Masterclass: Make Your Home Cooking Easier

Masterclass: Make Your Home Cooking Easier James Martin TV favourite James Martin’s knock 'em dead collection of brilliant recipes.James’ impressive cookbook portfolio has given us British classics, hearty favourites, and mouth-watering desserts, and still he has more ideas to share; and they're getting better and better. In his latest book, James is out to remind us all that, at heart, he's a skilled chef who knows his way round a kitchen.Great food needs no dressing up and these recipes speak for themselves - fantastic ingredients, clear-cut methods and flavours that pack a punch. These are dishes you will actually want to eat, easy enough for cooks of every level, but impressive enough that restaurant chefs would be proud to serve them. James' signature no-nonsense style is here, as well as something we don't get on TV - a peek into his real chef's background, with snapshots from the heat of professional kitchens around the world.Bold, unfussy and all about the food, this is the book James Martin fans have been waiting for. James Martin Masterclass Make Your Home Cooking Easier Contents Introduction Soups, Stews & Pies Fish Poultry Red Meat Pork Pasta & Grains Vegetarian Salads Sides Bread, Cakes & Desserts Supplier List (#litres_trial_promo) Searchable Terms Copyright About the Publisher INTRODUCTION There are certain cookery skills that form the basis of all dishes. These basic skills, combined with good ingredients and the application of heat are all that is needed to achieve great cooking. Take a souffl?, for example. You can spend hours whisking egg whites and buttering the dishes, but if your basic white sauce is wrong the dish just won’t succeed. However, with current food trends changing at such a pace and chefs constantly trying to reinvent the wheel, these essential kitchen skills can sometimes get overlooked. If there is one thing I’ve learnt from my time presenting Saturday Kitchen, it’s that we should never stop listening or learning. While this means being open to exciting new techniques and methods, it also means taking the time to step backwards and perfect the basics, to get the essential skills right, because these underpin everything else you cook. Letting other people share their knowledge and wisdom with you is also key to becoming a better cook. I’ve had the honour and privilege of meeting many brilliant chefs, from Daniel Boulud, with his three Michelin stars, to my true friend Michel Roux Senior, one of the world’s greatest chefs. Working alongside people like this, you quickly get an insight into what is happening in the world of food, and they have taught me a lot. And perhaps the ultimate compliment is when a great chef has learnt something from me: for example, if they place one of my dishes on their menu. (As a result, I now have Michel Roux’s restaurant menu up on the wall in my loo, but please don’t tell him!) It just goes to show that, no matter how old or accomplished you are, there is always something more you can learn. So with this in mind, I’ve considered the many skills, techniques and bits of knowledge that I’ve picked up throughout my career and have gathered the best of them together for you in this book. Inside these covers you will find the very basics, including step-by-step instructions for filleting fish, jointing chicken and mastering that classic white sauce. I also share the best recipes and nuggets of information that I’ve absorbed during my travels around the world, including a recipe for the most delicious pasta sauce that I tasted in Naples and some amazing grissini sticks that I ate in Venice, whilst others stay true to my love for British food, such as Arbroath smokies (my food heaven) blended into a p?t? and served with warm toasts. Over the last decade, I’ve watched the food and ingredients we use in this country change a lot, with specialist and exotic ingredients now much more readily available. I’ve also learnt that it’s amazing to find what is right on your doorstep when you go out and look for it, with some really excellent local produce available to us. Sadly, many local producers and farmers are going out of business, due to a lack of knowledge about their ingredients, as well as the importation of cheap foreign food. I firmly believe that there is no such thing as food that is cheap and good. You get for what you pay for. That’s not to say it needs to be stupidly expensive, but British beef is worth the extra cost because it tastes brilliant, and the same goes for seasonal strawberries and fresh seafood; these are the luxuries of living where we do. So not only should we be reinforcing our basic cooking skills, we should also be looking after our suppliers and producers by giving them our custom – because once they are gone, the void will be a long time filled and our cooking won’t be as successful. Learning from the experience of other people is perhaps the best way to become a better cook, so I hope that Masterclass will equip you with the essential kitchen skills, and give you more confidence in the kitchen. To all the chefs and foodie people who have taught me something along the way, thank you, and to those who I will meet in the future, I look forward to tasting your food and listening to your stories. James CHAPTER 1 SOUPS, STEWS & PIES CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP (#ulink_0d0e06e8-7528-5196-8cc3-a70a5d5dd736) LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE (#ulink_ece7d400-d8eb-5aa9-9563-eac636f5e866) PISTOU SOUP (#ulink_17605e65-449c-5e51-8b0d-0edc5d4c0c54) CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES (#ulink_2053b9a9-5f20-56c7-a938-f47daaf3e2b9) MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS (#ulink_a772a185-20c1-50aa-950d-c104372127f6) CULLEN SKINK (#ulink_fb999c0d-350e-571e-80d1-81774eabbcbb) BEEF MADRAS CURRY (#ulink_3ec42196-eefb-508d-936e-7069d66e88c1) BEEF BOURGUIGNON (#ulink_f7205612-ec10-5e55-883a-966aed718aa2) COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE (#ulink_464cc185-4aa6-5933-a6b7-05c2ee2dac15) JAMES’S SHEPHERD’S PIE (#ulink_2555f1a9-0cc6-56ff-a059-06b7b10c470a) CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOM PIE (#ulink_1078912e-c77e-51b7-bbc3-643c572326ac) BEEF SHIN AND CARROT PIES (#ulink_e99d56f7-474f-583f-886d-86d4b2a697a0) SALMON AND MUSSEL PIE (#ulink_e4019b01-ca2a-5ab8-b276-2a2975e275bf) SCALLOP AND FENNEL PIES (#ulink_8e47f56c-046a-5c9c-b287-17f081c38ab5) CHICKEN CURRY (#ulink_e7bedec6-b59c-5098-be22-1ccdb4557a8f) CREAM OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP (#ulink_3fda6bc7-a2d7-5742-9e3d-e72a20c153bc) The texture of this soup is so velvety; it can be eaten simply as a snack but is also elegant enough for a dinner party. If you want to make it even more sophisticated, you can serve it with seared scallops. The use of curry powder with cauliflower certainly isn’t a new combination – it helps to offset the soup’s richness. The most important thing with this soup, however, is the cooking. You wouldn’t overcook cauliflower normally, so don’t do it when it’s in a soup. SERVES 4 VEGETARIAN 30g (1? oz) butter 1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed ? white onion, peeled and diced 225g (8oz) potatoes, peeled and diced ? tsp mild curry powder 75ml (3fl oz) white wine 750ml (1 pint 6fl oz) vegetable stock 1 large cauliflower, cut into florets 100g (3? oz) diced leek (white part only) 2 slices of white bread (crusts removed), cut into cubes 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 200ml (7fl oz) double cream Salt and black pepper 1. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and when it starts to foam, add the garlic and onion and fry, without browning, for 2–3 minutes. 2. Add the potatoes, curry powder, white wine and stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Add the cauliflower and leek and simmer for a further 6–8 minutes or until the cauliflower is just cooked. 3. Meanwhile, place a small frying pan over a high heat and saut? the bread in the olive oil for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then drain on kitchen paper and set aside. 4. Pour the cream into the saucepan and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool for 2–3 minutes. Transfer the contents of the pan to a food processor or blender and pur?e until smooth. Pour the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper. 5. Divide between bowls, then sprinkle with the cro?tons, drizzle with olive oil and serve immediately. LEEK AND ROCKET SOUP WITH GOAT’S CHEESE (#ulink_27c886f9-2625-5961-90f5-8ed54f353f89) This classic combination of flavours is a favourite of many. It’s important to pay close attention to the cooking time because if you cook the soup for too long you will lose the flavours and the colour. This soup is also good served cold, but it may be a good idea to add a little more liquid, as the texture tends to change and thicken as it cools. I like to use Mrs Wecksby’s goat’s cheese, or Perroche goat’s cheese from Neal’s Yard, but any other soft goat’s cheese will do fine too. SERVES 4 VEGETARIAN 1–2 tbsp olive oil 1 large potato, peeled and cut into small dice 1 white onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 sprig of thyme 2 leeks, trimmed and chopped 1 litre (1? pints) vegetable stock 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 100g (3?oz) rocket leaves Salt and black pepper TO SERVE 200g (7oz) soft goat’s cheese 1 sprig of chervil, chopped 1. