c66021-9220-5d67-b57d-b928b14a2f8c) Chapter 1 (#ulink_2bff6ccc-00b5-5f78-8540-6c1eca720806) Choosing Your Dog (#ulink_2bff6ccc-00b5-5f78-8540-6c1eca720806) Finding a Dog (#ulink_2da24d8f-0c00-5766-ac81-d0af787744fc) Selecting the Right Dog (#ulink_bf6ffcd6-7b64-594e-93f6-eadddaf9d46b) The Perfect Puppy (#ulink_7b5325e3-4748-533e-9f39-af39b01a41b3) Good Social Skills (#ulink_f532807e-4c9b-5983-bd91-0d689f089a43) Chapter 2 (#ulink_36539efe-d2bd-57b2-9db2-a9c0fd1db62f) Dog Breed Guide (#ulink_36539efe-d2bd-57b2-9db2-a9c0fd1db62f) Gundogs (#ulink_9b1fbf77-4a91-56f2-99d7-2946f4eba464) Hounds (#ulink_5363f9cd-b4d3-554c-ab44-0ae6edca586d) Working Dogs (#ulink_c7eed37a-8b08-5e6f-a041-7c8487fa54c1) Terriers (#ulink_d179f494-9cb6-506c-ba59-e2ce0cacc2f8) Toy Dogs (#ulink_a7982f6b-8f2d-5a64-bcf8-041ff6cd88c9) Utility (#litres_trial_promo) Pastoral (#litres_trial_promo) Other Popular Breeds (#litres_trial_promo) Useful Addresses (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 3 (#litres_trial_promo) Good Dog Behaviour (#litres_trial_promo) Communicating with Your Dog (#litres_trial_promo) Communication Mechanisms (#litres_trial_promo) Curing Common Problems (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 4 (#litres_trial_promo) Training Your Dog (#litres_trial_promo) Training Basics (#litres_trial_promo) Body Language (#litres_trial_promo) Starting Off (#litres_trial_promo) Equipment and Training Aids (#litres_trial_promo) Training Programme (#litres_trial_promo) Using Rewards (#litres_trial_promo) Dog Sports (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 5 (#litres_trial_promo) Caring for Your Dog (#litres_trial_promo) Feeding Your Dog (#litres_trial_promo) Grooming (#litres_trial_promo) Exercise (#litres_trial_promo) Going Away (#litres_trial_promo) Healthcare (#litres_trial_promo) Diagnosis and Treatment (#litres_trial_promo) Nursing a Sick Dog (#litres_trial_promo) First Aid (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 6 (#litres_trial_promo) Advanced Dog Care (#litres_trial_promo) Showing Your Dog (#litres_trial_promo) Breeding (#litres_trial_promo) Pregnancy and Birth (#litres_trial_promo) Glossary (#litres_trial_promo) Need to Know More (#litres_trial_promo) List of Searchable Terms About the Publisher (#litres_trial_promo) (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) Choosing Your Dog (#ulink_ff065da1-591e-5557-9de1-51e710e7d5f5) Finding a Dog (#ulink_2da24d8f-0c00-5766-ac81-d0af787744fc) Selecting the Right Dog (#ulink_bf6ffcd6-7b64-594e-93f6-eadddaf9d46b) The Perfect Puppy (#ulink_7b5325e3-4748-533e-9f39-af39b01a41b3) Good Social Skills (#ulink_f532807e-4c9b-5983-bd91-0d689f089a43) If you want a puppy, impulse buying is your worst enemy: every puppy is small, pretty and vulnerable, and it is so easy to fall for a little bundle of mischief without any consideration for the future – the puppy’s future or your own. Buying a puppy or an adult dog is one of the most important purchases of a lifetime. You will be assuming control of another creature’s life and he will be dependent on you for upwards of twelve years, so you are, in effect, buying a new member of the family. Because of the importance of the decision, it is a good idea to consult with all the members of your family from the youngest to the eldest, for each one will bear some responsibility in different areas of the dog’s life. Children should be closely involved as the lessons they can learn from caring for a dog will stand them in good stead for the rest of their lives. Owning a dog now is likely to help them to be more caring to both animals and humans later on in their adult life. Which Breed? There is a breed of dog that is suitable for every family. The UK Kennel Club registers 173 breeds of dog and obviously it will take a little research in order to discover which one is ideal for you but all the effort is well worthwhile. Probably the first consideration is where you live and the size and style of the accommodation. All dogs love freedom and are suitable for country living, with the exception of only some very small heavy-coated breeds, but not all dogs are suitable for city or town life. It would not be right to condemn a large dog such as a St Bernard or any of the larger hound breeds to life in a small flat in a tower block, but dogs, being what they are, would adapt to the life. However, the fact remains that it would not be fair and would almost certainly lead to problems, particularly concerning behaviour and temperament. (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) If you live in an estate where the houses are quite close together, the neighbours must be respected. They have the legal right to peace and quiet and thus a breed that is inclined to yap or bark for long periods is not suitable; neither would you want a breed that has the reputation for being aggressive to other dogs and too defensive of you and your family. Remember that unfortunately not everyone likes dogs, and therefore you would not want to willingly introduce an element into your life which will bring aggravation. Next, consider your own attitudes; if you are super tidy, a dog with a thick double coat that tends to moult heavily would be a source of irritation. He would require daily grooming but would you have the time to do this? There are other considerations, such as is the house left empty for long periods? Is there a member of the family willing and able to walk the dog at least twice a day? Who will be responsible for feeding him and making sure that fresh water is always available? (see Chapter 2: Dog Breed Guide (#ufca3d865-b7fc-584e-a377-0632df7def8e).) (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) Finding a Dog (#ulink_f2d50892-0293-5d8a-800b-6eea5931b1eb) It has never been easier to find out about dogs, and the latest most convenient and complete way to do this is by using the Internet. (© Jean Michel Labat) It is simplicity itself to click on to the Kennel Club’s own website, or one of the others that relate to pets, and link into the breed history, breed clubs and the breeders themselves. It is possible to communicate with breeders and owners around the world and to download photographs and articles. The Kennel Club will also provide you with the telephone numbers of any breeders close to where you live. However, if you are looking for one of the rarer dog breeds, you will have to be prepared to travel further afield. There are literally thousands of books on breeds of dogs and there are many specialist bookshops dealing in the subject. Public libraries are also an excellent source of information, and if they haven’t got a particular book they will order it specially for you. There are weekly newspapers devoted to pedigree dogs, their care, exhibition and breeding as well as some monthly magazines publishing information on every aspect of owning pet dogs. One UK magazine even has a section on finding dogs, with a list of consultants for every breed. A phone call can put you in touch with a friendly expert who is not there to sell you a dog but to provide unbiased information so you can make an informed decision. Pedigree or Mongrel? At about this juncture you will have to decide whether you want to own a pedigree dog or a mongrel. Some authorities claim that pedigree dogs are less healthy than mongrels or cross breeds. Although this may be so with a few breeds, there is no scientific evidence that will prove the case generally. There are two reasons why a dog is classed as a pedigree: • The first is that his ancestry is known and recorded. • Secondly, he breeds true; that is to say that if you mate a dog and a bitch of one breed the resultant puppies will be replicas of their parents (colour excepted). One of the main advantages of a pedigree dog is that within close parameters you will know how big he will grow. You will also know the sort of temperament he is likely to develop. However, buying a mongrel is a bit like a lottery – unless you have some specialized knowledge, the little creature at eight weeks might be a giant at eighteen months; he may have inherited some nasty genes from one of his parents that may not manifest themselves until he is two years old or even older. The Kennel Club, the Internet, canine newspapers and magazines can all help you to find the right pedigree dog or puppy for you. Many prospective owners go to dog shows to seek out breeders but with today’s All Breed Championship Shows, which are held over three days, it is as well to find out in advance on which day your favourite breed is being exhibited. A telephone call to the Kennel Club or a study of the canine newspapers will reveal the most convenient day; the smaller open shows that take place over one day may not schedule your particular breed. Pet shops and puppy farms There are traps into which the unwary can fall: the selling of puppies and young dogs is now a multi-million pound business, and unfortunately there are a few unscrupulous breeders, dealers and retailers waiting for the gullible. Most people have seen on television and read in the national newspapers of ‘puppy farms’. However, these are not farms in the true sense of the word but places where puppies are bred with no thought to their welfare, physically or mentally, and fed on cheap and inferior foods with no veterinary attention. Their breeders are not concerned where they go or what happens to them after they leave their premises. The puppies can either be sold direct to the public via misrepresented newspaper advertisements or they can go to dealers who will sell them by any method. Alternatively, they may be sold on through pet shops. It must be emphasized that these puppies do not have a good future, and it is most unlikely that the vendors will offer a ‘back-up’ in case of trouble. The puppy may become ill and his papers may be false. Therefore it is always wise to buy direct from a breeder, who should be recognized by the Kennel Club, or from a registered charity. Lastly, do not buy a puppy unless you see the mother! Rescue Dogs Not everyone wants the problems associated with rearing a puppy and you may decide on a rescue or an adult dog. A network of breed rescue organisations exists to help you – a call to the Kennel Club will provide the relevant phone numbers. There are many reasons why dogs end up in rescue: broken marriages, deaths or simply an owner going overseas. A large number of these dogs come from a happy home, are well trained and can become a fully accepted older dog in any household. However, some have been ill treated and require tender, loving care before they have confidence in their new home. Because of the difficulties, potential owners should be prepared for some searching questions before the dog is handed over. You may have to pay a small fee to cover expenses. It is also unusual for the Kennel Club documents to be made available; this is to stop the possibility of further abuse to the dog. Of pedigree dogs, greyhounds pose the biggest problem. Many racing greyhounds are bred in Britain and Ireland – far too many dogs for the market to absorb. As a result, numerous greyhounds are abandoned by their owners if they don’t make the grade. Contrary to some opinions, they can be easily trained not to chase small furry animals and can make extremely gentle and loving companions. There are specialist rescue organizations for the breed, which not only rehome ex-racers but actually go to the race tracks in Spain (where greyhounds are frequently ill treated) and buy them back. These dogs are then re-homed in Britain or in Europe. National charities There are national charities that never put down any dog unless he is very old and infirm and, no matter what is done to help him, can never have any quality of life. Both Battersea Dogs’ Home and the National Canine Defence League (NCDL) give dogs of all breeds, including abandoned mongrels, a chance by re-training them, treating their ailments and matching them very carefully with potential owners. Owners are at liberty to return any dog that fails to fit into the new home, and further efforts will be made to re-home the dog, no matter how long it takes. Choosing a rescue dog The problem when looking for a rescue dog is their beguiling eyes. Every one will touch the heart but you must be practical. You will have decided on the most suitable size and how much time you are prepared to spend on grooming the coat. It is in the interests of the rescue centre to match you with a suitable dog so listen carefully to their advice, speak to the person who normally walks the dog you are interested in, and ask them questions. A surplus of greyhounds bred for the circuit means that many are abandoned by their owners – but they can make wonderful, gentle pets. (© Jean-Michel Labat) The dog may be suspicious at the start but don’t worry, this is natural. He should come to you after about five minutes. However, if he shows any aggression, then beware. If he lies on his back urinating slightly, he is being submissive, which is acceptable in puppies but not in adult dogs. There is always a gamble with a rescue