Grow Your Own Drugs: A Year With James Wong

Grow Your Own Drugs: A Year With James Wong James Wong James Wong is back, putting his ethnobotanical expertise to use once again, with over 100 new, natural, cheap and easy remedies, showing you and those around you how to have a fantastically healthy year.Whether you're fed up with your hormones, worried about your baby's nappy rash, your partner is prone to a sore-throat, or leg-waxing is proving just too expensive to maintain, Grow Your Own Drugs: A Year With James Wong offers over 100 great new remedies to soothe all manner of common conditions and beauty problems - whenever they might flare up.James shows how easy it to have access to the right ingredients whatever the weather, with his easy-to follow seasonal focus - whether you've got a window box, a roof terrace, a country garden (or a computer to order the goods online…). His seasonal planner takes you right through from Spring to Winter, making sure you know what to plant when, the best time to harvest and how to create your own mini-apothecary (or store-cupboard) at home.Packed with James's personal top tips and easy solutions for both growing and making remedies, this is your must-have companion to help ward off any ailments and complaints which might crop up throughout the year, the natural, James Wong way.FEATURES:• Over 100 new remedies• New seasonal guide - how to make sure you have all the ingredients you need for a healthy body and mind all year round• New non-gardener's guide: if you're not green-fingered or don't have a garden, James reveals how to identify plants and how to source good quality ingredients online• More about James’s personal inspirations: how he came to a career in ethnobotany, how he goes about living his own GYOD year and why a seasonal approach is important and easy to adopt• James's top tips and new gift flashes (perfect for cheap, thoughtful presents)• New case studies: how people who've tried and tested the remedies have got on• New HOME section: brilliant natural and cheap remedies for home life. Contains pet flea powder, horsetail metal polish, wood polish, carpet deodoriser Table of Contents Title Page (#u0cc96ff4-bfc3-58f4-b36a-481a97e13d41) PART 1 (#ue539f420-0904-4133-944c-ae19f45176b6) THE LIFE OF AN ETHNOBOTANIST! PART 2 (#u4ba203ac-a6db-4f63-8ae3-017cb9a063e9) THE BASICS: GROWING AND MAKING PART 3 (#u6a4dac20-e872-40de-9bf2-0bd1c73aecde) THE REMEDIES: TOP TO TOE CARE FOR A HEALTHY BODY DERMATOLOGICAL (#uce758147-e6f7-4030-8656-7031b6eb0edf) Remedies to try on skin complaints such as eczema, burns and bruises DIGESTIVE (#litres_trial_promo) Remedies to help settle indigestion, flatulence and other digestive complaints IMMUNE SYSTEM (#litres_trial_promo) Vitamin and mineral-packed ideas to help build your body’s defences against infection RESPIRATORY (#litres_trial_promo) Help minimize coughs, colds and flu with these respiratory-tract-focused fixes MUSCULAR AND JOINTS (#litres_trial_promo) Try these remedies if you’re suffering from rheumatism, arthritis or swollen, aching joints EMOTIONAL, HORMONAL AND HEADACHES (#litres_trial_promo) Remedies to help de-stress, boost your mood and libido, soothe period pain and rehydrate the morning after… COSMETIC (#litres_trial_promo) Treats to pamper yourself with KIDS (#litres_trial_promo) For when colds, colic, nits and warts strike! HOME (#litres_trial_promo) Natural ideas to keep your home (and pets!) clean and fragrant PART 4 (#litres_trial_promo) THE GROW YOUR OWN DRUGS YEAR SPRING (#litres_trial_promo) SUMMER (#litres_trial_promo) AUTUMN (#litres_trial_promo) WINTER (#litres_trial_promo) PART 5 (#litres_trial_promo) THE NON-GARDENER’S GUIDE & RESOURCES Index (#litres_trial_promo) Disclaimer (#litres_trial_promo) Acknowledgements (#litres_trial_promo) Copyright (#litres_trial_promo) About the Publisher (#litres_trial_promo) (#ulink_e0a0401b-a2a0-5908-a330-e50a99ae2465) 1 THE LIFE OF AN ETHNOBOTANIST! (#ulink_e0a0401b-a2a0-5908-a330-e50a99ae2465) ‘Ethnobotanist’ might not be the catchiest of job titles, and is guaranteed to incite confused looks on immigration forms, but though it sounds techy it describes what is – in my admittedly biased opinion – the most exciting, rewarding job in the world. Once you start thinking about plants as solutions to problems in life, not just as a colourful backdrop to it, then even the dullest supermarket car park, council roundabout or urban front garden is transformed into a repository of fascinating chemicals, with direct genetic links to peoples and far-flung lands all over the world. And the best thing about it is that everyone can take part, simply by sprinkling a couple of seeds in a pot, raiding the local hedgerows or even foraging the shelves of the local supermarket. Whether we know it or not, we rely on plants to provide almost everything around us: the food we eat, the clothes we wear, the medicines we take and – without sounding too eco about it – the very air we breathe. A leaflet from the Eden Project has a wonderful way of putting