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, pour in the olive oil and add the potato, onion and thyme, then saut?, without browning, for 2–3 minutes. Add the leeks and cook for 1 further minute. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. 2. Pour in the cream and bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Pour the soup into a blender and pulse until smooth, then add the rocket leaves and pulse again. Transfer the soup back into the pan and gently bring to a simmer, then season with salt and pepper. 3. Divide the soup between bowls, crumble over the goat’s cheese, garnish with the chervil and serve. PISTOU SOUP (#ulink_6bc8638e-c817-5bed-80b8-585d1090f25c) A great classic soup with pesto added right at the end, this is easy to make and nice as a starter or a simple snack. It’s definitely a summer soup and you should always use the very best fresh summer vegetables to give maximum colour and flavour. I mix and match the pasta, as it’s a good way to use up broken or leftover bits. The best pistou soup I have come across was in Nice. Not surprising when you consider that the ingredients in its famous Ni?oise salad are pretty similar to the ingredients for pistou. SERVES 6–8 11 plum tomatoes 100g (3?oz) frozen broad beans 4 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 1 leek, trimmed and diced 2 carrots, peeled and diced 2 courgettes, topped, tailed and diced 2 potatoes, peeled and diced 1 x 250g can of haricot beans, drained and rinsed 75g (3oz) dried spaghetti 75g (3oz) French beans, topped and tailed and cut into 4 pieces 100g (3?oz) frozen peas Salt and black pepper 1 handful of basil leaves, to garnish FOR THE PISTOU 60g (2?oz) fresh basil leaves 4 cloves of garlic, peeled 1 skinned, deseeded and chopped tomato (reserved from step 5) 75g (3oz) grated Parmesan cheese 135ml (4?fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil 1. Score a cross in the bottom of each tomato, place in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 45 seconds, then drain and peel off the skin. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, remove the seeds and chop the flesh. Blanch the broad beans for 2–3 minutes in boiling water, then refresh in cold water and peel off the skins. 2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and all the chopped and diced vegetables except the tomatoes and fry, without browning, for 4–5 minutes. 3. Add the haricot beans, fill with enough water to cover, and bring to the boil. 4. Meanwhile, wrap the spaghetti in a clean tea towel and crush it on the edge of a worktop, pressing it backwards and forwards to break it into small pieces, then add these to the soup. 5. Add all but one of the chopped tomatoes (reserving this last one for the pistou), bring back up to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until the pasta is cooked. After 10–11 minutes, add the French beans, broad beans and peas. (It’s best to add these at the end of cooking in order to preserve their fresh colour.) 6. While the soup is cooking, place all the pistou ingredients in a blender and pur?e to a paste. 7. Remove the soup from the heat and stir in the pistou. Season well with salt and pepper and serve straight away. CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH ROASTED VINE TOMATOES (#ulink_8514851a-c347-5955-ad0b-ed9013af1c2e) It was tomatoes that got me interested in food in the first place; as a kid, the smell of them growing in my grandad’s greenhouse intoxicated me. I still love them so much and the first thing I did when I last moved house was to build my own greenhouse in which to grow them. Every time I open the door the smell sends me back 30 years. For this soup, the tomatoes must be the best you can get, and vine tomatoes are ideal because they are usually the freshest. SERVES 4 VEGETARIAN 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) vine tomatoes 100g (3?oz) butter ? large onion, peeled and chopped 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 1 stick of celery, trimmed and chopped 2 tbsp tomato ketchup 2 tbsp tomato pur?e 1 sprig of thyme 200ml (7fl oz) double cream, plus extra to serve (optional) Salt and black pepper FOR THE ROASTED VINE TOMATOES 4 bunches of 3–4 small vine tomatoes 2–3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. 2. Remove the 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) of tomatoes from the vines and chop each tomato into 6, keeping the vines. 3. Melt half the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the onion, tomatoes, garlic and celery. Add the ketchup and tomato pur?e, cover with a lid and bring to the boil. 4. Strip the thyme leaves from the stalks and add the leaves to the pan, reduce the heat to a simmer, then place the vines from the tomatoes on the top, cover with the lid and simmer for 15 minutes. (Be careful not to let it boil, as the vegetables may catch on the bottom of the pan.) 5. Meanwhile, place the 4 bunches of small vine tomatoes (keeping them on the vines) on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil and the vinegar, season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 5–6 minutes or until softened. 6. Remove the lid from the saucepan, discard the vines and pour in the cream. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender and pulse until smooth, then pass though a sieve to remove the tomato seeds. Pour the soup back into the pan and reheat gently, trying not to let it boil, then season well with salt and pepper. 7. Serve the soup with a bunch of roasted vine tomatoes in the bottom of each bowl and, if you like, a spoonful of cream swirled on top of the soup. MUSHROOM SOUP WITH CORIANDER CRESS (#ulink_71326911-dec0-52d6-a4d5-7c8656f98121) I remember going mushroom picking in the New Forest when I was a junior chef. The head chef said it was an inspiring exercise – looking back now, I can see his point, but I also reckon it was cheap forced labour! Fast forward 20 years however, and I’m still doing it. Most recently I went with Nick Nairn up in Scotland. Rowing across the loch on our way to find mushrooms, neither of us exactly looked like Captain Jack Sparrow, but the treasure we came back with was much better than pirate gold – delicious fresh wild mushrooms with a great intense flavour. SERVES 4 1kg (2lb 3oz) field mushrooms 100ml (3?fl oz) rapeseed oil 2 large shallots, peeled and chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped Juice of ? lemon 500ml (18fl oz) chicken stock (#litres_trial_promo) 250ml (9fl oz) double cream 125g (4?oz) butter, diced 250g (9oz) mixed wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster) 5g (?oz) chervil, chopped 50g (2oz) coriander cress or micro salad leaves Salt and black pepper 1. Remove the stalks from the field mushrooms and, using a spoon, scrape away and discard the dark gills, then cut the mushrooms into slices about 5mm (? in) thick. 2. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, pour in half the rapeseed oil, then add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes or until softened. Add the sliced mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 3–4 minutes. 3. Stir in the lemon juice then pour in the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. 4. Transfer the contents of the pan into a blender and whizz to a smooth pur?e – this should take a good 2–3 minutes. Pour back into the pan, add the cream and mix thoroughly. Gently warm over a low heat, then stir in the diced butter, adjust the seasoning, if needed, and keep warm on the hob. 5. Pour the remainder of the oil into a frying pan over a medium heat and saut? the mixed wild mushrooms for about 3 minutes or until cooked through, then season and set aside. 6. To serve, divide the cooked wild mushrooms between bowls, ladle over the soup and sprinkle with the chervil and coriander cress or micro salad leaves. CULLEN SKINK (#ulink_cfc22484-bfca-574d-8e56-93e39d3cbc00) This Scottish soup from the town of Cullen in Moray is one of those great classic soups, with most of its flavour provided by the main ingredient – smoked haddock. Traditionally, it should be made with Finnan Haddie, which is smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen, but any other natural smoked haddock will do. SERVES 4 2 Arbroath Smokies 75g (3oz) unsalted butter 2 banana shallots, peeled and finely chopped 100g (3?oz) diced leek (white part only) 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 200g (7oz) waxy boiled potatoes, peeled 1 litre (1? pints) fish stock 100ml (3?fl oz) white wine 200ml (7fl oz) milk 125ml (4?fl oz) double cream Black pepper 2 tsp chopped chives, to garnish 1. Remove the skin and bones from the fish and flake the flesh. 