dog because his history is usually unknown, and great patience from all the family will be needed. • Sit quietly without making direct eye contact with the dog but keep observing him and his reactions to you. • Offer him a small treat or piece of food and watch his reaction. Does he snatch it or refuse it? • Ask the staff whether you can observe the dog’s behaviour when he is placed with other dogs. • Put a lead on the dog and take him for a short walk. Note how he reacts to you. Then put him back in the kennel and invite him out again. Selecting the Right Dog (#ulink_cd3801e5-6c30-5d64-9caf-ef82506ac764) There is no magic formula for selecting the right dog from either a rescue centre or from a litter of puppies at the breeder’s kennels. It is best that the entire family go together to make a choice, as everybody, including the children, should be there to express their opinion. Dogs From Rescue Centres Staff at rescue centres are deeply concerned that the right dog goes to the right family, and they will ask you about your house and garden, whether there will be anybody at home during the day to look after the dog and also whether you have any other pets. You will be shown dogs that have been carefully assessed and will be told candidly if, in the opinion of the kennel staff, there are likely to be any problems. Before the dog is allowed to leave the kennels there will almost certainly be a home visit as the centre staff will wish to satisfy themselves that your home is suitable for the dog. For instance, they have to ensure that your garden is escape-proof if you want a terrier-type dog and that there are no steep stairs if you wish to adopt a big, elderly dog. One of the most difficult tasks facing any dog lover is to walk along a corridor that is lined with kennels, each containing one or more dogs – their eyes will touch all hearts and in fact it is often better to let the dog make the choice. Families looking for a pet will be allowed to stay in a room with the dog and this is the moment to find out if he likes the family. Re-homing staff often report how a dog, may be indifferent to one family and yet go for another in a big way. There are disadvantages to getting a dog from one of the charities, the main one being that the dog is likely to have been a stray, either lost or abandoned by the previous owners, and nobody will have any idea of his previous life, how much training he has received, any illness he may have suffered or whether he has been abused or ill treated in any way. The staff will have gone to considerable trouble to find and correct any behaviour problems but in the privacy of a home the dog may lack confidence and be troubled by the alien atmosphere. New owners will require a lot of patience until the dog understands his place and what is expected of him. It is, however, quite remarkable how quickly a rescue dog will attach himself to a new family if he is shown kindness. The agency should supply you with the dog’s veterinary record so that in the event of illness or accident your vet will know what treatment has been administered. There will also be a record of your pet’s vaccinations, which you will want to keep up to date. A dog’s digestive system cannot cope with sudden changes of diet, and you should receive a small quantity of his regular food. If you want to change his food, you should do it gradually over several days by increasing the amount of new food each day while reducing the old food. Settling into a new home When you collect your rescue dog or puppy, there is a possibility that he may be travel sick as he might never have travelled in a car before. Although this can often be controlled, it is always advisable to consult your vet on the subject. Do not be tempted to try out home remedies; you must be sure that any medicine used contains nothing that will harm the dog. In his new home the dog must not be pressurized; he should be allowed to find his own level. Put a basket or bed in a draught-free corner with something soft and comfortable for him to lie on. This bed must be inviolable and once he goes to it for a rest he must not be disturbed. Let your children handle the new dog under your supervision. They will soon accept him. (Vanessa Nel) The children must not smother him with love to start with – a tickle under the chin, a pat on the head and a few soothing words will be sufficient. He will let you know when he wants more. Be patient, take your time and before you know it the dog will be your faithful companion. Dogs like routine. Your dog will like to know that he is fed at the same time each day and taken out at the same time. He will have preferences for food but he should not be spoilt; otherwise you may train him only to eat chicken! Try to persuade the children not to feed him titbits at meal times as some dogs tend to get fat. The dog may have had some training or he may never have experienced it at all so it would be an excellent idea to take him to a local training class. It can be a fun evening for your children, especially if your dog is to be trained into the Kennel Club’s Good Citizens Scheme, which, when he passes simple tests, will award the children a certificate. Pedigree Puppies You may opt to start from scratch and buy a pedigree puppy. If you have done your research you will have probably got down to a shortlist of two or three breeds you like. You should now try to find a suitable breeder. You can do this by contacting them at a dog show, but bear in mind that many of the minority breeds have only a few breeders in the country and you may have to go on a waiting list for a puppy. The choice of the breeder is really important so if you don’t like him or her do not buy a puppy from them. The ideal breeder has a policy of breeding sound dogs, both mentally and physically, will take advantage of all the modern veterinary technology as far as genetic tests are concerned, and will be interested in the puppy’s future life. In fact, the purchase of a puppy can often be the start of a lifelong friendship. You must be prepared for some searching questions about your lifestyle, and, in return, the good breeder will not be offended if you ask leading questions about their breeding history. Which Sex? The choice between a dog and bitch is not easy. Bitches are presumed to be gentler and more biddable but the supporters of male animals claim they are more sensitive to their owner’s feelings. Bitches of the larger breeds are probably better with small children, and dogs with teenagers. The main problem with bitches is that they come into season roughly every six to nine months and during this period they must be kept away from the males or otherwise puppies will ensue. Dogs will scent a bitch in season, travel miles and wait for an opportunity to mate with her. Spaying the bitch and castrating the male prevents the problem and does not affect the character of either. Genetic tests From your research you will know which, if any, genetic anomalies are prevalent among your favourite breeds. One of the most frequent in the larger dogs is hip dysplasia. The best breeders, however, have been working on this problem for many years and are succeeding in reducing the incidence in most breeds. You should have found out the average score for the breed and the breeder will show you either the parents’ scores or the mother’s British Veterinary Association/Kennel Club score sheet. If the score is very much higher than the norm, you would be well advised not to buy one of the puppies, however cute. There are other genetic tests, particularly for eye conditions that affect some breeds. The Kennel Club will be happy to advise you about any genetic abnormalities that may be present in various breeds. Choosing a Puppy Take your family to see the puppies, which should be over eight weeks old, but make sure the children are under control. There is a possibility that the puppies have never encountered children before and might be disturbed, as will the breeder. Always ask to see the puppies’ mother. This will enable you not only to see the fully grown size of an adult dog but also, and more importantly, to make a quick judgement of her temperament. Never buy a puppy without seeing the mother first. This will help you to assess a pup’s eventual size, appearance and temperament. (© Jean-Michel Labat) Whichever sex you have decided upon, ask the breeder to remove the others and then examine the puppies individually. Look for any sort of discharge from the eyes, the mouth, the anus or the vulva; if there is any present, don’t take that puppy. Any runt of the litter should also be discounted. On no account should you be persuaded to buy a puppy at a lower price because ‘there is something minor wrong with it’. Therein lies trouble. If everything looks good, watch for the most extrovert puppy, the one that approaches you full of curiosity and happiness, and ignore any that creep about apprehensively. Checking a puppy When choosing a puppy, ensure you examine him thoroughly before committing to a sale. Watch the puppy carefully for reassurance that he is contented and well cared for. Stroke him, play with him and ask to see the mother. • Gently examine the puppy’s anal regions for any tell-tale signs of discharge. • Fold back the ear flap and check for any wax or discharge. The ears should not smell unpleasant. • Check the eyes for signs of discharge. They should be clear; bright and alert. • Examine the mouth and teeth. They should be white and smooth with a correct bite. Taking your puppy home The children will be very excited when you finally bring your new puppy home but you must try to keep them calm during the journey. The puppy is most unlikely to have been in a car before so have a soft blanket available, sit him on a lap and stroke him gently. He may be car sick so you should have a plentiful supply of tissues. Don’t be cross with your puppy if he is sick; he doesn’t know that he is doing anything wrong and should be comforted to make him think that travelling in a car is a pleasurable experience. At first reading, all this may seem to be an awful lot of trouble but owning the right breed of dog can really create enormous interest and give your family a closer understanding of nature. Registering your puppy When you have made up your mind, it is time for business. The registration of dogs and puppies with the Kennel Club is important as you will not be able to show a dog or breed without it. The cost is normally absorbed by the breeder. At the time of buying, you may be dismissive about the need for registration, but do not be hasty. You don’t know how your interests may change in the future, and many great careers in the world of dogs have started with the purchase of a first puppy. It may be that the papers have not yet been issued by the Kennel Club, in which case you must ask the breeder to state in writing that the documents have been applied for and will be sent in the immediate future. When you receive the registration document complete the ‘Transfer’ form on the reverse side, return it to the Kennel Club with the appropriate fee and the dog will be transferred into your name. The Cost For most people the expense of having a dog has to be thought about carefully. The costs of buying and owning a dog can be considerable. The initial cost of buying a pedigree puppy depends very much on the breed but even if you acquire a cross-breed or a mongrel puppy you will still have to pay for his first vaccinations and, later on, for annual boosters. Veterinary treatment is not cheap and statistically some dog breeds need more veterinary attention than others. Fortunately, some insurance companies specialize in insuring against illness and accident in pets, thereby ensuring that you can afford to pay the veterinary fees. The cost of pet insurance varies and you will have to shop around to find the best deal for you, but paying the annual premium may save you a lot of money in the long run if your pet dog ever has an accident or a serious illness. Learning to groom your own dog could end up saving you a lot of money. (© John Daniels) A fact of life is that the bigger the dog, the more he eats. A large dog can cost a lot to feed properly, although there are often cheaper alternatives to expensive dog foods. Another important element is professional grooming, unless you are prepared to learn how to do it yourself. Breeds such as Old English Sheepdogs and Poodles can cost a lot of money per year to keep in trim. Don’t Forget • Discuss a ‘buy back’ agreement with the breeder. Most reputable breeders will agree to have the puppy back if, for any reason, he is not suitable or your home conditions change so much that you cannot look after him. • Do not forget to get a signed and dated receipt when you hand over the money. You should also enquire about insurance; some insurance companies working in conjunction with breeders will offer four to six weeks’ free cover. This is useful as it encompasses the most vulnerable time in a puppy’s life. • The breeder should give you five or six days’ free supply of