this: every material thing that is not mined, it says, is grown, a point that makes the relevance of plants to everyday life suddenly very clear. How exciting, how adventurous it is to discover for the first time the great impact plants have on us all. With so many of the big questions in life now answered, the wildernesses mapped and the mysteries solved, the amazing, undiscovered uses of plants seem to me to be one of the last great fields of exploration. Even after centuries of study, we still don’t know exactly how many plant species exist, and with the best estimates hovering at over 300,000, there is no end to the potential for them to shock, surprise and delight us. There is a tendency to think that the use of plants for medical purposes is something from history, making for an interesting anecdote rather than cutting-edge science. The reality could not be further from the truth. The world’s largest and most lucrative pharmaceuticals market is the United States, where 70% of new medicinal drugs have been developed from natural sources. It is clear that we as a species are as reliant on the world of plants as we have ever been: plants are being used to create space-age plastics, ozone-saving biofuels, living pumps for drawing toxins out of soils contaminated by industry, and even giant underwater islands of seaweed to protect tropical coasts from tsunamis. Far from being over, our relationship with plants has only just begun. And here’s the great news: to take part in the revolution, all you need is a bit of earth, a pack of seeds and a tiny bit of know-how. You don’t even need a garden: the concoctions won’t mind where you source your ingredients. The backyards of friends and neighbours are my favourite source for botanical raw material; you’ll be surprised how generous people will be when promised a jar of sticky sweet winter tonic or fragrant body scrubs in return for a few leaves and twigs. Newbies need not worry too much, either: simply follow a few hard and fast rules and make sure you know what you are picking and how to use it. In this book, I hope to provide you with a complete tool kit that will get you off to a great start. Before you know it, you’ll be tinkering away like a botanical Willy Wonka, mixing, matching and creating all manner of homespun goodies from the plants growing all around you. Good luck – and have fun! (#ulink_ca6b56be-9c30-5b89-8f76-6974708d4100) 2 THE BASICS: GROWING AND MAKING (#ulink_ca6b56be-9c30-5b89-8f76-6974708d4100) If some glossy cosmetics ads with their slick marketing spiel are to be believed, the makers of natural remedies must trek up the Amazon to find the rarest botanical ingredients, then prepare them in state-of-the-art laboratories belonging to huge Swiss institutes. So it is entirely understandable why so many people are daunted just by the idea of making home remedies. Fortunately, the romantic stories of marketing men, though they might make for beautiful TV adverts and entertaining reading, are very far from the truth. More than three-quarters of the world relies on plants as the primary form of healthcare, and plant-based remedies have evolved as cheap, simple and easy-to-prepare solutions for people with very little time, resources or money. It is for this reason that I passionately believe plant-based remedies to be as relevant for our society as they are for shamans in the Andes or farmers in Malaysia. The average kitchen in the United Kingdom is infinitely better equipped than my gran’s back in Borneo, where she would effortlessly whip up all manner of lotions and potions in mere minutes, from what were effectively the hedge trimmings out of the back garden. With mod cons like blenders, microwaves and dishwashers at our disposal, it is much quicker and easier for us to rustle up a recipe – no matter how domestically challenged we think we are. In this section I reveal a few tricks of the trade, which I hope will help demystify the growing side of things, and a couple of simple rules to ensure flawless concoctions every time. It never fails to surprise me how many people seem utterly convinced they have some kind of superhero-like ability to kill plants. Please don’t worry: pruning techniques needn’t be perfect, and cultivation doesn’t need to be absolutely spot on to get a plant to thrive well. In fact, to my mind the single most important rule in gardening, and one which is hardly ever mentioned, is that it is in a plant’s own interest to grow. Plants have been around for millions of years without any help from humans and have independently evolved a huge range of ingenious strategies to cope with even the harshest conditions. As long as you place them in an environment that roughly matches the conditions they originally come from, they honestly are quite happy to take care of themselves – with little or no intervention from green (or not so green) fingers. In this section, I outline exactly how to identify your garden type – trust me, this is much more straightforward than it sounds! – and which