2. Melt a third of the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, then add the shallots, leek and garlic. Cover the pan with a lid and sweat, without browning, for 5–10 minutes. 3. Cut the potatoes into 2cm (? in) dice and add to the vegetables, together with three-quarters of the flaked fish (reserving the remaining quarter for later). Cover again with the lid and cook for a further 2 minutes, then pour in the stock and wine. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 8 minutes. 4. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly before carefully transferring the mixture to a blender. Whizz for a few seconds, then add the milk and cream, a little at a time, and blend for 4–5 minutes or until the mixture is very smooth, then pass through a sieve into a clean pan. 5. Gently reheat then add the remaining fish and butter and season well with pepper. Divide between bowls, scatter over the chopped chives and serve with some warm crusty bread. BEEF MADRAS CURRY (#ulink_6682e145-0c64-525b-8c52-3eb7c8807484) I think India should be on everybody’s list of places to visit, to experience the amazing range of foods and the many different people who live there. This curry takes its name from the city of Madras, in the south of India. It can be made with most meats or it can also be vegetarian. As with most Indian dishes, there were many variations but this was my favourite, from a small caf? and just served with flatbread. I had the recipe translated into English so that you can enjoy it as much as I did. SERVES 4–6 800g (1? lb) stewing beef, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice 4–5 tbsp vegetable oil 1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped 1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped 2cm (? in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped 1 onion, peeled and finely sliced 12 curry leaves 3 cardamon pods, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 x 400g can of chopped tomatoes 200ml (7fl oz) beef stock 3 tbsp tamarind paste 25g (1oz) butter 25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped Salt and black pepper 1. For the madras curry powder, place all of the whole spices in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, or use a pestle and mortar, and grind to a fine powder, then mix with the ground turmeric and vegetable oil. 2. Next, season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large, non-stick saucepan and, over a high heat, sear roughly a third or a half of the beef pieces for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Fry the rest of the beef in 1–2 more batches, removing each batch from the pan when the meat is browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the remaining pieces, adding more oil as needed. 3. Blend the chilli, garlic and ginger to a paste using a hand-held blender or a pestle and mortar and adding a splash of water if necessary. 4. Place the pan used to seal the beef back over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and the onion and fry for 5 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add 3? tablespoons of the curry powder, along with the chilli, garlic and ginger paste, the curry leaves, cardamom and bay leaves, then stir the mixture well. FOR THE MADRAS CURRY POWDER 2 tbsp coriander seeds 2 tbsp fenugreek seeds 1 tbsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds ? tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 5 cloves 1 tbsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp vegetable oil FOR THE FRIED SHALLOTS 3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced 2 tbsp plain flour 100ml (3?fl oz) vegetable oil 5. Tip in the beef and cover with the chopped tomatoes, stock and tamarind paste, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until the beef is very tender. Alternatively, cook in the oven, preheated to 140C° (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours. 6. For the fried shallots, first dust the shallots in the flour. Place a frying pan over a high heat, pour in the vegetable oil and fry the shallots for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. 7. Remove the lid from the curry pan, stir in the butter and chopped parsley and season to taste. Spoon the beef on to plates with some of the crispy shallots on top and serve with some plain boiled rice on the side. BEEF BOURGUIGNON (#ulink_c46759ca-9a55-500c-8879-f2a7b012e290) Classic dishes shouldn’t be messed about with. Beef bourguignon is one of those classics and this recipe has come via the long road from my training days in France. In between the pints of French bi?re I got a lot of practice at dishes like hake beurre blanc, duck gizzards salads and lemon tarts, and of course this one. It’s still exactly the same as it was back then, just as it should be. SERVES 4 2 tbsp plain flour 1kg (2lb 3oz) braising steak, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice 4–5 tbsp olive oil 150g (5oz) pancetta, cut into small chunks 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 2 onions, peeled and sliced 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed 75ml (3fl oz) brandy 500ml (18fl oz) red wine 1 litre (1? pints) beef stock 1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley) 115g (4oz) baby onions 25g (1oz) butter Salt and black pepper 1. Season the flour with salt and pepper and toss the beef in it. Place a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and fry the beef for 1–2 minutes in batches, removing each batch from the pan when browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the rest, adding more oil as needed. (Too much meat in the pan at once will mean it takes longer to brown.) 2. Add the pancetta and fry for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown, then tip in the shallot, onions and garlic and fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until browned. Return the cooked beef to the pan and mix well with the other ingredients. 3. Pour in the brandy and carefully set it alight to burn off the alcohol, then add the wine and stock and bring to a simmer. Add the bouquet garni, then cover and cook on a low heat for 2 hours or until tender and thickened. Alternatively, cook in the oven at 140°C (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours. 4. Half an hour before the meat is cooked, blanch the baby onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then peel. Place a separate frying pan over a high heat, add the butter and a little olive oil and fry the onions for 2–3 minutes or until just golden, then add to the casserole for the last 20 minutes of cooking time. 5. Just before serving, check the seasoning. Spoon a generous portion of beef bourguignon on to each plate and a pile of Creamy Potato Mash (#litres_trial_promo) alongside, together with some green beans or Vichy Carrots (#litres_trial_promo). COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE (#ulink_19d033b6-b29a-5eab-abec-d335068543bc) Dorstone is a cheese I came across once at a farmers’ market, made by Charlie Westhead of Neal’s Yard Dairy. It’s an unpasteurised goat’s cheese made in Herefordshire, with a moist, fluffy texture and coated in ash. If you can’t get it, don’t worry; a non-chalky goat’s cheese will do fine, even a French Crottin. SERVES 4 2–3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling 4 courgettes, topped and tailed and sliced lengthways 1 x 250g jar of sun-blushed tomatoes, drained 2 banana shallots, peeled and chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled 6 large basil leaves, torn 200g (7oz) firm goat’s cheese, such as Dorstone or Ogleshield Plain flour, for dusting 200g (7oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry 1 egg, beaten Salt and black pepper ONE 25CM (10IN) OVENPROOF DISH 1. Preheat the oven 170°C (325°F), Gas 3, and oil the ovenproof dish with olive oil. 2. Lay the courgettes on a baking tray, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until they start to turn golden brown, then remove from the oven and allow to cool. 3. Place the tomatoes, shallots, garlic and basil leaves in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Add the baked courgettes and mix well, then crumble over the cheese and set aside. 