the puppy’s normal food. Keeping to the same food will help to prevent stomach upsets and enable you to change the diet slowly, if required. The Perfect Puppy (#ulink_d403443b-a1c7-5c07-91e3-c3441667152f) Every puppy is born perfect; it takes human beings to introduce imperfections. Like children, the initial stage of a puppy’s life is the formative part. With puppies the first year is of ultimate importance but what constitutes a perfect puppy varies considerably. While some people are very tolerant of lively, active puppies, others like them to be calm and laid back. However, whatever is wanted, a puppy must always be treated with affection and firm kindness – smacking and harsh treatment of any description are always counter-productive. The perfect puppy should arrive in your house when he is between eight and nine weeks of age, although some unscrupulous breeders, puppy farmers and dealers often try to sell them at six weeks. However, the extra two weeks are of great importance to the young puppy because it is during this time that he will learn from his mother about his own identity in dog terms and also how he should behave with his own species. He also acquires just a little more strength and maturity, which will allow him to settle into a new environment with minimal stress for both dog and owner. Ideally, you should try to get a puppy from a breeder who allows the bitch to have her puppies in the house. In this way, they will be socialized from the moment they open their eyes and they will not be disturbed by the presence of people or any loud household noises, such as the vacuum cleaner, television and washing machine. An added advantage is that the litter is almost certain to have been trained to defecate on newspaper, which is of great help with later house-training. Bringing Your Puppy Home Having made the decision to get a puppy, it can be great fun planning for his arrival. With the help of your children and other family members, you can decide on what sort of things your new puppy will need. The dog magazines are full of advertisements for suitable accessories. You may be lucky enough to have a really good pet shop close by, where the added advantage is that a knowledgeable assistant will be able to point you in the right direction. Your puppy will most certainly need just a few basic items of equipment, including a soft puppy collar, a lead, feeding and water bowls, some bedding and possibly a bed, and also some strong toys, including an artificial bone and hide chews to chew on. Specialist grooming tools can be bought at a specialist pet store or at one of the Championship Shows. There are always a large number of traders selling items solely for dogs. Crufts, which is held annually in March at the NEC in Birmingham, has the biggest selection in the world. One of the fastest and most effective ways to housebreak your puppy is to crate-train him – puppies have a natural tendency not to soil their den or sleeping area. (© John Daniels) Collecting your puppy At least two people should collect your new puppy and ideally he should travel home in the car on someone’s lap. He may never have been in a car before and will be separated from his family and litter-mates for the first time ever, so he will need lots of reassurance and comforting. Be sure to take a supply of tissues and a towel with you as he may be travel sick. Put a bottle of water and a bowl in the car in case he needs a drink. Don’t let him out of the car at lay-bys to go to the toilet as these can be a source of serious infection. Settling him in The first important thing to impress on everybody is that the puppy should not be taken into a public place before having his course of vaccinations for fear of infection (see here (#ulink_2bb9d47a-d83f-5b44-a12b-cba2667a75b1)). Secondly, give him his name and only use it with pleasant connotations. Your puppy should be given a place that he can call his own – a warm, draught-free corner of the kitchen is ideal. You can invest in a hard, unchewable plastic bed lined with some soft bedding or machine-washable, fleecy, man-made fabric but this is not strictly necessary at this stage. When puppies are very young, they often have a great liking for cardboard boxes, so turn a box upside-down, cut an entry hole in it and put in an old sweater. Your puppy will love it because he feels safe inside. He can also chew the box and it can be renewed at no expense. When he gets older, you can buy a proper chew-proof dog bed of adequate size. Whenever he goes into his box, leave him in peace. Instruct the children that his bed is his private sanctuary and he must be allowed to sleep without being disturbed. Like a child, a puppy needs rest. It is during these periods that his body and bones develop. Whenever you put the puppy in his box, give him the command ‘In your bed’ and he will soon understand what you mean. Many people find that a puppy playpen is a very good idea. The puppy’s box can be placed inside, together with his toys. The floor can be covered with newspapers. A playpen will keep your puppy safe and out of the way of the children and family while still allowing him to be with you all and observe what is going on around him. He can rest or sleep, and the playpen can be moved from room to room if wished. For the first day or two, do not hassle the little dog; let him investigate his new home in his own time. Comfort and reassure him because he will feel lonely. Don’t leave him alone in the house but stay with him, talk to him and play gently with him. This is an important socialization period and what you do now will set the pattern for the future, too. Don’t give him any sweets and ‘treats’ or he will suffer an upset stomach. Leave plenty of fresh water down and give him the food that he is used to eating. Did you know? In 1853, Jenny Lind, a Bull Terrier bitch, killed 500 rats in one and a half hours. Another mighty hunter was the so-called Red River Killer of Australia, a dingo cross weighing 53 kg (112 lb) and measuring 2 m (6 ft) long, which killed more than 1,000 sheep and 940 cattle over a period of ten years before it was eventually destroyed. Feeding Your Puppy The breeder should give you a diet sheet, together with a small supply of the food on which your puppy has been weaned. To avoid problems, stick to the regime as closely as possible. Puppies have tiny stomachs and should be fed only small amounts frequently – as many as four or five times a day. After two or three weeks, reduce the number of feeding times to three and slightly increase the amounts given at each meal. Every breed will differ but by the time your puppy is five to six months he should be on two meals a day. Always feed him the best food available, at the same time and in the same place to establish a routine. A wide range of specially formulated food for puppies is available, including complete dried foods, canned foods, biscuit meal and mixers. Alternatively, cook fresh meat and mix it with special puppy biscuit meal. However, the advantage of the commercial puppy foods you can buy is that they provide the right scientific balance of vital nutrients for a growing dog. Feeding guidelines After weaning, puppies need small feeds frequently: four meals a day plus two puppy milk drinks. There is no way to know exactly how much to feed a puppy as every breed differs. A general guide using complete puppy food is 22 g (3/4 oz) per 450 g (1 lb) body weight daily, bearing in mind that medium-sized dogs double their birth weight every seven days, and larger dogs grow even faster. Every major specialist dog-food manufacturing company gives guidelines and most have a telephone helpline. The best way to monitor progress is to weigh the puppy daily. Any standstill or loss of weight needs immediate investigation, so make sure he is getting his proper quota and slightly increase the amount given if necessary. Feeding tips It is always unwise to feed your puppy titbits from the table. If you don’t start now, he won’t bother you when you are eating. • Don’t offer him sweets, sugar-based biscuits, cakes and chocolate. He’ll eat them but they are bad for his teeth and his weight. • If your puppy does not eat his food immediately, don’t leave it down for long in case insects contaminate it. • Don’t allow him to eat the cat’s food or milk, nor should you feed them together. • Don’t feed him cow’s milk while he is still very young. Some dogs react unfavourably to it and it may cause diarrhoea. All he needs is water to prosper. • If he has a diet of complete dried food he will need plenty of water, so make sure he has a continuous supply and change or top it up frequently. • If you introduce new foods, do this gradually so as not to upset his stomach. • Don’t give your puppy cooked chicken, lamb or pork bones as these can splinter and cause serious injury. Hide chews will help with teething and cleaning teeth. • Large knuckle bones can be given but train your pup to give them up to you – young dogs can soon become over-protective of their food and treats. It is wise not to let the puppy have them for too long as he may manage to chew small pieces off that can eventually become impacted in his stomach. It is impossible to over-estimate the importance of giving a dog the correct food. There are hundreds of brands from which to choose, so pay special attention to the manufacturers’ recommendations and be sure not to overfeed your puppy. Dogs are running creatures and should be slim with hard muscles. Even small dogs, such as Pekingeses, should not carry any excess weight. If you are unsure about how much food your pup should be eating, then ask your vet for advice. Do not be tempted to give him extra supplements of vitamins or minerals unless it is on veterinary advice. The modern convenience foods are said to contain all the essential nutrients and therefore there is no need for supplements. Some experts believe that to reach their full potential young adult dogs should have meat or offal as part of their diet. Whichever type of food is offered, an unlimited amount of fresh water should always be available. Night-Time Missing the comforting presence of his fellow litter-mates, your puppy may cry during the first few nights so tire him out by playing with him before he goes to sleep. Place a hot-water bottle under his bedding, put a ticking clock in with him and play the radio quietly – you are trying to fool him into believing that he is not alone. It is best to place the box on a washable, non-carpeted floor and to surround it with newspaper in case the puppy wants to urinate during the night. Puppies rarely soil their bed. If he howls during the night and you go to him he will think you are answering his call so steel your heart and try not to go. However, it is cruel to let him cry all night and if he is very persistent and cannot settle, you may have to take him into your bedroom. Put his box by the bed and comfort him by stroking him from the bed, but on no account let him get up onto the bed because you may be setting a pattern that will be very difficult to change when he grows to his full size. When he is relaxed, you can move his box a little closer to the door each night until it is outside, and then it can be taken back to the kitchen. However, if he does sleep upstairs, make sure that he cannot fall downstairs – his bones will not be calcified until he is about six months old and will break comparatively easily at this age. As a temporary precaution, place a child-proof stair gate at the top of the stairs. This can be used at the bottom of the stairs during the day to prevent him climbing upstairs. If he does go with you, always carry him up and down as he is likely to injure himself if he falls. Life Expectancy Like their owners, dogs are living longer nowadays, but few will pass seventeen years, which is eighty-four human years. The record for canine longevity is claimed for a twenty-seven-and-a-quarter-year-old black Labrador that died in Boston, Lincolnshire, though there are less reliable reports of another dog tottering up to an incredible thirty-four years! Did you know? Like cats, dogs are very sensitive to vibrations and they will give warning of earth tremors some time, and occasionally even days, before humans are aware of any movement in the ground. In 1853, the famous British meteorologist, Vice-Admiral Robert FitzRoy, wrote: ‘In the town of Concepci?n on the Pacific Coast of Chile at 11.30am the dogs fled out of the houses. Ten minutes later an earthquake destroyed the town.’ The curious thing is that dogs react like this only to the imminence of true earthquakes; somehow they can tell the difference between the advance tremors of the real thing and the 150,000 other vibrations of the earth’s crust that occur each year and that cause the animals to show not the slightest alarm. Even scientific instruments cannot tell the difference between the two kinds of tremor, so how does Fido do it? No one yet knows. One year of a dog’s life is equivalent to seven of a man’s, or so the saying goes, but it isn’t true. A one-year-old bitch is mature and can have pups; a seven-year-old child cannot. Many dogs reach fifteen years of age but few folk celebrate their 105th birthday. A more realistic approach has been worked out by the French veterinarian, Dr Lebeau. He has suggested that the first year of a dog’s life equals fifteen human years, the second equals a further nine human years and thereafter each dog year counts for four human years. This provides us with the table shown opposite. Toilet-Training Wherever you put the puppy’s box, surround it with newspaper as he will not want to soil his own nest. When he is accustomed to using the paper, gradually remove some pieces and move the remainder towards the kitchen door. At the door it is then an easy matter to place it outside. Every puppy will indicate that he wants to perform, but each one is different. One may turn in little circles while another will run back and forth sniffing. Whenever your puppy indicates that he wants to go to the toilet or finishes a meal or awakes from a sleep, put a collar and lead on him and take him outside to the place in the garden where you want him to go. Always use the same one or two words as a command and then praise him rapturously when he performs to order. Never chastise him severely when he makes a mistake in the house unless you catch him in the act. If so, use your voice, never your hand. He regards defecating, and where he wants to do it, as perfectly normal behaviour and will not understand why you are punishing him. There are some times when the puppy should be taken into the garden, which will stimulate him to perform his toilet: first thing in the morning, after every meal, after any strenuous play, after a daytime sleep and before bed every evening. With the praise system, he should soon relate it to the required performance. Cats and Other Pets Do not force your new puppy to accept a cat. Holding a cat near a puppy so he can smell it is not advisable – the cat will object and it could be painful for the puppy if he gets scratched. Anyway, the cat will probably find a high place to keep out of the way for the first few days. Feed them both in different places and don’t let the puppy eat the cat’s food; it may not suit his digestion. Sooner or later the cat will venture closer to the puppy, but if he gets too frisky the cat will defend itself. In this way, the puppy will soon learn to keep out of the cat’s way. In the fullness of time it is usual for a dog and a cat to live together in harmony in the same house, even after a tense start. However, this does not mean that the dog will tolerate a strange cat running across the lawn. Take special care to separate him from any pet rabbits, gerbils, hamsters or other small animals, as they are a natural prey for a dog and it would be wise not to tempt him. When your puppy is a little older he can be introduced to any small pets under your supervision, and most dogs will learn to live alongside them. Dangers and Hazards Dogs like being outside if the weather suits them, and their garden becomes an extension of their territory. As puppies, they will explore every corner, so for obvious reasons you must make your garden escape-proof and remember that most puppies can squeeze through very small holes. As they grow, some of the taller breeds will jump 1–1.5 m (3–5 ft) if something attracts their attention. Securing wire netting on top of the fencing and then bending it over inwards towards the dog’s territory solves this particular problem. Make sure also that any gates and garden doors close securely and cannot be opened by an inquisitive dog. Nor should there be a gap at the bottom under which a dog can crawl; if there is, attach fairly strong wire netting to the gate or door at ground level. Inside the house There are danger points inside the house, too. When they are young, long, low dogs, such as Basset Hounds and Dachshunds, and large breeds, such as Wolfhounds, should not be allowed to go up and down stairs as their vertebrae can be over-stressed, leading to spinal disc troubles in later life. A child gate at the bottom of the staircase will put an effective stop to this activity. Electrical sockets, plugs and trailing wires present an almost irresistible temptation to most inquisitive puppies, so cover the wires, unplug appliances that are not in use and switch off the sockets. You could even place a piece of furniture over the socket. With a puppy around, children have to learn to live on a higher level. Their habit of leaving their favourite toys on the floor will tempt the puppy, which will pick up and chew any small plastic toy. This can be very dangerous, as small pieces may become lodged in the dog’s stomach and even tear the lining, resulting in death or, at best, some very expensive veterinary treatment. Puppies also tend to mark their territory with urine frequently and clothes left on the floor are often targets. Indoor Kennels and Travel Boxes One of the great training aids is an indoor kennel, which can be a wooden box with a wire front, a plastic travel box or a simple wire cage. These are all available from good pet stores and also from specialist traders. It is easy to train your puppy to go into it happily by feeding him inside the box; he will very soon enter willingly and the door can then be closed for a short while. This will prove of inestimable value if you want some peace to vacuum the carpet or to go to the shops for an hour. However, do not keep him locked up for long. It is not cruel to box a dog for short periods as they like the security they experience inside it, but make sure that the container is of an adequate size. The dog should be able to stand up, stretch out and lie on his side easily. A travel box is especially good in the car, where a wild young puppy leaping around while you are going at seventy miles an hour is not conducive to safe driving. It also offers security if your car is ever involved in an accident, as the car doors can fly open, releasing a frightened, loose dog that can become a danger to himself and to traffic. A plastic travelling box is ideal for most car journeys. (Monika Wisniewska) At the vet’s Tell your vet that you are going to acquire a dog and make sure he knows which breed so that he can find out in advance about any potential health problems before you take your new puppy along for his first visit. When the puppy has settled down after a couple of days you will need to introduce them to each other. However, do not place the puppy down on the pavement between your home and the veterinary surgery and, above all, do not set him down on the floor of the surgery. There may be other dogs waiting and because yours is a puppy they are likely to be interested. Keep him well away from their inquisitive noses as there is a danger of infection, and most dogs visiting the veterinary surgery are there because there is something wrong with them. Vaccinations The vet will give your puppy a general examination and if he considers he is old enough he will vaccinate him. Several diseases are a threat to your dog’s life, parvovirus, distemper and leptospirosis being the three main ones, and it is essential that your dog is inoculated against these. Most vets will perform the initial vaccination between ten and twelve weeks, with the booster following two weeks later. If the puppy is deemed not old enough for vaccinations, make an appointment at the first opportunity. Puppies should not go out into a public place until about ten days after the vaccinations are complete. Your vet will be able to advise you whether there are any potentially dangerous places locally, and, in particular, never make the mistake of putting your puppy out of the car in a roadside lay-by as these are hotbeds of infection. Now is also the time to ask the vet any questions that might be bothering you about your dog’s diet, behaviour or health, and also about matters such as insurance. Puppies are vulnerable to disease and it is always a wise move to take out insurance because of the ever-escalating costs of veterinary services. There are several reputable companies that offer different levels of cover, so ask your vet for advice. Good Social Skills (#ulink_d6d2794e-f613-57af-88c3-b5a7ca5ff73d) Your dog needs good social skills if he is to become a well-behaved member of canine and human society. Thus it is very important to socialize and train your puppy from the earliest age. This will help to prevent any behaviour problems occurring later on and make your dog more socially acceptable. Your dog must always be under complete control in any public place. Lead Training The first essential accessories that you need are a collar and lead; in fact, two of each. Some trainers recommend that the first collar should be very light, like a cat collar, so that it will not irritate the puppy. The lead can be made of light cloth, which is hardly noticeable. Thus the puppy will learn to wear a collar without being aware of it. The second collar should be more substantial, probably made of leather, with a supple leather lead. An identification disc engraved with your name and telephone number must be attached to your dog’s collar whenever he is outside your home. Do not engrave your dog’s name on it; that would make it too easy for thieves. When a young puppy is old enough to take out after vaccinations, keep him on a lead in public places as there are always many distractions to tempt him away from you. (Daisy Daisy) You can begin lead training almost as soon as the puppy arrives in the house. Let him run about wearing the collar for a little while and then add the light lead – he will quickly get accustomed to it trailing after him. Pick it up and follow him without applying any pressure to the lead. After a little while, assert some light pressure and try to guide him but not so forcefully that he stops to fight it. Talk to him all the time in an encouraging way to boost his confidence. Collars A young puppy will need a lightweight collar made of nylon, soft leather or fabric. He will grow out of it quite quickly so don’t bother buying an expensive one. Did you know? A traditional and most polite greeting in China when entering someone’s home was to ask, ‘What is the honourable name of your dog?’ This applied even where, as in most cases, the householder didn’t own a dog. The old habit of keeping house-dogs had declined and, instead, pottery figures of dogs were used to ‘guard’ the dwelling. Nevertheless, the genteel etiquette of enquiring after the substitute pet continued up until recent years. Make certain that the collar is sufficiently tight that he cannot pull out of it, but at the same time it should not strangle him. Continue the exercise outside in the garden. Make it fun and train in short bursts as puppies become easily bored, like young children. If the teaching period lasts for too long, most puppies will think of something better to do. When your puppy is ready to go out for a proper walk, remember that all cars and lorries appear as huge, smelly, noisy monsters to him and he may be afraid. Carry him in your arms around the block two or three times for a day or two before you put him down. Speak to him gently all the while; it will help to build up his confidence knowing that you are there to protect him. Never allow him to walk in any traffic areas without a collar and lead; a dog does not understand that cars can kill him or that his presence on the road may cause an accident for which you can be held responsible. Play and Games A young dog needs lots of things to do and his brain needs to be stimulated. In the wild, he would be taught to track animals, to fight predators and to catch prey. However, the domestic dog has none of these skills to learn and therefore you should provide alternatives. By doing so, you will minimize the chances of your puppy becoming bored and then engaging in destructive behaviour. Toys and games are the answer; most dog toys are now virtually indestructible, though not totally, as you will soon find out. Dogs, particularly Terriers, love squeaky toys and will not be content until they have found the squeak and killed it. Sometimes, however, they may adopt a soft toy, which Retrievers or Spaniels will carry about in their mouth. Reduce the risk of losing your best footwear by not giving your puppy any personal items to chew or play with, especially shoes, socks and children’s favourite toys. (April Turner) Toys For Playing Games 1. Soft toys: Ideal for retrieving and exercises 2. Tug toys: Ideal for strong and boisterous dogs 3. Squeaky balls and toys: Fine for smaller dogs 4. Kongs: Ideal for mental stimulation when your dog is left alone 5. Rubber rings and toys: Perfect for tug and fetch 6. Frisbees and tennis balls: Ideal for playing outdoor fetch Do not play tug of war with a soft toy – you will be training your puppy to be destructive and possessive. All dogs can be taught to play with a ball but be careful that the ball is not too small. Dogs’ jaws can open very wide and they can swallow quite large objects. If they should accidentally swallow a rubber