plants are most likely to succeed in the conditions you have. If you get these two bits right, that’s half the battle won. As for herb plants, it’s a wonderful coincidence that these happen to be the easiest of all plants to grow. Having originally evolved as weedy species that spring up on any piece of disturbed ground, they are perfectly happy to put up with all kinds of punishment, with many thriving on pure neglect. If you’ve ever planted mint, lemon balm or feverfew, for example, you’ll know that as soon as they’re in the ground they spread rampantly, colonizing any bare earth and even cracks in the pavement. They won’t need anything more than the occasional hacking back, giving you limitless handfuls for flavouring foods, concocting remedies and crafting cosmetics. To transform your backyard clippings into a whole range of natural remedies, I also hope to demystify words like ‘tincture’, ‘decoction’ and ‘salve’, showing you how these can all be knocked up with only a few minutes’ effort, with results rivalling anything to be found on the shelves of even the most upmarket health food shops and cosmetics counters. GROWING GROWING YOUR OWN PHARMACY If you’ve never made a recipe in your life before, this book is a great place to start. And if you’ve never grown a plant before, even better. I want to cast away the dusty stereotypes that too often surround gardening, and in particular herbal remedies, and show you just how easy it is to get out there and start cultivating your very own living pharmacy – even if you are convinced you are a non-gardener. With just a couple of clippings from your backyard, you can create simple remedies for everyday ailments, spa-like beauty treatments and other practical products that bring a shine to furniture, scent to your home, or even get rid of your cat’s fleas. Nowadays, getting hold of medicinal plants and seeds is becoming ever easier. Even the most run-of-the-mill garden centres now stock a surprisingly broad range of the plants you need for just a couple of pounds. More than just the traditional parsley, sage and thyme, too: even my local high-street florist sells such weird and wonderful things as blackcurrant-scented sage, pineapple mint and Japanese wasabi plants (the source of the spicy green paste that accompanies sushi). Of course, once you have many of these planted up in your garden or window box, they often spread themselves all over the place via underground runners or seeds, popping up in even the most unexpected of places. But the most exciting thing about medicinal plants is that so many of these are common culinary ingredients: you need only look at the back of your refrigerator or spice rack for the plants you need. Simply pop a leftover stick of lemongrass in a glass of water on a window sill, or sprinkle a couple of grains from that jar of fennel seeds in a pot of compost, and in just a couple of months you will have a supply of fresh, organic, air mile-free ingredients for all sorts of remedies. The tricky thing about so much choice, however, is that it can seem enormously daunting for a beginner. Where on earth do you start? The best way to simplify the whole business is just to pick plants that are useful at treating the afflictions you are prone to (see here (#u54af97b4-7bf8-4827-b764-ea038a7aa254)) and which have a scent or flavour you like. As there is almost always a selection of several different plants that share similar properties, you have the luxury of picking and choosing whichever one(s) you like the most for a particular ailment. Now, if you have never tried angelica, tansy or lemon balm before, let alone know what they look like, I have a simple recommendation: look round your local public botanic or herb garden; you’ll find it’s a great source of ‘scratch and sniff’ inspiration. Walking beside the beds and borders, you can get to know the look, smell and habit of plants you may otherwise have only read about in books or seen on TV, with neat little labels to guide you along the way, to decide which you like best. My favourite such garden is the Chelsea Physic Garden, just down the road from me, amidst the hustle and bustle of central London. It’s hidden behind high walls, and you’ll think you’ve stumbled across a small piece of undiscovered land, though it’s actually been a virtual theme park for medicinal plant enthusiasts for more than three centuries; it was set up in 1673 to teach the doctors of the Royal Hospital, at a time when botany was a necessary part of medical training. Here, little labels dot the borders and, in true Harry Potter style, explain the plants’ uses – ‘once used by the Aztecs for dye’, for example, and ‘used to treat malaria’. By keeping your eyes out at local gardens like these, you can pick up invaluable tips on what will grow well in your own backyard. If you spot a creeper thriving on a south-facing wall, for example, it is likely to do the same in a similar site at home for you. Conversely if you see a bush looking a bit forlorn in a boggy patch, you might want