4. On a clean, lightly floured work surface, lay out the pastry and cut out a circle 2cm (? in) wider all round than the ovenproof dish. Place the courgette mix in the dish, then brush the edges of the dish with some of the beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, pressing the edges of the pastry on to the rim of the dish. Trim away any excess pastry and brush the top of the pie with the remaining egg. 5. Bake in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown, then remove and serve immediately. JAMES’S SHEPHERD’S PIE (#ulink_623ef74d-451a-50a5-9fa7-2da254ccbda1) Who says British food isn’t great? I keep saying to people and young chefs that the best way to move forward in terms of cooking is often to look back. Shepherd’s Pie with garden peas is a dinner my mother used to cook all the time and still does. Look out for minced lamb that isn’t fatty as this will make it much better. And don’t put too much liquid in the mash or it will be too soft and the potatoes will just sink into the meat mixture. SERVES 4 1–2 tbsp olive oil 1.5kg (3lb 4oz) boneless shoulder of lamb 300g (11oz) baby onions, blanched and peeled (see method on page 20) 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 4 sprigs of rosemary 500ml (18fl oz) red wine 500ml (18fl oz) beef stock 75g (3oz) butter 25g (1oz) plain flour Salt and black pepper FOR THE MASH TOPPING 500g (1lb 2oz) large floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut into quarters 50g (2oz) butter 100ml (3?fl oz) whole milk 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Heat the olive oil in a large casserole dish, season the lamb with salt and pepper on both sides, then seal the meat all over on a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until nicely browned. 2. Remove the lamb from the pot and add the baby onions, frying these for 2–3 minutes or until golden, then add the garlic and 3 sprigs of rosemary. 3. Place the lamb back in the pot on top of the onions and rosemary, then pour in the wine and stock. Smear a third of the butter over the lamb and place the remaining rosemary sprig on top. Roast in the oven, uncovered, for 2 hours or until tender and crispy on top. 4. Meanwhile, make the mashed potato for the topping following the instructions for Creamy Potato Mash on page 179. 5. When the lamb is cooked, remove from the pot and strain the juices into a small saucepan set over a medium heat, keeping the onions for later. Mix the flour and remaining butter together to form a paste, then break into pieces and add to the juices in the pan, whisking until you have a thick gravy. Tear the meat into large chunks and place in the ovenproof dish. Add the reserved onions and pour over the thickened juices. 6. Put the mashed potato into a piping bag and pipe or spoon it over the meat and spread evenly with a fork. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown. Serve with purple sprouting broccoli and Vichy Carrots (#litres_trial_promo). CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOM PIE (#ulink_6b09a78c-453e-5deb-8dce-82918daf672a) You can make this chicken pie either with brown or white meat or a combination of both. The same goes for the mushrooms – use either fresh or dried or whatever you can get hold of. Porcini, ceps and morels are the classics to put with chicken, or for something different you could replace them with water chestnuts. Fresh tarragon is much better than dried for this recipe, but do remember that it’s a strongly flavoured herb, so don’t add too much. SERVES 6–8 375g (13oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry 1 egg, beaten FOR THE FILLING 1 x 1.5kg (31b 4oz) chicken 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp olive oil 75g (3oz) butter 2 tbsp plain flour 350g (12oz) wild mushrooms (such as chanterelle, cep, trompette, girolle or oyster) 150ml (5fl oz) white wine 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 4 sprigs of tarragon, leaves only Salt and black pepper ONE 20 X 30CM (8 X 12IN) PIE DISH OR OVENPROOF DISH 1. Place the chicken in a large saucepan with half the onions and the bay leaf. Season with a little salt and pepper and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. 2. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside to cool. Return the pan to the hob and cook the stock on a rapid boil for a further 30 minutes or until it has reduced by half. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the chicken legs, thighs and carcass, then place in the pie dish. 3. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas 7. Heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan, add the remaining onions and cook over a low–medium heat, without browning, for about 5 minutes or until softened, then add the flour. Turn up the heat then add the mushrooms and cook for a further 3–4 minutes. 4. Strain the stock, then add to the mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the wine and cream, then bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Season, then pour it over the chicken and sprinkle tarragon leaves over the top. 5. Cut out a disc of pastry 2cm (? in) wider all round than the pie dish. Brush the edges of the dish with beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, crimping the edges with a fork or your fingertips. Trim away any excess pastry and brush the top of the pie with the remaining egg. Place on a baking tray and bake for 30–35 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden. Then remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before serving with new potatoes and French beans. BEEF SHIN AND CARROT PIES (#ulink_6839679d-755a-51c3-a2c7-36516a55f43a) This pie is best made with Hereford beef, a breed that originated in the UK but is now farmed everywhere from Russia to South America. The cows have a deep red coat and fantastic horns, and their meat is highly prized. We use Hereford beef in the restaurant for our steaks, as the meat has an excellent grain. If you can’t find it, any breed will do, as it’s the long slow cooking that really gives this pie its flavour – the longer you cook it for, the better it will taste. I suggest serving the pie with French beans or shallots. SERVES 4 800g (1?lb) trimmed beef shin or flank, cut into 3cm (1? in) dice 2 tbsp plain flour 4–5 tbsp olive oil 30g (1?oz) butter 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed 1 tbsp tomato pur?e 200ml (7fl oz) Guinness 500ml (18fl oz) beef stock 1 tsp chopped thyme leaves 1 bay leaf 300g (11oz) small Chantenay carrots, trimmed and kept whole Salt and black pepper FOR THE PASTRY 225g (8oz) self-raising flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp salt 90g (3?oz) shredded beef suet 60g (2?oz) lard or butter, chilled and grated 1 egg, beaten FOUR 500ML (18FL OZ) PIE DISHES 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Lightly dust the meat with flour, salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan or saucepan, add the meat in batches, using more of the oil if needed, and seal over a high heat for 1–2 minutes or until nicely browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 2. Melt the butter in the pan, add the onion and garlic and fry for 2–3 minutes or until browned, then stir in the tomato pur?e. Slowly add the beer and stock, stirring constantly to prevent lumps forming in the cooking liquid. Add the thyme, bay leaf and browned beef, bring back up to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover with a lid and simmer gently for 2 hours or until the meat is tender. 3. After 90 minutes add the carrots and continue to cook for 30 minutes. Place in the pie dishes and leave to cool. 4. To make the pastry, mix the flour and salt with the suet and grated lard or butter in a large bowl. Mix in 150–175ml of water and knead for 1 minute or until you have a smooth dough. 5. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the pastry to about 7mm ( /3 in) thick and cut out 4 discs about 2cm (? in) wider all the way round than the pie dishes. Brush the edges of the dishes with a little beaten egg and lay the pastry on top, crimping the edges using a fork or with your fingers and trimming away any excess pastry, then brush the top of the pies with the remaining beaten egg. 6. Bake in the oven for 40–50 minutes or until golden, then serve with buttered mashed potato and French beans. SALMON AND MUSSEL PIE (#ulink_7782fe2b-807f-52dc-aa55-9fa61ff78e69) I tend to use mash on this seafood pie, because puff pastry doesn’t always cook properly. If you do prefer pastry though, you can substitute it, but don’t cheat and do that rubbish dry dustbin lid plonked on the top, I hate that! A pie should have the filling and top cooked all together, as it tastes so much better when made as a whole. You can also leave out the capers and gherkins if you want. SERVES 4 1–2 tbsp olive oil 500g (1lb 2oz) salmon fillet, pin bones and skin removed 1kg (2lb 3oz) mussels, cooked and removed from their shells 50g (2oz) gherkins, drained and chopped 25g (1oz) capers, drained 4 tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 4 tsp chopped dill 4 tsp chopped chervil 3 banana shallots, peeled and finely sliced 200ml (7fl oz) double cream Salt and black pepper FOR THE MASH TOPPING 500g (1lb 2oz) large floury potatoes, such as King Edward, peeled and cut into quarters 50g (2oz) butter 100ml (3?fl oz) whole milk ONE 20 X 30CM (8 X 12IN) PIE DISH OR OVENPROOF DISH 1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas 3. 