or plastic ball the consequences can be very serious. Do not give your puppy an old shoe or slipper to chew and destroy – dogs notoriously ignore the difference between old and new shoes. Throw a ball just in front of him, then make a fuss when he returns it and persuade him gently to ‘drop’. When he is proficient at retrieving, hide the ball for him to find, close by to start with but gradually increasing the distance. Games you can play Games for dogs are invariably those of catch, retrieve and hide-and-seek. Dogs derive the most fun out of chasing and retrieving balls. However, the one proviso is to ensure that the ball is not too small in case it slips down a dog’s throat and chokes him. Start when your dog is a young puppy. Another good game is to teach your dog to ‘find your child’. Some dogs love to push a football with their nose, and kids can play footie with their pet. Quoit rings are fun to throw and pull but the ultimate throwing game is with a Frisbee. Dogs get great exercise running and leaping for it. Good pet shops will have a variety of toys, and you should choose those that are said to be indestructible with no metal or plastic. The Kong is particularly good: this is a hollow, eccentrically shaped ball which can be stuffed with food titbits. Your dog will chase it happily for hours, trying to get the food out. Nylon bones keep dogs occupied as well as keeping their teeth clean. Socialization When a puppy faces something he has never encountered before his first instinct is to run, and it is up to you, his owner, to socialize him in such a fashion that he will not be scared of anything. He should not be over-protected from any household noises, and it is a good idea to get him accustomed to the sound of such appliances as the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, radio, television and washing machine. In fact, even dropping a dustbin lid about 5 m (15 ft) away from him is not a bad idea. After his vaccinations, you must introduce him to the people who visit your house regularly: the postman, the milkman and the refuse collectors. Let your friends and neighbours handle him and, when he is old enough, take him into town or to the market and let him mix with people, always on the lead and under your control. Puppy socialization classes are sometimes a good way of getting him used to meeting other dogs as well as a wide range of people. Ask your vet for the details of your nearest class. They are now widespread in most areas. Exercise Young puppies get all the exercise that they require from their own exuberance when running and playing, and there is no need for formal exercise. In fact, it could harm a puppy’s development if he is forced into too much activity at too young an age. The age at which it is necessary varies from breed to breed, but the average is probably at between five and six months – the breeder or your vet can advise. For a large dog, such as an Irish Wolfhound, too much exercise can be positively harmful for a growing puppy whose bones are still growing. It is also a good idea to start taking your puppy for short walks on the lead. Like many other giant breeds, Irish Wolfhound puppies should not exercise excessively before the age of six months. Let them play in the garden rather than take them for long walks. (Kachalkina Veronika) You can teach your puppy some simple but essential commands, such as ‘Sit’, ‘Stay’ and ‘Come’, at home (see here (#litres_trial_promo)). More your dog is ready for formal training it is advisable to attend obedience classes at your local dog training school where there will be some knowledgeable trainers on hand. Social Responsibilities Behavioural scientists have proved that without doubt the ownership of a dog is beneficial to adults and particularly to children, but in the light of today’s social attitudes an owner must train a dog to fit into modern society’s perception of what constitutes acceptable social behaviour. The law is becoming unreasonably harsh when dealing with those it considers transgressors. The 1991 Dangerous Dogs Act in the UK has given the courts the power of what is in effect a mandatory death sentence on any dogs which are judged to have contravened its stipulations. Nobody wants a dangerous dog on the loose but under this law a dog does not have to be deemed dangerous in the accepted sense; the police have only to accuse it of looking dangerous for it to suffer the death penalty. A reverse of the burden of proof applies, which means that the dog is guilty before being found guilty, effectively preventing a defence no matter how trivial the alleged offence. Thus it behoves every dog owner to make certain that they do not fall foul of this law. Councils and local authorities are also taking a tougher stance by introducing new dog ‘no-go’ areas, especially on beaches and parks, and are also enforcing new ‘dog fouling’ by-laws under which dog owners can be fined should they allow their dog to foul public places without picking up the mess. There are many hygienic methods of doing this and various gadgets can be obtained from pet shops to pick up dog faeces. Owners would be wise to always carry something with which to scoop dog mess up, even if it’s just a plastic bag, when they’re out walking their dogs. Always come prepared to clear up after your dog. (Francesco83) At the time of publication of this book there is no legislation requiring a dog owner to either license or register a dog. However, a special committee is sitting in the UK to examine the situation and report their findings. If they find in favour of registration, all owners may have to pay to get their dogs tattooed or micro-chipped for the purposes of identification. However, despite these minor obstacles, sharing your life with a dog more than compensates for all the difficulties, for he will be your loyal friend and companion through all your tribulations. (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) (Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz) (Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz) No matter what sort of dog you choose, be it a pedigree or a mongrel, it can enrich your life and become part of your family. (Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz) Giving a rescue dog – here an eager mongrel – a good home is a rewarding experience for both the dog and owner. (© Jean Michel Labat) Two Labradors at a rescue centre. You might want to take both ... but can only support one. (© Jean Michel Labat) Eight-week-old Parson Jack Russell Terrier puppies: pedigree puppies can set you back several hundred pounds. (© John Daniels) A litter of four Golden Retriever puppies suckling. (Ruta Zukauskaite) This six-month-old Dalmatian bitch glows with health: bright eyes, white teeth, with moist, light-pink tongue and dark, damp nose. (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) When you get home, make sure your puppy has a warm, comfortable bed and some toys to play with. You don’t need a proper basket – a cardboard box will suffice. (Patryk Kosmider) Although puppies (here white West Highland Terriers) appear to have boundless energy and love playing, they spend a lot of time resting, too. (Anna Lurye) Young dogs may well damage your precious furnishings if you don’t provide them with safe things to chew, like a cardboard box or some chew toys – which have the added benefit of improving mouth health and teeth strength. (Erkki Alvenmod) (Milles Away) Siberian Husky (Nata Sdobnikova) Trips to the vet can be daunting experiences for dog and owner alike. (Byelikova Oksana) Let your puppy wander about with the lead on to get him used to it but watch him carefully in case the lead gets caught up on something. (Eldad Carin) To get your puppy used to traffic and road walking, carry him in your arms for a day or two before walking on the pavement. (Christian Mueller) Do not play tug of war with a soft toy but use a dedicated tug toy (as here) – or you will be training your puppy to be destructive and possessive. (Anna Hoychuk) Most young dogs enjoy playing ‘fetch’ with a ball or other toy. It allows them to run freely and have some fun. (Ksenia Raykova) This West Highland White Terrier puppy is meeting some older dogs. Most adult dogs will not be aggressive to young puppies. (Zuzule) (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) Dog Breed Guide (#ulink_9d20dd8f-ccad-52f8-91e0-d0a91b388e86) Gundogs (#ulink_9b1fbf77-4a91-56f2-99d7-2946f4eba464) Hounds (#ulink_5363f9cd-b4d3-554c-ab44-0ae6edca586d) Working Dogs (#ulink_c7eed37a-8b08-5e6f-a041-7c8487fa54c1) Terriers (#ulink_d179f494-9cb6-506c-ba59-e2ce0cacc2f8) Toy Dogs (#ulink_a7982f6b-8f2d-5a64-bcf8-041ff6cd88c9) Utility (#litres_trial_promo) Pastoral (#litres_trial_promo) Other Popular Breeds Useful Addresses In the following pages you will find detailed information on the thirty most popular dog breeds plus brief descriptions of some other well-loved breeds that make good family pets. The way in which dogs are classified varies, and different countries and their canine governing bodies still use different systems. However, they are usually classified according to the type of work they perform. Gundog Group These Gundogs were specifically bred to work at finding, flushing out and retrieving gamebirds. Hound Group These speedy dogs were developed to hunt, chase and kill prey. They are divided into scenthounds and sighthounds for locating prey. Working Group These dogs have been bred over the centuries to perform specific tasks, including guarding, rescue work and police work. Terrier Group These dogs were bred to hunt and dig out vermin and small game. Most terriers evolved in the British Isles and they all adore digging. Toy Group These miniature dogs were first developed and bred to become companions and pets. Their size makes them suitable for city life. Utility Group This group of popular pet dogs contains all the breeds that do not fit easily into the other categories. Dogs in this group make good pets. Pastoral Group These ancient dogs have been used to protect livestock for centuries. They tend to be highly intelligent but need a lot of exercise. Golden Retriever from the Gundog group. (It’s Me Or the Dog © HarperCollins/ © Mark Read) Cocker Spaniel (© Jean Michel Labat) Friendly and sociable and happy-go-lucky, the Cocker makes a lovely family pet. A hallmark of this breed is its happiness when working. Indeed, the Cocker’s enthusiasm knows no bounds, underlined by the incessant tail wagging. It hurriedly quarters the ground, freezing as it bolts a bird or rabbit, waiting for the shot, and then goes after the next. Remembering where the game lies, the Cocker can easily find and retrieve it unmarked because it has an extraordinarily soft mouth. History This charming spaniel is believed to have originated in pre-fourteenth-century Spain. It evolved through selective breeding from several Gundog breeds, depending on the terrain worked and the prey. Originally Cockers assisted in falconry and were later used to drive birds into nets. When game-bird shooting reached its zenith during the nineteenth century, the Cocker was found to be particularly effective in putting up woodcock. Description A square dog with a merry nature and a soft expression. It is well muscled with good bone and is an easy mover. It has a silky, flat coat, well-feathered forelegs and underparts and above the hocks. Its greatest pleasure is joining in family activities, lying by the fire, horse-play with the children, shopping with mother and shooting with father. Fact File Group: Gundog Country of Origin: Spain Male: 39–41 cm (15?–16 in) Female: 38–39 cm (15–15? in) Coat: Flat or wavy, with good feathering; dense, water-resistant undercoat. Life Expectancy: 11–12 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn of any approaching intruders. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Sweet-natured and co-operative. Today there are more pets than there are workers because Cockers are gentle, intelligent, biddable and easily trained. A classic companion, mainly because Cockers love fellowship. Grooming: Daily attention to ears and feathering. Comb out any debris after exercise and groom the dog at least once a week. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: To stay happy, the Cocker Spaniel needs all the exercise possible, particularly free running in woods and fields. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Some hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo) and kidney problems (here (#litres_trial_promo)). Only buy puppies from eye-tested parents. English Springer Spaniel (© John Daniels) A loving family pet, Springers also make great working Gundogs with boundless energy – being so energetic, these dogs become a nuisance without early training. Their prime object is to ‘spring’ game from their hiding place for the shooters but they can also point and retrieve. They will enter the thickest cover fearlessly and leap into freezing water to retrieve a bird. Their extraordinary sense of smell has recently been exploited by police and customs, who train Springers to sniff out drugs and explosives. History One of the oldest recorded sporting dogs, the lively Springer Spaniel was first mentioned in literature by the poet Chaucer. The word ‘Spaniel’ may be derived from the French word for ‘Spanish’, ‘Espagnol’. The Springer was developed to become one of the great working Gundogs during the nineteenth century. Description The Springer is taller than the Cocker Spaniel, with a weather-resistant coat and feathering on the ears, forelegs and hindquarters. The coat may be black and white, liver and white, or one of these with additional tan markings. Fact File Group: Gundog Country of Origin: England Male: Approx. 