to think twice about planting it around your pond at home. This way, you are learning from the experiences of others; think of it as horticultural espionage. I am passionate that plant-based medicine is so much more than its stereotype – a bit namby pamby, a bit hippy-ish. It deserves more respect than that: many contain powerful chemical ingredients and should therefore be treated fwith as much respect as conventional drugs. Plants can genuinely be a useful way to treat all sorts of minor, everyday complaints, but it is vital that you first receive a professional medical diagnosis, especially if you have an underlying medical condition, are taking medication, or are pregnant. Ifyou think you may be sensitive to any of the ingredients, do a 24-hour skin test first to check for allergies. It is also important to use common sense when using plant-based remedies: don’t give any of the remedies to children under the age of 2, or to children under 16 unless specified as safe in the recipe. (See also the special section for ‘Kids’, see here (#litres_trial_promo)). But enough of that. Let’s get started. Your own living pharmacy is just a few steps away. GROWING: IDENTIFY YOUR GARDEN TYPE I’ve never been a slave to strict horticultural rules & regulations. That said, the textbooks do have some good advice; the most important point to note is that you should spend a little time in getting to know your site. To put it simply, if you understand the growing conditions of your site and pick your plants accordingly, gardening can be transformed. A never-ending labour and struggle against nature becomes a simple matter of a splash of water now and again as you pop out to forage in the flower border. In this section, I outline how to determine the specific conditions of your own site, be it rolling estate or window box, and show you how to work with, not against, your local conditions to get the best possible results. Your garden’s microclimate Probably the single most important factor that influences what will grow best in your site is its climate. Each plot – no matter how small – has its own unique microclimate. We may all complain about the British weather – and let’s be fair, it isn’t exactly southern California – but the United Kingdom nevertheless has the mildest climate of any place at an equivalent latitude either side of the Equator. This enables us to grow an enormous range of plants, which gardeners in many other parts of the world can only dream about. Why? Well, here comes the science: this unusual climate is produced because our weather is heavily influenced by the warm Gulf Stream current that flows up from the tropical Atlantic, bathing our island in a blanket of mild, wet air. This protects us from the harsh winters experienced by continental cities such as Moscow, but also gives us soggy, mild summers for which we are world-renowned. The further west you go in the country, the stronger the influence of this system, which is why most of Cornwall, south-west Ireland and western Scotland are so well suited to growing subtropical species like sun-loving acacias and lush tree ferns. Interestingly, the natural ecosystem of much of these regions was once temperate rainforest, much like that covering New Zealand, Chile, south-west China and the western coast of North America. Picking plants native to the mist-shrouded forests of these regions makes an excellent bet if you live out west. On the flip side of things, the further east you go, the more the climate is influenced by the continent. Without the mediating force of the Atlantic, there are much wider extremes of temperature. Summers here are sunnier and drier, but winters are colder – with the possible exception of London, which has a unique climate all of its own. Like most big cities, London’s urban sprawl traps heat and releases it slowly at night, which means it rarely – if ever – suffers major frosts, the centre being several degrees warmer than the surrounding countryside. With its comparatively low rainfall and greater amount of sunlight, the east and particularly the south-east is a good place to grow drought-tolerant, Mediterranean-type species since it has a broadly similar climate (more or less; I’m allowing myself a little artistic licence). Interestingly, the north-south divide is far less pronounced in our small island; there are warmer summers the further south you go, but that’s about it. In this section, I describe four specific types of microclimate that are typical of gardens in the United Kingdom, and suggest the kinds of plants that are suited to each. These are, of course, just examples; you may have a site that is exactly the same as one of the types described here, but the chances are that it is a combination of two or more. As in those magazine personality tests, there are no hard-and-fast rules, but identifying roughly the type of plot you have will make gardening a whole lot easier. Type 1 – City-centre gardens and the far south-west It might sound strange to lump the gardens of urban