2. Cook and mash the potatoes for the topping following the instructions for Creamy Potato Mash on page 179. 3. While the potatoes are cooking, place a non-stick ovenproof pan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and the salmon and seal on both sides, then bake in the oven for about 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely. 4. In a large bowl, mix together the mussel meat, gherkins, capers and herbs, then add the sliced shallots. Once the salmon is cool enough to handle, lift it from the pan and flake the meat into the bowl. (Some parts of the flesh may not be completely cooked but this doesn’t matter as it will be fully cooked in the pie.) Mix all this together, then stir in the cream, season with salt and pepper and transfer to the pie dish. 5. Put the mashed potato into a piping bag and pipe it over the salmon mixture or spoon the potato over the top of the fish mix and spread it out evenly with a fork. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes or until the top of the pie is golden brown. 6. Remove the pie from the oven and serve with Minted Peas (#litres_trial_promo). SCALLOP AND FENNEL PIES (#ulink_a19dbfa0-27e2-563b-b7d2-d3378fdfe452) Why use pie dishes when the scallop shells look just as good? The best scallops for this are of course hand-dived: they are better for the environment, as dredging destroys the seabed and also fills the scallops with grit. Some of the best scallops I’ve eaten were from Scotland’s west coast and from Ireland, but many are imported from America for some reason. Never freeze scallops, as they soak up water like a sponge and then when you cook them they dump all that water in the pan. MAKES 4 ‘PIES’ 4 large hand-dived scallops 1 fennel bulb 2 tbsp finely chopped chives 25g (1oz) butter 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 50ml (2fl oz) white wine 100ml (3?fl oz) double cream 100g (3?oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry 1 egg, beaten Salt and black pepper Coarse sea salt, to serve 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. Insert a sharp knife between the two halves of each scallop shell, then slice between the shells and pull them apart. Pull off the outer membrane and carefully remove the coral and white part of the scallop, dabbing them dry on kitchen paper. 2. Place the corals in a saucepan, add the top sprigs from the fennel bulb and half cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes. While the corals are cooking, clean and wash the scallop shells and, using a mandolin or a sharp knife, slice the fennel very thinly and set aside in a bowl with the chopped chives. 3. Melt the butter in a small frying pan and gently cook the shallot for 3–4 minutes or until softened but not browned. Add the white wine and drain the liquor from the cooked corals into the pan. Pour in the cream and bring to the boil. Boil until the liquid thickens, having reduced by about half, then season. 4. Place a pile of fennel and chives in each of the lower (more rounded) scallop shells, slice each scallop in half and place on top. Spoon over the sauce and cover with the top (flat) shells. 5. Lay out the pastry and cut into 4 strips each about 4 x 40cm (1? x 16 in). Using a little beaten egg, brush the edges of each pair of shells where they join and wrap a strip of pastry around the edges to seal the two halves together. Brush well with the remaining egg, then carefully place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, place on a pile of sea salt and serve. CHICKEN CURRY (#ulink_d69835de-f1c8-55c8-8430-0c449f084205) I’ve worked with many Indian chefs over the years and it has been a privilege to learn from them, as Indian food can be so complex. Yuri, one of my head chefs, is great at quickly knocking up a simple curry. This is a dish we used to make towards the end of a night’s service so that, after the guests had gone, the full team could sit down in the restaurant and dive in. SERVES 4–6 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground coriander ? tsp ground cloves 50g (2oz) plain flour 1 large chicken, cut into 10 pieces (see method on pages 62–3) 3–4 tbsp vegetable oil ? cinnamon stick 10 curry leaves 8 black peppercorns 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 tbsp peeled and grated root ginger 1 x 400ml can of coconut milk Salt and black pepper 1. Mix the ground spices and flour in a bowl and season with salt and pepper, then toss the chicken pieces in the spiced flour and set aside. 2. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat, add half the vegetable oil and fry the cinnamon stick, curry leaves and peppercorns for 30 seconds. Add the onion and ginger and fry for 5 minutes or until browned, then transfer to a bowl and put the pan back on the hob. 3. When the pan is hot again, pour in the remaining oil and seal the chicken pieces on all sides until browned. Add the onion and ginger back to the pan, stir in the coconut milk and simmer over a gentle heat for about 25–30 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. 4. Remove from the heat, taste for seasoning and serve. This dish is great with broccoli and rice or even chips. ‘Never hurry a good curry.’ VIVEK SINGH CHAPTER 2 FISH FILLETING A ROUND FISH (#ulink_dccc96ee-cf05-5eda-a148-308759d76d66) FILLETING A FLAT FISH (#ulink_c9a21ba8-4c08-5008-a7dd-a0b29d641310) SMOKED FISH P?T? (#ulink_18ba4d8b-2f60-529b-9460-1c908baa6eb2) BAKED ARBROATH SMOKIES WITH LEMON AND PARSLEY BUTTER (#ulink_d9295076-0ff0-50b8-bb0a-4a7b14c015fb) SESAME TIGER PRAWNS WITH SPICED CUCUMBER AND CORIANDER SALAD (#ulink_c6257efb-b7be-5738-953e-ab49b30d08c5) CHILLI SALT SQUID (#ulink_ac902767-02fc-5088-a5ad-2d3f149e4de9) CRAB WITH RAPESEED MAYONNAISE AND WATERCRESS (#ulink_869c20f0-70c9-5653-b48a-94463c0b1793) GRILLED BUTTERFLIED SARDINES WITH BLACK OLIVE AND HERB DRESSING (#ulink_0241b7ec-0bf8-517f-a32a-86ba538e3cc2) SALT-CRUSTED SEA BASS (#ulink_197a3a38-413e-5a56-9d94-0f829f43b42b) PROPER FISH AND CHIPS (#ulink_d6406c1c-95cc-5cb6-9d56-9cc91d365b2e) SKATE WINGS WITH BLACK CAPER BUTTER (#ulink_fa595edc-e160-5fab-841c-f0f09670030f) SAFFRON HADDOCK WITH CRUSHED POTATOES AND ASPARAGUS (#ulink_808bf19c-1782-5703-ad05-1138ed4ac4ad) FISHCAKES WITH BUTTER SAUCE (#ulink_b69d3047-30ac-55b7-aea4-ef7d42929eac) MISO-BLACKENED BREAM WITH CARAMELISED CHICORY (#ulink_d2e12b4e-4ceb-5ec7-a911-2b14d6e63d01) TROUT WITH FENNEL, BLOOD ORANGE AND ALMOND A?OLI (#ulink_911b4186-59c0-5b07-ac0c-89151ba8bfae) TERIYAKI MACKEREL FILLETS WITH WILTED SPINACH (#litres_trial_promo) STEAMED MUSSELS WITH CIDER, SPRING ONIONS AND CREAM (#litres_trial_promo) SALMON WITH SALSA VERDE (#litres_trial_promo) TANDOORI COD STEAKS (#litres_trial_promo) WHISKY-MARINATED SALMON WITH BEETROOT (#litres_trial_promo) FILLETING A ROUND FISH (#ulink_840c586d-7045-506f-82f0-e1f3127c531c) People often think there is a real art to this, and it can look much harder than it really is, especially when you watch a fishmonger do it. It’s all about practice, so have a go and start with mackerel, as it’s the easiest type to handle. Use a sharp knife – a filleting knife is best as it has a flexible blade. Whether the fish is small or large, it’s the same method, so once you’ve done it a few times you’ll start to get the hang of it. YOU WILL NEED * A round fish (such as mackerel) * Kitchen scissors * Palette knife or table knife * Filleting knife * Tweezers or small pliers 1. First remove all the fins with a sharp pair of scissors, cutting as close as you can to the body of the fish. Holding it by the tail and using a palette knife or the back of a table knife, scrape the fish from the tail end towards the head to remove the scales. Tilt the knife slightly as you do this, being careful not to tear the skin. 2. Wash off the scales and pat dry with kitchen paper. Using a filleting knife (or other flexible knife), cut diagonally behind the gill to the bone. 3. Turn the knife around so that it is facing the tail, then cut through so that the flesh is on the top side of the knife while the bone is touching the underside. Keeping the knife close to the bone, cut horizontally towards the tail and through the belly bones, then lift off the fillet and set aside. 4. Turn the fish over and repeat the process on the other side, then discard the carcass. (If you are filleting a non-oily fish, then the carcass can be reserved for making stock. The bones of oily fish are unsuitable for this purpose, however.) 5. Place the fillet skin side down with the fatter end facing you, then run your finger over the middle part. As you do so, you will feel the small pin bones, which can easily be removed using a pair of tweezers or small pair of pliers. Pull the bones towards you and discard. 