50 cm (20 in) Female: Approx. 50 cm (20 in) Coat: Weather-resistant coat, with feathering on the ears, forelegs and hindquarters. Life Expectancy: 12–14 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn but friendly. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: This is a gentle, loving dog whose natural desire is to please. The Springer is highly intelligent and reacts well to kind training. They crave and give affection, hating to be alone, and are very good with children. Grooming: They should be brushed and combed once a week (ears daily). Trim the feathering with scissors and make sure you keep the ears dry and clean. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Springers need plenty of free running and play daily. They need things to do, especially retrieving games and play, and take to Agility and Flyball with enthusiasm. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Some hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo). Eye problems include progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) (here (#litres_trial_promo)). Buy only from tested parents. Labrador Retriever (© Jean Michel Labat) Worldwide, this is the most popular Retriever of all. Almost the perfect Gundog, the Labrador Retriever has a natural inclination to retrieve on land and water, a desire to please and the ability to learn easily. They have a need for love and understanding. Their natural desire to play makes them good family pets. A wonderful companion dog. History The seventeenth century saw trade between Britain and Newfoundland – slates out and salt fish back. An all-purpose water dog helped the fishermen to retrieve dropped articles, haul carts and retrieve game. Called St John’s Dogs, they were originally brought to Poole, England, by sailors. The Earl of Malmesbury, recognizing their skills, developed them as Gundogs. Description Labrador puppies may look small and cute but they grow up into large, powerful dogs – the Labrador has a broad, deep chest and a distinctive short, dense coat that can withstand the cold and wet. Coat colours are chocolate or liver, yellow or black. Stimulating their brains prevents destructive habits forming; owners should invent search and retrieve games and involve them in all family activities. Fact File Group: Gundog Country of Origin: Canada Male: 56–57 cm (22–23 in) Female: 54–56 cm (21–22 in) Coat: Short, dense coat that can withstand the cold and wet. Life Expectancy: 10–12 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn but friendly. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Cool and laid back, the Labrador Retriever is tolerant and easy-going with dogs and human beings, enjoys the company of children and will allow them to take liberties. However, it is easily upset by shouting or harsh treatment of any kind. Grooming: Grooming is minimal; all you need to do is just clean the ears and brush the coat weekly to rid it of dead hairs. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: As much as possible. The Labrador is an active, country dog needing plenty of exercise, free running and play. Feeding: Labradors have a voracious appetite and a tendency to become over-weight, so monitor your dog’s diet carefully. Health Problems Hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo). Some eye conditions: multi-focal retinal dysplasia (MRD), progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), hereditary cataracts and entropion (see here (#litres_trial_promo)). The best breeders test their breeding dogs. Golden Retriever (© Jean Michel Labat) Delightful family pets, Golden Retrievers are happy to be the Gundog for the father, an elegant companion for the mother and a playmate for the children. Their versatility and intelligence have led them to becoming great guide dogs for the blind and assistance dogs for the disabled. They are easily trained to be all-purpose Gundogs and work with great enthusiasm, braving the thickest cover and the coldest water. History In 1825 Lord Tweedmouth mated his ‘Yellow’ Retriever to a Tweed Water Spaniel (now extinct). One of the resulting progeny was mated to another Tweed Water Spaniel, the progeny of which was mated back again. It is rumoured that a Bloodhound was added together with a Sheepdog from a troupe of performing Russian circus dogs with which his Lordship became enamoured and bought. And thus today’s Golden Retriever evolved. Description This medium-sized dog is strongly built and muscular with a gentle, loving expression in the eyes. The coat is dense with good feathering and a water-resistant undercoat. The colour varies from a cream to a rich, lustrous gold. Mainly a country hunting dog, the Golden Retriever needs frequent exercise and plenty of mental stimulation. These excellent retrievers have a soft mouth and a good nose for finding lost game. Fact File Group: Gundog Country of Origin: Scotland Male: 56–61 cm (22–24 in) Female: 51–56 cm (20–22 in) Coat: Dense, with good feathering and a water-resistant undercoat. Life Expectancy: 10–12 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn of approach but no aggression. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: A gentle dog of kindly disposition that is highly intelligent and capable of combining the best working qualities with those of a near perfect pet dog. A great companion. Grooming: These dogs should always be brushed and combed twice a week to rid the coat of dead hairs and tangles from the feathering. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Being mainly a country hunting dog, the Golden Retriever needs frequent exercise and plenty of mental stimulation. Can never have enough. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo), elbow dysplasia (here (#litres_trial_promo)) and some eye problems. Buy from tested stock. Airedale Terrier (Roman Zhuravlev) (Ashley Western/www.phodographer.biz) (© John Daniels) (© John Daniels) Beagle (Eric Isselee) A happy, laid-back companion – an intelligent dog with a peaceful nature, the Beagle can adjust well to town or country life. It readily accepts children as part of its family and likes to feel a member of the human pack. Beagles are happy, easy-going and people-orientated, adapting well to most environments. History A small hound dating from Norman times, the Beagle evolved and was developed from the Talbot Hound and the Southern Hound. A further mix with small hounds produced the breed first recorded by name in the ‘Privy Accounts’ of Henry VIII. As the larger hunted animals became scarce, huntsmen developed the Beagle to hunt hares, which they do with enthusiasm and skill. Description Small to medium in size, two varieties of Beagle exist in the United States, one not exceeding 33 cm (13 in) in height whereas the other is taller but does not exceed 38 cm (15 in). However, in Britain, 33–40 cm (13–16 in) is acceptable. Tri-colours are most popular, with a black back, tan sides and top of legs, and a white chest, stomach and lower legs. Having short legs, it works more slowly than the Harrier or English Hound but hunts cheerfully with its flag (tail) held high and enters dense cover with equanimity. Fact File Group: Hound Country of Origin: England Male: 33–40 cm (13–16 in) Female: 33–40 cm (13–16 in) Coat: Short, dense coat that can withstand the cold and wet. Life Expectancy: 12–15 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn but no aggression. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Easy-going, friendly and intelligent dog with a peaceful nature, the Beagle can adjust well to town or country life. Beagles are happy, easy-going and people-orientated, adapting well to most environments. Grooming: A weekly brush and a polish with a chamois leather keeps them looking good. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Beagles need plenty of exercise, which must be augmented with playing in the garden. However, they are not the easiest dogs to train and require a lot of kindness and patience. Feeding: They eat well and care should be taken to keep them in athletic form as they have a tendency to become overweight. Health Problems Rare hip problems. An eye problem under investigation. Otherwise, a hardy, long-lived companion. Dachshund (Julia Remezova) A most adaptable breed, living with equal ease in town or country. Intelligent and easily trained, it is sometimes spirited, always humorous. The Dachshund is a game little dog that loves hunting. All varieties adore activity and need free running and play daily. Each variety has its miniature equivalent. The Smooth-haired Dachshund makes a lively companion and pet. History Mystery veils the real origins of this breed. Its German name is Teckel, a word that is found at the base of an ancient Egyptian sculpture of familiarly long-bodied, short-legged dogs. ‘Dachshund’ means ‘badger dog’ and it is one of the oldest hunting breeds in Germany, mentioned in records since the fifteenth century. Few, if any, Dachshunds hunt in Britain but they have not lost their instincts. A few are still used in Germany and in France, particularly the very small variety know in Germany as the Rabbit Dachshund. Description A long, low dog known as the ‘sausage dog’, it is full of life and always alert. All colours are acceptable but only small white patches on the chest are permitted. The different sizes and coats have evolved since around 1850 and today the most popular variety is the Miniature Long-haired Dachshund. They will go underground but are in danger of getting trapped. At one time, the Standards were general hunters of foxes, deer and even boar. Fact File Group: Hound Country of Origin: Germany Miniatures and Standards: 13–25 cm (5–10 in) Coat: Short, dense coat that can withstand the cold and wet. Life Expectancy: 12–15 years Guarding Instinct: Distrustful, all sizes will warn off strangers. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Easy to live with and very affectionate. Playful and mischievous – sometimes stubborn, as befits a hunting dog. Long-haireds are more independent than Wires and Smooths, which are more demonstrative. Grooming: Whereas the Smooths need a soft brush and polish weekly, the Long-haireds need brushing and combing bi-weekly, and the Wire-haireds should be hand stripped every three months. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Needs plenty, plus play and hunting in woods. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems All varieties can have back problems, and they should not be allowed to run up and down steps or stairs. Only buy Miniature Dachshunds from eye-tested parents. (otsphoto) (Jana Behr) Boxer (Gelpi JM) Bred to be a companion, guard and show dog, the Boxer’s intelligence and brightness of spirit endear him to most nationalities. An alert house guard with a booming voice but never vicious. As a member of a family, the Boxer is truly a fun dog, very affectionate and loyal to the end. The Boxer’s aggressive appearance belies its soft nature – the right dog for the right family. History The Boxer is a German manufactured breed derived from the ancient Mastiff-style dog that accompanied the Roman legions across Europe. Like several other big breeds, Boxers have, in their lineage, the blood of the Bullenbeiser – dogs bred for the purpose of bull baiting. However, the Boxer did not come to the fore until around 1890, after bull baiting was outlawed. Description A superb athletic body rippling with muscles, of medium size with a short, glossy coat in fawn shades from light to deep red, or distinct brindle stripes. White is allowed but not exceeding one-third of the base colour. Once over the puppy stages, Boxers are easily trained for all manner of security work. The breed is used in Europe as a police dog where its muscular, hard body can stop a criminal in his tracks. Armed forces make use of its determination and confident attitude. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Germany Male: 56–63 cm (22?–25 in) Female: Slightly smaller. Coat: Short, dense coat that can withstand the cold and wet. Life Expectancy: 9–10 years Guarding Instinct: Distrustful, all sizes will warn off strangers. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: The Boxer can be boisterous and exuberant and should be trained kindly not to jump up on children, whom it loves. Its aggressive appearance often warns off wrong-doers, but this dog is not a biter and its formidable looks belie its soft nature. Grooming: Minimal: a weekly brushing will remove dead hairs, then polish with a chamois leather or hound glove. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Natural athletes, Boxers need plenty of activity, free running and play. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Some hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo) but serious heart problems. Buy from reputable breeders who test their stock. Some deafness in white dogs. Schnauzer (Eric Isselee) Absolutely devoted to its family, the Schnauzer is a happy dog that can be trained fairly easily to be obedient. The original Pinscher was an all-round farm dog that did anything that was expected of him. The modern Schnauzer is usually a much-loved family pet and does not generally have work to do. Even so, it still retains the will and the ability. History This friendly, muscular dog was almost certainly derived from the ancient Wire-haired Pinscher to which it bears a startling resemblance, as can be seen in a picture by Albrecht D?rer (1492). A fourteenth-century statue of a hunter in Mecklenburg, Germany, has a similar-looking dog crouched at his feet. This old breed was once a general farm dog. It was used to accompany stagecoaches in order to defend them against robbers who worked the forests, and thus it became known as the ‘Carriage Griffon’. Description A chunky, medium-sized muscular dog, its coat is black or pepper and salt (greyish) in colour. The outer coat is wiry, harsh to the touch and is distinguished by a beard and bushy eyebrows; the undercoat is dense. A good all-round family pet. Although this dog may look fierce and is very protective of its family, it has a very friendly nature. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Germany Male: 48 cm (19 in) Female: 46 cm (18 in) Coat: Dense, wiry coat; dense undercoat. Life Expectancy: 12–14 years Guarding Instinct: Suspicious, so prowlers beware. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Courageous and assertive, it is a friendly dog and needs strong but kind handling. Grooming: Needs hand-stripping four times a year, and the leg and face furnishings should be combed out twice a week. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: All Schnauzers require frequent running exercise and play to maintain their athleticism and mental health. They are also the natural friends of horses. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems None. This is generally a very healthy, hardy breed. Siberian Husky (otsphoto) Kind, gentle and very affectionate, in the land of their origin the Husky is a much-cherished working dog and was used for hauling sleds laden with meat and fish. Their tremendous strength and stamina allow them to make some phenomenally long journeys. An excellent companion for energetic families. History Husky sled dogs were the only means of transport in Alaska during the gold rush of 1900. Dog team drivers developed rivalries and started to stage races. In 1920, a team of twenty Siberians pulled a sled for 340 miles carrying vaccines to the diphtheria-stricken city of Nome, saving the population. A statue of a sled dog in Central Park, New York, celebrates that achievement. Because the breed have lived closely, probably for thousands of years, with the Chukchi nation, they are ‘people orientated’. Description The medium-sized Husky looks very alert and is lithe with grace. It has an abundant weatherproof coat with a thick, soft undercoat. The breed comes in a variety of colours; the facial colours can be contrasting, unusual and striking. Elegant and athletic, the Siberian Husky does not bark but howls and talks. Today, in the West, they are usually companion dogs, although the sport of sled dog racing is growing rapidly. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Siberia Male: 53–60 cm (21–23? in) Female: Slightly smaller. Coat: These dogs moult freely and have a double coat. Life Expectancy: 12–15 years Guarding Instinct: Not a guard dog, too easy-going. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: The Siberian Husky is gentle, friendly and people-loving, intelligent and biddable. Easy-going, easy to train and anxious to please, it’s a pack dog that understands its family, particularly the children. Grooming: Twice-weekly deep grooming required; the undercoat can knot. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Without their work, all Huskies will need frequent free running and exercise, and new owners should consider joining a specialist club that races with wheeled carts. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo) with a low breed average. There are some eye problems, so puppies should come only from eye-tested parents. Rottweiler (Eric Isselee) In spite of its powerful body and formidable appearance, this dog can make a good pet if properly trained. Very few Rottweilers are used for their droving ability nowadays. Instead, their strong protective instincts are put to use in security work. A young puppy will need kind but firm training and lots of socialization if it is to grow into a good-natured adult. History The likely origin is from the Mastiff-style dogs that travelled with Roman armies driving livestock as they swept northwards conquering Europe. First used as boar hunters, then as cattle drovers in the German city of Rottweil (a cattle market town in mediaeval times), they doubled as custodians of traders’ money. The Rottweiler is devoted to its family but must be taught its place kindly but persistently. Description A big, thick-set, muscled dog, the Rottweiler should show boldness and confidence, never nervousness or aggressiveness. The Rottweiler has a calm look that indicates a good nature and needs no training as a house guard. Because of its intensely protective nature, it is not advisable to leave this dog with young children as, like all guarding breeds, it might misinterpret their signals. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Germany Male: 63–69 cm (25–27 in) Female: 58–63 cm (23–25 in) Coat: Thick, smooth coat. Life Expectancy: 10–12 years Guarding Instinct: Great guard dog, malefactors beware. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Highly intelligent, the Rottweiler’s strong naturally protective instincts need socialization with firm but kind training. These dogs can be difficult in the wrong hands – can be dominant without training. Grooming: Easy care; need only be brushed once a week with a stiff brush to remove dead hairs. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Keep these big dogs’ muscles hard with walking, free running and play. If you live in a town, you should take them out for a brisk walk at least twice a day. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Occasional hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo); osteochondrosis dessicans (OCD) largely under control (here (#litres_trial_promo)); entropion (here (#litres_trial_promo)). Dobermann (© Jean Michel Labat) A devoted, affectionate house dog, the Dobermann is very intelligent and is easily trained but its power must be kept under control. It is a devout family companion that loves to be part of daily activities. Its guardianship of the family’s children is legendary but it must be trained firmly but kindly. A family dog for experienced owners. History This breed was designed in the 1880s by Herr Louis Dobermann, a German tax collector. At a time when taxes were collected personally, he wanted a fearless, alert dog with stamina to defend him as he travelled the country. His secondary job as ‘dog catcher’ gave him the ideal opportunity to study breeds. The Rottweiler, the old German Pinscher and also the Manchester Terrier were probably the foundation. Later the breed may have been refined further with the addition of Pointer and Greyhound blood. Description A big dog, the Dobermann is very graceful, with a refined outline; a powerhouse athlete. The coat is a glossy black, brown, blue or fawn (Isabella) with a rich tan, which must be well defined. Powerful but elegant, a well-trained Dobermann makes an ideal guard dog and an affectionate pet. If it is well socialized and trained, a Dobermann puppy can adapt really well to family life. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Germany Male: 69 cm (27 in) Female: 65 cm (25? in) Coat: These dogs moult freely and have a double coat. Life Expectancy: 10–13 years Guarding Instinct: A powerful guard dog. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: A great family dog needing to be trained. Grooming: Very little is required; a weekly brush and polish with a chamois leather will be enough. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: An hour or so of walking every day with about ten minutes’ free running will suffice. Add fifteen minutes’ play in the garden and a Dobermann will be happy and fit. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Low to average hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo). Buy from eye-tested parents and test the puppy. Von Willebrand disease (here (#litres_trial_promo)) is also possible. Great Dane (© Jean Michel Labat) The Great Dane is a majestic-looking dog with its powerful physique and appealing expression. Very family orientated, Great Danes are easily trained and obedient. Although large, they are not clumsy and don’t take up too much space. However, a big house and garden are best. Seriously fond of their family’s children, they will defend them if any danger threatens. The Great Dane is a gentle giant in spite of its size. History There is no doubt that this dog’s ancestors were giant war dogs from Asia Minor known as Allens. They probably originated from ancient Egypt. They were used as war dogs by Attila the Hun and fought wild animals in Rome’s Colosseum. The modern dog was developed in the 1500s in Germany for hunting wild boar. A pack owned by Earl Philip of Hessen killed 2,572 boar in 1563. From about 1882, when the Breed Club was formed, the breed changed course and became a pet and guard dog. Description A majestic dog, the Great Dane has a soft expression and an athletic body with a look of ‘dash and daring’. Colours range from brindle with stripes to fawn-light to dark, blue-light to dark slate, black or harlequin with black or blue patches which appear torn. Friendly, outgoing, favours children – a deeply affectionate big dog, loyal and caring for his family. Fact File Group: Working Country of Origin: Germany Male: Min. 76 cm (30 in) Female: Min. 76 cm (30 in) Coat: These dogs moult freely and have a double coat. Life Expectancy: 6–8 years Guarding Instinct: Suspicious nature, will guard owners. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: It is a courageous, devoted but sensitive breed, belying its bloodthirsty past. Never play fight with this breed. Grooming: A weekly good brushing will keep the dog’s coat lustrous; the ears need cleaning at the same time. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: These dogs need only some gentle exercise when young, which can be built up gradually over time to develop their muscular, athletic body. A fully grown adult Great Dane will demand plenty of walks and free running. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo), elbow dysplasia (see here (#litres_trial_promo)), bloat and eye problems, which are under investigation. (Vera Zinkova) (Nikolai Tsvetkov) (Liliya Kulianionak) Parson Jack Russell Terrier Highly intelligent, the busy Jack Russell is always doing things and is very affectionate as well as being a good guard – ever alert and watchful. Their wonderful friendly nature blossoms within a happy family and they are very patient with children. Ideal for the dynamic country family. History Parson Jack Russell was born in Devon in 1795, took a good degree at Oxford and was ordained in 1819. It was while he was up at Oxford that he acquired the terrier bitch that was to be the foundation of the breed that was named after him. While strolling in Magdalen Meadow one day he met the local milkman and saw, for the first time, the terrier named Trump. He did not move until he had persuaded the milkman to part with her. The parson died at eighty-four, still in the saddle, his breed of dogs a fitting memorial. Description A small athletic dog, it is full of vitality, slightly longer than its height at the shoulders. The wiry or smooth coat is mostly white with black and/or tan patches. Note that the long-legged Parson Jack Russell should not be confused with the smaller-legged Jack Russell terrier. This dog has courage without recklessness coupled with stamina. It is also one of the great ratters, with razor-sharp reactions. Ever vigilant, the Jack Russell’s keen senses will flush out small prey, such as rats and mice. This is an easily-trained, fun dog that is into everything. Fact File Group: Terrier Country of Origin: England Male: 35 cm (14 in) Female: 33 cm (13 in) Coat: There are two distinct types: the smooth variety and the rough coat. Life Expectancy: 13–15 years Guarding Instinct: A very watchful dog; intruders beware. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Happy-go-lucky fun dog, very intelligent and trainable. Grooming: The smooth variety requires only a weekly brush whereas the rough coat needs hand stripping or trimming every four to five months as well as weekly brushing. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Basically, this is a country dog needing plenty of exercise and mental stimulation. The long-legged Parson Jack Russell loves to be hunting outside. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems A generally healthy breed but buy from eye-tested parents. West Highland White Terrier Feisty, stubborn, friendly, playful and affectionate, the Westie is a bright pet for town or country. A clean and biddable terrier. A fun dog that one minute will be digging up your flower beds while hunting non-existent moles and the next minute will be lying on your lap with all the love of a spaniel. A family dog full of zest. History Up to the mid-1800s the terriers of Scotland were a nondescript mixed lot that kept down the rats and foxes on the small crofts. As foxhunting became fashionable, gentlemen began taking notice of terriers but white dogs were not liked. However, a Colonel Edward Malcolm, thinking one of his own brown terriers was a fox as it emerged from an earth, accidentally shot it, and from then on he developed this unmistakable white terrier and was the breed club’s first chairman in 1906. Description A short-legged, square dog with a profuse wiry white coat that needs careful attention in order to maintain the typical shape. The head should be slightly domed with very dark eyes. The Westie was used as an all-purpose worker that was kept as a ‘vermin’ killer and taken out to hunt foxes, otters and wild cats. It had stamina and courage, and was agile enough to clamber over rocks and penetrate the smallest holes where its prey could hide. Fact File Group: Terrier Country of Origin: England Male: 28 cm (11 in) Female: Slightly smaller. Coat: There are two distinct types: the smooth variety and the rough coat. Life Expectancy: 12–16 years Guarding Instinct: A good, alert guard. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Playful, mischievous, happy. Grooming: It needs stripping and shaping every three months and combing daily. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Twice-daily walks are essential and the Westie needs the freedom to run and play-hunt in a garden with the family. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Some eye problems are under investigation; a type of eczema and fairly rare Perthe’s disease. Staffordshire Bull Terrier (© Jean-Michel Labat) The loyal Staffie is fearless, people-friendly and intelligent but must be disciplined and trained. This dog is relatively easy to train providing patience is asserted. Despite its bloody history, it is now one of the most faithful and affectionate, family-loving pets. A Staffie will fiercely guard babies and is good with older children when they show respect. History The Duke of Hamilton, a sporting rake who lived around 1770, developed a lighter fighter (the big Bulldogs not being fast enough), which is claimed to be the forerunner of the breed today. At the end of the eighteenth century, they were the best fighting dogs in existence. Later on, they also proved themselves in rat-pits where a dog, Billy, killed 100 rats in seven minutes thirty seconds. However, it was not until the 1930s that a Breed Standard was created and the Staffie became a showdog and companion. Description A chunky, well-muscled, medium-small dog, the Staffordshire Bull Terrier has a wide head, a pump-handle tail and walks with a jaunty air. The Staffie has a wide, deep chest and straight forelegs. Even though it is very muscular, the Staffie is an agile dog. Affectionate and loyal, these dogs make good pets – a wonderful family dog but not for the novice owner. Fact File Group: Terrier Country of Origin: England Male and Female: 35.5–40.5 cm (14–16 in) Note: Height is related to weight. Coat: The smooth coat is red, fawn, white, black or blue. Life Expectancy: 12–14 years Guarding Instinct: A forceful deterrent. An outstanding house guard. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Easy-going, happy clown. Grooming: Grooming is minimal; all that is needed is a brush and polish weekly to get rid of dead hairs; use a hound glove to polish. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Staffies need both physical and mental stimulation, with plenty of exercise including free running and play. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Generally a healthy breed but buy from eye-tested parents and have your puppy tested. (godrick) (Dmitrijs Dmitrijevs) (arturasker) Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (© Jean Michel Labat) The modern Cavalier King Charles was almost certainly developed from the land spaniels of the fourteenth century, which may have come from Spain. The Stuarts were besotted with them and named them ‘King Charles’. An ideal family companion. With its friendly character, this dog is a joy to own. History Although the breed started as a Gundog and companion, it became a showdog and pet when dog shows started in the mid-1800s. A fashion developed for short-nosed dogs and the original breed began to decline again. An American, Roswell Eldridge, then offered handsome prizes to anyone who could reverse the trend and, gradually, by selective breeding, today’s type of longer-nosed Cavalier King Charles evolved, and it has become the most popular of the Toy Spaniels. Description An elegant, refined small dog with a kind expression and outgoing, perky character displaying a free action when moving. A silky coat with colours that are vivid and clearly delineated. These lively little dogs come in a range of colours, including ruby, traditional Blenheim and tricolour, as well as black and tan. Docile, gentle and intelligent, the Cavalier King Charles quickly learns the ways of its human family. Confident and gently assertive, it loves to play with children but doesn’t like roughness. Fact File Group: Toy Country of Origin: Spain Male and Female: 30–33 cm (12–13 in) Coat: Silky coat in a range of colours from ruby to black and tan. Life Expectancy: 9–14 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn but with no aggression. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Kind and gentle. Grooming: The silky coat needs weekly combing; pay strict attention to ears and feathering – look for any tangles after walks. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Being small, the Cavalier King Charles needs less exercise than the bigger spaniels. However, it’s keen on activity of all kinds – loves frequent free running and play. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Some hip dysplasia (#litres_trial_promo); both sexes should be heart tested; and puppies and their parents should undergo eye testing. Pug The Pug is always an amusing companion and they are guaranteed to bring laughter into any house with their strange facial expressions. They like sitting up high to watch the world go by. Pugs have forceful characters and are very strong-willed. They make rewarding and entertaining pets – a great companion if you don’t mind a little snoring! History The great canine authority Clifford Hubbard believes that the Pug and Pekingese were originally related because of the striking similarity of their muzzles and their body shape. However, they were separate by the 1600s, as shown in Chinese art. Dutch mariners brought them to Holland, whereupon they became favourites of the Dutch royalty. William and Mary later introduced the Pug to Britain, where it was often decorated with orange ribbons as an honoured member of the Royal Household of Orange. Description A sturdy, thick-set small dog with a fine, smooth, short coat, which may be coloured silver, apricot, fawn or black with a facial mask. The Pug has a distinctive flat face and prominent eyes. There is no evidence that this breed ever worked, although, from an evolutionary point of view, they are Mastiffs. Their ‘work’ has always been to bring solace to human beings, for whom they have an uncanny understanding. Fact File Group: Toy Country of Origin: China Male and Female: Ideally 25–28 cm (10–11 in) Coat: Smooth, short coat, which may be coloured silver, apricot, fawn or black. Life Expectancy: 12–15 years Guarding Instinct: Not a guard dog but will warn. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Even-tempered, lively and humorous. Tolerant, easy-going with children, Pugs are very intelligent, with an independent comical character. Grooming: Grooming is easy; a light brushing daily gives a glow to a Pug’s coat. In addition, you should keep the eyes and ears clean. They can easily be trained to be clean. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Pugs do not require excessive walking but enjoy a walk twice a day as they like seeing the world. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems The Pug enjoys good health generally but sometimes experiences a little difficulty in breathing, so take care in hot weather. Chihuahua (© Jean-Michel Labat) Totally unaware of their truly diminutive size, these dogs believe themselves to be Mastiffs in heavy disguise. Intelligent and easy to live with, their only work is to be amusing companions and hairy hotwater bottles in the past! Affectionate and bright, they make the perfect pet – ideal for the elderly. History Experts are unsure as to the origins of this tiny dog. Some Americans discovered the breed in Chihuahua State, Mexico, and they thought it was Mexican, but there is no evidence to support this. The European breeds they most closely resemble are the Portuguese Podengo and the Maltese Kelb Ta But (the pocket dog). In 1530, the Knights of St John, including the Spanish and Portuguese, captured Malta, so perhaps they took back tiny dogs for their ladies? When the Spanish colonized Mexico, would not the ladies have taken their companion dogs? Description Tiny, dainty, active and even feisty, the Chihuahua comes in smooth-coated and long-haired varieties in any colour or mixture. Most people keep more than one as they live together easily and will share their home with cats and other household pets. Care must be exercised when children handle them as their bones are very small. Most Chihuahuas adore being fussed over. Fact File Group: Toy Country of Origin: Portugal/Malta? Male and Female: Ideally 15–23 cm (6–9 in) Coat: Comes in smooth-coated and long-haired varieties in any colour or mixture. Life Expectancy: 15–20 years Guarding Instinct: Will warn of approach of strangers. Temperament & Grooming Temperament: Very affectionate, active and a bit feisty. Grooming: The smooth-coated variety needs minimal grooming, but the long-haired variety should be brushed and combed lightly twice weekly. Exercise & Feeding Exercise: Active and athletic, this little dog loves a walk and to play in the garden. However, it does not need excessive exercise. A daily walk with plenty of play. Feeding: There are no special feeding requirements. Health Problems Slipping patella and some heart murmurs. Check with your vet. Pomeranian A happy and amusing dog that is very fond of its family and given to being noisy unless trained otherwise. Full of vitality and fun, Pomeranians are always anxious to involve themselves in family activities. An ideal pet for a busy urban family. A type of tiny Spitz dog is depicted on some Roman artefacts and there is evidence of this dog’s existence throughout Europe ever since. History It is likely that this minuscule dog is closely related to the much larger Nordic Spitz breeds, such as the Samoyed and Keeshond. It came to Great Britain from Pomerania, Germany, in around 1870 in the form of the much bigger German Spitz – the British bred them smaller and gave them their new name. However, they did not become popular until Queen Victoria exhibited her own dog at the Kennel Club’s show, after which the breed’s future was assured. Description A Lilliputian dog, a tiny round ball of fluff. The adult coat is abundant, thick and plush. All colours are permissible, including whole colours – white, black, brown, pale blue or vivid orange – and parti-coloured. They have a large, distinctive Spitz-type ruff of fur. Pomeranians look very cute but they are actually good watchdogs and will warn of approaching strangers – being self-confident, they aren’t worried by bigger dogs. Fact File Group: Toy Country of Origin: Scandinavia/Germany Male and Female: Ideally 22–28 cm (8?–11 in) Coat: Abundant, thick and plush. Конец ознакомительного фрагмента. Текст предоставлен ООО «ЛитРес». Прочитайте эту книгу целиком, купив полную легальную версию (https://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=39780381&lfrom=688855901) на ЛитРес. Безопасно оплатить книгу можно банковской картой Visa, MasterCard, Maestro, со счета мобильного телефона, с платежного терминала, в салоне МТС или Связной, через PayPal, WebMoney, Яндекс.Деньги, QIWI Кошелек, бонусными картами или другим удобным Вам способом.