Hackney estates and quaint Cornish cottages together in the same category, but there is method to my madness: city-centre spaces and the far south-west enjoy similar growing conditions – some of the best in the whole country, in fact. City-centre gardens are often considerably warmer than those of the surrounding countryside, the concrete jungle acting as a giant heat trap to shake off frost. The larger the city, the warmer its centre, which means that all over central London subtropical trees like avocados and citrus are a plausible option for die-hard exotic fans like me. The same concrete ‘hot-water bottle’ phenomenon applies to the domestic garden too: the closer a plant is positioned to a large wall (particularly a sunny south-facing one), the greater the protection it has from the cold. This is a trick that has been used since Victorian times to improve the growth of semi-tropical plants and even boost fruit and flower production on entirely hardy trees. The only key difficulties here are the size of plot needed – growing a 30m eucalyptus tree may not be very practical – and the potentially hazardous effect caused by very high pollution. A fact not often mentioned is that plants can absorb the toxic heavy metals from exhaust fumes, which are then concentrated in their tissues. Because of the potential effects of these, avoid eating plants that have been grown in extremely heavily polluted areas (close to a six-lane motorway, for example). Common sense is always the best rule of thumb; most urban dwellers are fine to get growing and eating. In the far west and south-west of the country, similar conditions are achieved without the need for urban sprawl, and the extra rainfall and air humidity combine to create almost greenhouse-perfect growing conditions. This means that gardens abandoned for decades – such as the recently restored Trebah Gardens and Lost Gardens of Heligan – thrived for close to a century with almost no intervention from gardeners, though they were buried beneath a thorny forest of brambles. If there were only a Chinatown nearby, I’d be moving straight away! In these conditions, you can grow the widest range of plants in the country, so you can pretty much take your pick. Gardeners on these sites are at a great advantage for growing tender species that would be impossible to grow anywhere else, and they also have the ideal conditions for growing most species native to the United Kingdom. The small handful of species that are at a slight disadvantage here are species that require frost to produce a good crop, such as blackcurrants and gooseberries. Luckily, these are few and far between. Type 2 – Blustery hilltop spaces Apart from the chance of having an amazing view from your deck chair, a hilltop garden can be a mixed blessing. Situated above the shelter of trees, buildings or indeed other hills, these gardens can suffer from strong winds, which can damage plants, either directly or by drying out the soil. The latter can exacerbate the tendency for hilltop gardens to be rather dry anyway, as rainfall drains quickly off these high places. In these conditions, delicate-leaved or moisture-loving plants (such as weeping willows) are unlikely to fare well. On the other hand, drought-tolerant, hard-leaved species (such as rosemary, lavender and thyme) will really shine. The good news for hilltop gardeners is that many of the most common medicinal plants come from Mediterranean climates, which means they thrive on dry soil and will cope well in windy conditions. In situations such as these, protection from winds can radically improve growing conditions, and can be as simple as putting up a slatted fence or even just planting a simple evergreen hedge. Either solution will lessen the impact of wind damage and, in doing so, allow a much broader range of plants to be grown. Digging a bit of organic matter (such as compost, leaf litter, even leftover vegetable peelings which have been rotted down in a compost bin) into the soil can greatly improve its ability to retain water on dry hilltop sites, the organic fibre acting exactly like a sponge. It is not all bad news, however. Counterintuitive though this may seem, hilltop sites often enjoy far less cold and fewer frosts than surrounding gardens. The reason is simple: cold air sinks, meaning that wintery air drains freely off gardens on elevated sites and whisks away the chances of frost as it goes. If the garden is in the south of England, or even just faces south, this effect is even greater. Of course, if the hill we are talking about is of Alpine proportions these benefits start to diminish, but for most hills under about 400m above sea level (which is pretty high by UK standards) there is a definite benefit. Type 3 – Lowland frost pockets As mentioned above, dense cold air has a habit of running downhill, and if you live at the bottom of a hill, the accumulation of this chilly air can create intensely frosty conditions. This is particularly true in valleys and ditches, where frosts often arrive earlier