6. Trim the edges of each fillet, removing any of the belly bones. Trying not to cut too much of the flesh away, cut the fillets into 150–175g (5–6oz) pieces and use as required. FILLETING A FLAT FISH (#ulink_b4f91bf2-0cf0-5db1-970c-feaa70c5d865) This requires a little more practice than the previous technique and it’s important you use the correct knife (with round fish you can get away with most sharp knives, but not for flat fish). A proper filleting knife is needed; it has a long flexible blade that enables you to cut through the fish keeping tight against the bones, leaving most of the flesh on the fillet and not too much remaining on the discarded skeleton. You can use a filleting knife for other jobs in the kitchen so a wise purchase won’t go to waste. Remember that there are four fillets on a flat fish (as opposed to just two on a round fish). YOU WILL NEED * A flat fish (such as sole) * Kitchen scissors * Filleting knife 1. Lay the fish on a chopping board with the head facing away from you, then trim the skirt or frill off the fish using kitchen scissors. 2. Using a filleting knife, cut around the head and discard it. Feel for the backbone down the middle of the fish and cut along it. 3. Starting at the head end of the fish and keeping the point of the knife close to the bone, carefully slice the fillet away from the bone, angling the knife towards the bone as you cut down to the tail, then lift off the fillet. 4. Cut away the other fillet and then turn the fish over and repeat the process. Retain the carcass (but not the head) for making stock. 5. To remove the skin, lay a fillet skin side down with the tail end facing you. Holding the tip of the tail with your fingers and angling the knife down towards the skin, start to cut the flesh away from the skin. 6. Keeping a tight hold of the skin and using the knife in a sawing motion, continue to cut, keeping the knife at the same angle and cutting as close to the skin as possible until all the skin has been removed. Repeat with the remaining fillets. SMOKED FISH P?T? (#ulink_c331dbca-aa5a-5dcd-9ae0-c19192386304) Fish p?t? is so easy to make – simply add cream and lemon to the picked meat and serve alongside warm toast for a great meal. I’ve made this one with Arbroath Smokies, but it can also be made from smoked mackerel. SERVES 4 2 Arbroath Smokies or cooked kippers, skin and bones removed Juice of 2 lemons 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 25g (1oz) chives, finely chopped Sea salt and black pepper FOUR 250ML (9FL OZ) RAMEKINS OR LITTLE POTS 1. Place the fish flesh in a blender and briefly pulse, then add the lemon juice and the double cream and pur?e to the desired consistency. (Don’t leave the machine running for too long, however, or the cream may split.) 2. Transfer the p?t? to a bowl, add the chives and season well. Divide between the ramekins or little pots and smooth over the surface. (If making these the day before, it is best to spread a little softened butter over the top of each one before refrigerating.) 3. Serve with warm slices of brown bread and a little dressed watercress on the side. ‘At the end of a long day a good chef might think about giving it all up and doing something else. Next morning he’d be marvelling at a sleek, silver, line-caught bass or sniffing a big bunch of basil or thinking how he was going to sear those scallops and serve them with Iberico ham and lentils for lunch. It’s not a perfect job, but what is?!’ RICK STEIN BAKED ARBROATH SMOKIES WITH LEMON AND PARSLEY BUTTER (#ulink_0f683877-e2e1-5557-bc21-3accc2463085) I first tried these little fellas at a Scottish coastal market. The Smokies are cleaned and marinated overnight in salted brine, then hot-smoked over a hardwood fire covered with wet sacks to stop the wood catching alight. They are a true delight served with butter. You need to get to the market early if you want one, as word gets around that they’re cooking and people follow the smoke like zombies. To beat the queue, you can buy them online. Iain R Spinks is the best supplier I know, give him a bell and you won’t be disappointed. SERVES 4 4 Arbroath Smokies 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve FOR THE LEMON AND PARSLEY BUTTER 250g (9oz) unsalted butter, softened Juice and grated zest of 3 lemons 3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley Sea salt and black pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas 7, and cut out four 30cm (12in) squares of greaseproof paper and four of newspaper. 2. In a bowl, mix together all the ingredients for the lemon and parsley butter, seasoning the mixture with 2 teaspoons of salt and some pepper. 3. Place a greaseproof paper square on top of a square of newspaper. Put a fish in the centre of the greaseproof square, then spread a quarter of the lemon and parsley butter over the sides of the fish and fill the cavity. 4. Fold in the edges of the paper, roll into a parcel and tie up with string. Repeat the process with the other 3 fish and place them on a baking tray. (At this stage you could place them in the fridge for 6–8 hours or until you need them.) 5. Before cooking, sprinkle the parcels with a little water and then bake in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve whole at the table with the lemon wedges and some slices of brown bread and butter. SESAME TIGER PRAWNS WITH SPICED CUCUMBER AND CORIANDER SALAD (#ulink_21066c6e-fad5-5a89-81ac-5b9db8c7a78b) This is such a simple dish, which uses pre-cooked tiger prawns and can be served hot or cold. There has been a lot of bad press about tiger prawns over the years and the exploitation of farmers in countries like Vietnam where there are produced. The prawns will say on the packet where they are from, so my advice is to look for Madagascan prawns, as they have a better history in sustainable prawn farming. Ones from Ecuador are fine too, and this is the only country where they are certified organic. SERVES 4 100g (3?oz) sesame seeds 3 tbsp English mustard 24 tiger prawns, peeled and heads removed 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely diced 50g (2oz) pickled ginger with some of its juice Grated zest and juice of 2 limes 5 tbsp olive oil 1 cucumber, peeled 25g (1oz) unsalted butter 1 fris?e lettuce Leaves from 25g (1oz) bunch of coriander 1. Spread the sesame seeds out on a plate and spoon the mustard into a bowl, then roll the tiger prawns first in the mustard and then in the sesame seeds, making sure that they are well coated, and set aside. 2. Place the chilli in a large bowl, then add the ginger and its juice, the lime zest and juice and 4 tablespoons of the olive oil and mix together well. Using a potato peeler, peel the cucumber into strips. (Don’t peel all the way down to the seeds – the core can be discarded.) Add the cucumber strips to the chilli mixture, then toss all the ingredients together. 3. Place a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, add the remaining olive oil and the prawns, frying these on each side for about 3 minutes or until golden brown. Add the butter and remove from the heat. 4. Break up the fris?e lettuce and add the leaves to the cucumber salad along with the coriander, toss together and divide between plates. Place 6 prawns on each plate, then spoon over some of the chilli and lime dressing and serve. CHILLI SALT SQUID (#ulink_05ca0e6f-710f-5270-8ca1-8a9b554e254a) It was in Singapore that I first tried chilli-flavoured food done properly, with their trademark dish, the chilli crab. The traditional method is to roll the fish and cook in sticky chilli sauce, but for this squid recipe I prefer to deep-fry it with cornflour dusted over the top to make it lovely and crisp. Alternatively, you could chargrill it without the cornflour or fry it in a hot pan, but whichever method you use, the squid needs to be cooked as quickly as possible for best results. SERVES 4 500g (1lb 2oz) squid, cleaned and tentacles removed 75g (3oz) cornflour 2–3 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil 3 spring onions, thinly sliced 1 red bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced Sea salt and black pepper FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE 150ml (5fl oz) rice wine vinegar 100g (3?oz) caster sugar 2 red bird’s eye chillies, thinly sliced 1 clove of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tbsp chopped coriander 1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped 1. To make the sauce, place the vinegar, sugar, chillies and garlic in a heavy-based saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens and a syrup is formed. Remove from the heat, add the coriander and shallot and set aside. 2. To prepare the squid, split each tube down the middle and lightly score the surface in a criss-cross pattern, then cut into 2.5cm (1in) pieces and dust with the cornflour. 3. Place a large, non-stick wok or frying pan over a medium heat, add a little of the vegetable or sunflower oil and, frying the squid pieces in batches and using more oil as necessary, cook for about 2 minutes or until golden brown, then remove from the wok or pan and season with salt and pepper. 4. Place the squid in a serving bowl, sprinkle over the spring onions, chilli and more black pepper and serve with the dipping sauce. CRAB WITH RAPESEED MAYONNAISE AND WATERCRESS (#ulink_ef38a5cd-7d64-5bdf-88f9-f793e0b2521a) Often (wrongly) described as the poor man’s lobster, I personally think the flavour of crab is far better than its expensive cousin. While crab has been eaten for thousands of years, rapeseed oil is much newer. Traditionally, rapeseed was animal food, or turned into Biofuel, but some clever dick decided to press the oil from this bright yellow flower and the result is brilliant for dressings and for cooking with. It’s also much cheaper than olive oil. Rapeseed oil gives mayonnaise a nicer flavour and colour than usual. SERVES 4 100g (3?oz) watercress 3 tbsp rapeseed oil 900g (2lb) white (or mixed white and dark) cooked crab meat (preferably Portland) or 1.3kg (3lb) cooked crab claws Salt and black pepper 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve FOR THE MAYONNAISE 3 egg yolks 2 tsp Dijon mustard 375ml (13fl oz) rapeseed oil Juice of 1 lemon 1. First make the mayonnaise. Whisk together the egg yolks and mustard very thoroughly in a blender or in a bowl using an electric beater or hand whisk. Add the rapeseed oil drop by drop to start with and then in a steady flow, and keep blending or whisking until the mayonnaise has thickened. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. 2. Place the watercress in a bowl, add the rapeseed oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss together and place some on each plate along with a pile of the crab meat or a pile of crab claws. Spoon some mayonnaise on the side and serve with a couple of lemon wedges. GRILLED BUTTERFLIED SARDINES WITH BLACK OLIVE AND HERB DRESSING (#ulink_f3fb681f-56a9-547a-8bf6-f176ff9a253b) Sardines must be the world’s most commonly eaten fish and every country seems to have a famous version. I first tried them in France, aged 14. Brittany is thought to be the place where canning sardines began, and there are still masses of canneries in the area. As with most oily fish, they’re best eaten as fresh as possible. The eyes should be bright and shiny, the gills a nice red colour and the skin not dry. Removing the bones and head is easy for your fishmonger to do and will save you a load of mess and fiddling about at home. SERVES 4 7 tbsp olive oil 12 sardines, scales removed (ask your fishmonger to remove the backbone and head) 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 2 shallots, peeled and finely diced 2 sprigs of thyme, chopped 100g (3?oz) mixed salad leaves Salt and black pepper FOR THE DRESSING 30ml (1?fl oz) red wine vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 50g (2oz) pitted black olives, cut into quarters 150ml (5fl oz) rapeseed oil 4 tsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tsp chopped chives 1. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil into a non-stick roasting tin and place the sardines on it, skin side up, then season with salt and pepper. 2. In a bowl, mix together the garlic, shallots and thyme with the remaining oil, then spoon over the top of the sardines and leave to marinate for 15 minutes. 3. Preheat the grill to medium or the oven to 170°C (325°F), Gas 3. 4. Place the sardines under the grill or in the oven and cook for 4–5 minutes, without turning. 5. While the sardines are cooking, make the dressing. Pour the vinegar into a bowl and add the sugar, allowing it to dissolve. Add the olives, rapeseed oil and herbs, mix together and set aside. 6. Arrange the salad leaves on individual plates, then remove the sardines from the grill or oven and place 3 on top of each portion of salad. Drizzle over the dressing and serve with crusty bread. SALT-CRUSTED SEA BASS (#ulink_008a6471-ca8c-5956-a2e6-4fdfeb77e793) You may look daft buying this much salt; people may think you’re stocking up for an icy garden path. Little do they know it’s actually for this dish, one of the best ways to bring out all the flavour of sea bass. If you can’t find good bass (they are farmed now, so generally not too pricey) you can use trout. It must be sea salt, not fine table salt – use that for the path and keep the good stuff for your food. Cracking the crust at the table is quite an event. The fish doesn’t end up tasting salty, it’s just pure, white, delicious flesh. SERVES 2 1.2kg (2lb 10oz) sea salt 3 egg whites 1 small bunch of dill, stalks removed and reserved, leaves chopped 1 x 750g (1lb 10oz) whole sea bass, gutted, scales removed and head and tail cut off Handful of edible seaweed 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas 6. 2. Place the sea salt in a large bowl and add the egg whites and chopped dill. Stuff the cavity of the fish with the reserved dill stalks. 3. Cover the bottom of a deep roasting tin with about one-third of the sea salt mixture and then scatter over the seaweed. Put the sea bass on top and cover with the remaining salt mixture, making sure the whole of the fish is covered, underneath as well as on top. Pat the fish down and then place in the oven to bake for 25 minutes or until the salt crust sounds hard when tapped with the back of a teaspoon. 4. Remove the tin from the oven and crack the salt crust to reveal the cooked fish – the skin should peel away easily. Serve with a salad of crisp lettuce leaves, such as Little Gem, tossed in olive oil and lemon juice. ‘James has a knack for making food and recipes that are positively inspirational.’ KEN HOM PROPER FISH AND CHIPS (#ulink_51bc3fe9-b699-57e6-bb74-367b8a88d0b1) If I were ever on Mastermind then I would choose this dish as my specialist subject! Over the years, I’ve sampled good and bad. I’ve travelled miles to get my hands on that crisp batter and pure white flesh, and once drove my team on a 500-mile round trip to prove that the best fish and chips were from my home county of Yorkshire. So this batter recipe is one that has been brought to you after eating many hundreds of fish and pounding thousands of miles, look after it and enjoy! SERVES 4 1.2 litres (2 pints) vegetable oil, for deep-frying 4 large peeled potatoes (about 1.5kg/3lb 4oz) 4 x 175g (6oz) fillets of cod, haddock or pollack, pin bones removed Salt FOR THE BATTER 225g (8oz) self-raising flour 1 tsp salt 15g (?oz) fresh yeast or 20g (?oz) dried yeast 2 tsp cider or white wine vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 200ml (7fl oz) beer 1. To make the batter, sift the flour and salt into a bowl and add the yeast, vinegar and sugar, then whisk in the beer and, once combined, set aside for 45 minutes to 1 hour to bubble up. 2. If using a deep-fat fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 95°C (200°F). Alternatively, fill a deep, heavy-based saucepan to one-third with oil and use a sugar thermometer to check that it has reached the correct temperature. (Take great care if using a saucepan: always watch over it and never fill it beyond more than a third as the hot fat may bubble up when the food is added.) 3. Trim the potatoes into rectangles, cut into slices 1cm (?in) thick, then cut again to give chips that are 1cm (?in) wide. Place the chips in the deep-fat fryer or saucepan and cook for 10 minutes. (It is very important to pre-cook them in this way to ensure that they are cooked through before serving. Frying the chips at this temperature will blanch them without browning.) 4. Check the chips are tender using the point of a knife, then remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. They can be left to cool on greaseproof paper and even chilled before finishing. 5. Preheat the oil in the fryer or pan to 190°C (375°F). Immerse the fish fillets in the batter, then carefully lower into the hot oil and cook for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper, then reheat the oil to cook the chips. 6. Lower the chips into the oil. These will now take only 2–3 minutes to become golden brown and crispy. Shake off any excess fat, or drain on kitchen paper, and sprinkle with salt before serving with the fish. SKATE WINGS WITH BLACK CAPER BUTTER (#ulink_ac745799-24dc-5c3f-a29a-20fc7c0a6221) This is one of the classic butter sauces; the trick is the get the pan nice and hot before adding the butter. Once the butter is brown, pull the pan off the heat, add the rest of the ingredients and serve straight away. This sauce can be served with all manner of fish and seafood, from salmon and trout to hake and prawns. I’ve chosen to put it with skate wings, which are attractive and a bit different to serve up to your guests. SERVES 2 2 x 225g (8oz) skate wings, skinned FOR THE COOKING LIQUOR 1 onion, peeled and chopped into 2cm (? in) pieces 2 sticks of celery, trimmed and chopped into 2cm (? in) pieces 250ml (9fl oz) white wine 75ml (3fl oz) white wine vinegar 2 bay leaves 10 black peppercorns Pinch of salt FOR THE BLACK CAPER BUTTER 100g (3?oz) butter 25g (1oz) capers, drained and rinsed 50ml (2fl oz) red wine vinegar 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 1. Place all the ingredients for the cooking liquor in a large saucepan, pour in 1.2 litres (2 pints) of water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. 