and end later, making winters not only colder but also in effect making them last longer. This means that many of the more tender plants can find it difficult to survive in these areas. Rest assured that British native species – perfectly adapted to freezing cold winters – will grow away as if nothing ever happened. Every cloud has a silver lining, however. Lowland frost pockets are often sheltered from the full effects of strong drying winds and are also less likely to suffer in times of drought – water, like cold air, flows downhill. This makes them a great place to grow hardy, moisture-loving species like marshmallow, willow, cranberries, angelica, meadowsweet, watermint and comfrey (great for making organic fertilizer). Type 4 – Seafront sites As the palm trees (Phoenix canariensis, Trachycarpus fortunei, Chamaerops humilis) that increasingly line seaside resort promenades attest, coastal gardens enjoy mild, sometimes even frost-free winters. Generally, the closer they are to the sea, the lower the chance of frost. They also have the rather dubious honour of being amongst the wettest places in the United Kingdom (with the exception of coastal Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex and Kent), but from a gardener’s perspective this does mean very little watering is ever necessary. They also tend to be relatively well drained because most coastal sites have a sandy, friable soil, which means this extra rainfall does not result in the waterlogged soil that so many medicinal plants, and particularly herbs, hate. These wonderfully mild conditions do come at a price, however, in the form of the huge gusts of salt-laden winds that blow in off the sea, especially in the winter months. Such winds can have a particularly damaging effect on plants, particularly soft, leafy species. Despite this, and with a few cleverly planted trees or hedges to act as windbreaks, you can create a space that enjoys the best of both worlds: mild, moist conditions sheltered from the full force of the winds. Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens on the south coast is a perfect example, where a dense barrier of evergreen trees have created a sheltered microclimate with stunning results. Soil science Apart from planting wind breaks or creating heat-retaining walls, there is not an awful lot you can do to significantly change the climate of your site (short of building an enormous Eden Project-style dome over it). You can, however, radically improve your growing conditions – by improving your soil. Soil quality has a direct impact on the health of your plants. By making small adjustments to this, you can dramatically change not only how well your plants grow but even which species it is possible to grow on your site. To improve it, you first need to figure out what kind of soil you have, and the good news is you don’t need a ‘CSI’-style lab to analyse it. Just grab a handful of soil on a dry day and give it a good squeeze. Then ask yourself: A Does the soil break up easily, feel a bit gritty, and filter through your fingers? B Does the soil clump together, look slightly shiny, and roll easily into a firm sausage shape? C Does the soil roll into a loose, fragile, sausage shape? A It’s sandy soil Many Mediterranean-type herbs and plants (fennel, lavender, lemon verbena, olive, rosemary, scented-leaved pelargoniums, thyme) thrive on this kind of soil because it is as close as possible to that of their native environment, to which they are perfectly adapted. Being wonderfully free-draining, this type of soil does not suffer from waterlogging and is extremely well aerated. While many plants love this soil, there is a major down side to its open, friable texture: water and nutrients tend to drain straight through it. This means that it can often hold too little of these essential elements to support the healthy growth of many species that aren’t specifically adapted to cope in these harsh conditions. There is, however, a very simple way to greatly improve the water- and nutrient holding capacity of sandy soil: every year, apply a good layer of organic matter (compost, leaf litter, well-rotted manure or even just leftover vegetable peelings which have been rotted down in a compost bin). This organic matter acts like a sponge to retain water and the nutrients dissolved in it, and make it available to the roots of plants. If you want to, feel free to dig the matter in, but this is not strictly necessary. (If you’re wondering why, see ‘To dig or not to dig’ below for a full explanation.) B It’s clay soil When the tiny particles of clay meet water, they stick together, making this soil clumpy and heavy. This makes it far superior to sandy soil in terms of its excellent water- and nutrient-retaining properties, but its dense, pastelike consistency can restrict the flow of air to, and the uptake of nutrients by, the plant’s roots. Many half-hardy plants that do not survive the winter are not necessarily the victims of the cold itself but instead succumb to the stifling effects