2. Place the skate wings in the pan and continue to simmer slowly for about 10 minutes to cook the fish. Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift the skate from the pan, then drain on kitchen paper and place on a plate in a warm oven while you make the black caper butter. 3. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over a high heat, allowing it to foam and turn brown. Remove from the heat and add the remaining ingredients. Let the mixture fizz in the pan for a few seconds and then spoon over the skate and serve straight away. SAFFRON HADDOCK WITH CRUSHED POTATOES AND ASPARAGUS (#ulink_0d05ad7b-9b94-5fc4-ae96-2548887e16ce) Produced from the stigma of the crocus flower, saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. It takes some 70,000 flowers to make just half a kilo in weight of finished saffron. It’s used in Biryani, Pilaf and many desserts, but is perhaps best known for its use in the French bouillabaisse and Spanish paella. In the UK, it’s used in Cornish saffron cake. This recipe makes a light fish supper and the addition of saffron to the poaching liquid gives it a nice flavour, but be careful because too much will overpower everything else. SERVES 4 500ml (18fl oz) milk 2 good pinches of saffron 4 x 150g (5oz) natural smoked haddock fillets, pin bones and skin removed 400g (14oz) new potatoes, unpeeled 50ml (2fl oz) double cream 2 tbsp chopped chives 4 tsp chopped dill 20 asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off 25g (1oz) unsalted butter Salt and black pepper 1. Pour the milk into a roasting tin, add the saffron and place over a low heat to gently warm through and allow the flavour of the spice to infuse the milk. Add the haddock fillets and cook over a gentle heat for 3–4 minutes, then remove from the heat and leave the fish to sit in the milk until required. 2. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of salted water and cook for 20 minutes or until tender, then drain. While the potatoes are still warm, add the double cream and, with a fork, crush the potatoes but without mashing them, then mix in the chopped herbs, season with salt and pepper and set aside. 3. Bring another saucepan of salted water to the boil, plunge the asparagus in and cook for 2 minutes or until tender, then drain, add the butter and arrange 5 spears on each plate. Gently warm the haddock in the milk, place a spoonful of potatoes next to the asparagus, then lift the haddock from the milk, place a fillet on top of each portion of potatoes and serve. FISHCAKES WITH BUTTER SAUCE (#ulink_fca4927f-65bc-5f82-bdf3-fc440bcda5ac) A classic butter sauce is one of those recipes that, once you’ve mastered, you will use again and again. Yes, there’s a shed-load of butter, but it’s the richness that makes it go so well with all types of seafood. I remember I once spent two weeks just making this sauce over and over in the restaurant I was working in at the time. It was worth all that practice, as I use the same method even now. The sauce can be flavoured with all manner of ingredients from tomato to orange, just change the flavour to suit yourself. SERVES 4–6 300ml (11fl oz) milk 1 x 200g (7oz) natural smoked haddock fillet 1 x 225g (8oz) salmon fillet 115g (4oz) butter 350g (12oz) mashed potatoes (following method on page 179 but using no butter or cream) 2 small onions, peeled and diced 3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp chopped dill 150g (5oz) plain flour 2 eggs, beaten 150g (5oz) dried breadcrumbs, such as Japanese panko 2 tbsp vegetable oil Salt and black pepper FOR THE BUTTER SAUCE 150ml (5fl oz) white wine 250ml (9fl oz) fish stock 1 shallot, peeled and sliced 150ml (5fl oz) double cream 50g (2oz) butter, chilled and diced 2 tsp chopped dill 1. Pour the milk into a large saucepan, season with salt and pepper and place over a low heat to warm through. Poach the haddock and salmon in the milk for 3–4 minutes or until cooked through. Remove from the milk and allow to cool. 2. Meanwhile, melt 75g (3oz) of the butter in a small saucepan. 3. When the haddock and salmon are cool enough to handle, flake the flesh of each fish separately, discarding the skin and any bones. Place the haddock in a large bowl, add the potatoes, onions and melted butter and mix together. Add the salmon and chopped herbs and mix again until combined, but without over-mixing. Season with salt and pepper to taste, adding a little of the haddock poaching milk if the mixture seems too dry. 4. Divide the mixture into 4 equal portions, then shape into patties. Dip in the flour, the beaten eggs and finally the breadcrumbs and then chill in the fridge for 2 hours before frying. 5. Place a frying pan over a medium heat, add the vegetable oil and the remaining butter and fry the fishcakes on each side for 3–4 minutes or until golden brown. 6. While the fishcakes are cooking, make the sauce. Place the wine, stock and shallot in a saucepan and boil for about 5 minutes to reduce by half. Pour in the cream, bring back up to the boil, then remove from the heat and whisk in the diced butter. Stir in the dill, season with salt and pepper and serve with the fishcakes, spooning a little on to each plate along with a handful of watercress leaves or some wilted spinach. MISO-BLACKENED BREAM WITH CARAMELISED CHICORY (#ulink_9c5eec0b-ebad-5bb7-b634-bbc147cfbdf4) Miso is a Japanese paste made from soya beans fermented with rice or barley. You will find several varieties of miso in the shops – some are light in colour and some are dark. The darker the colour, the stronger the flavour tends to be so I use the lighter colours for a milder result. Combined with the rest of the ingredients, and used to marinate the fish, the miso will cause the fish to brown more under the grill. It should be cooked quickly and the blackened bits left on it, as they add to the flavour of the finished dish. SERVES 4 3–4 tbsp groundnut oil, plus extra for drizzling 4 x 125g (4?oz) black bream fillets (preferably Dorset bream), scales and pin bones removed 325g (11?oz) white miso paste 50ml (2fl oz) rice vinegar 50ml (2fl oz) mirin 50g (2oz) caster sugar 75g (3oz) mizuna leaves, to serve FOR THE CARAMELISED CHICORY 2 chicory bulbs, cut into quarters lengthways through the root 200g (7oz) caster sugar 2 tbsp olive oil 1. Preheat the grill to high. 2. Rub the groundnut oil into the bream fillets and set aside. Place the miso paste, rice vinegar, mirin and caster sugar in a large bowl and mix well, then immerse the bream in this mixture. Remove the fillets from the bowl, lay them on a baking tray and leave to marinate for 20 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, place the chicory and sugar in a separate bowl and toss together. Set a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, add the olive oil and the sugared chicory and allow to caramelise for 10–15 minutes or until golden brown all over. Remove from the pan and allow to cool slightly, then place on individual plates. 4. Place the bream under the grill and cook for 4–5 minutes. The marinade will start to blacken, but don’t be tempted to turn the fish over. To check whether the fish is done, gently press your finger into one fillet: if it penetrates, the fish is cooked; if not, return the bream to the grill for another couple of minutes. 5. Slide the bream from the tray and place on top of the chicory. Top with a few of the mizuna leaves, drizzle over a little of the groundnut oil and serve. TROUT WITH FENNEL, BLOOD ORANGE AND ALMOND A?OLI (#ulink_e49f85b7-663c-5eeb-bafe-f216bf2466fc) I always think trout is a fish that gets overlooked in shops and supermarkets. I love the stuff, either the big brown wild trout, or the farmed rainbow variety. This fish will take grilling, poaching or frying, and will stand up to quite strong flavours too, such as the fennel in this salad. Almonds are a classic accompaniment to trout and can either be toasted and added to the sauce, or sprinkled over the salad. SERVES 4 1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced Peeled segments and leftover juice of 2 blood oranges 4–5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 2 trout, filleted and skin removed 25g (1oz) unsalted butter 4 tsp chopped dill Salt and black pepper 100g (3?oz) micro salad leaves, to serve FOR THE A?OLI 15g (?oz) butter 50g (2oz) flaked almonds 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 4 tsp Dijon mustard 2 egg yolks 150ml (5fl oz) rapeseed oil 1. Place the sliced fennel in a bowl, add the orange segments and pour over the juice, season with salt and pepper, drizzle over half the olive oil and set aside. 2. Next make the a?oli. Melt the butter in a small pan set over a high heat, add the almonds and saut? for 2–3 minutes or until lightly browned. As soon as they turn brown, remove the nuts from the pan to prevent them burning. Конец ознакомительного фрагмента. 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