of waterlogged soil, which cause bacterial or fungal infections that rot the roots. Clay soils also have a tendency to bake rock hard in hot, dry summers, just like pottery in a kiln, leaving your plants struggling to grow in what is almost a natural concrete. Just like sandy soil, the addition of organic matter every year will greatly improve the condition of heavy clay soil. Here the fibrous texture of organic materials like compost or leaf litter opens up the soil structure and allows air in. Additionally, digging in some grit or horticultural sand will break up the heavy clods to improve drainage. (Whatever you do, though, please don’t use builder’s or beach sand, which contain plant-damaging lime or salt.) You’ll find that the soil becomes freer-flowing and less likely to waterlog, with a texture more like the topping of an apple crumble than dense cookie dough, which gives plants a far better chance. C It’s loamy soil Congratulations! You have the soil type that all other gardeners want, the perfect mixture of water- and nutrient-retaining clay and friable, well-drained sand. You get different variations of this (more clay than sand, more sand than clay), but on the whole this soil is ideal for growing the widest range of plants. Having said this, excellence can always be improved upon, and (again) this is achieved by piling on the organic matter every year to keep the nutrient levels high. To dig or not to dig? The first point to note is that garden compost, leaf mould, well-rotted manure or other bulky fertilizers are all considered to be organic matter; granules, pellets or liquid feeds aren’t. Now, adding organic matter to soil aerates and enriches it, but there is a big debate about whether you should dig it in, or just leave it on the surface and let the worms do the work for you. Being a resolutely lazy gardener, I prefer the second option. Shovel on a load of organic matter in autumn, then leave it over the winter. By next spring the worms will, hopefully, have worked their magic, though you can lightly fork it in then if it’s still clumpy. If you opt for the no-dig approach, you have the added bonus of using the compost layer as a mulch before the worms get to work. This will keep weeds down and moisture in – as well as saving you from a bad ‘digging’ back and blisters! The no-dig approach also means that you can actively improve your soil without damaging the roots of existing plants as you thrust in the spade. In my opinion, albeit very biased, this makes the choice between the dig and no-dig options a real no-brainer. Heavy clay soils do, however, need a bit more attention: worms may draw organic matter from the surface and incorporate it into the soil, but they will not do the same with the grit or horticultural sand that are vital to improving drainage. The good thing is that you need to dig in the grit only once and it is there for life, so an hour or two of manual labour should transform your soil forever. You could theoretically do this at any time of year, but I reckon the best time to do this is autumn in order to prevent damage to the roots or shoots of plants that are actively growing. Annuals and perennials This is a bit of geeky, but really important, gardening terminology describing the lifespan of a plant – and thus determining how often you’ll need to plant it. An annual plant, as its name suggests, grows from seed, flowers, sets seed and dies all in one year. A perennial grows, flowers and sets seed year after year without dying. (‘Biennials’ such as mullein, meanwhile, have a lifespan of two years. Growing from seed one year, then flowering, setting seed and dying the next.) In general, perennials can be a little less work, as you do not have to sow them from seed each year. Instead, they keep growing year after year. Having said that, there are many annuals, such as sunflowers or borage, which happily sow their own seeds around your garden. This may create a lovely naturalistic effect or end up being a nightmare when they pop up everywhere! A little judicious weeding is neededwhere space is at a premium, but you can always pot up the seedlings and share them with friends. Perennials, meanwhile, form larger clumps each year, which can be divided and moved in autumn or winter to increase plant numbers. Organic fertilizers Fear over the potentially harmful effects of chemical fertilizers has created a huge interest in organic fertilizers in recent years. To my mind, the benefits of organic fertilizers stretch far beyond avoiding chemical residues, though. While you can buy pelleted organic chicken manure and seaweed fertilizers in almost every garden centre these days, why not go down the no-cost route by picking up well-rotted manure from a local farmer or stables? Both are often more than happy to get rid of the stuff. You can even make your own organic fertilizer by starting a compost heap or bagging up leaf mould in big black bin bags (leave for a year or more to rot completely). Many local councils offer free compost when using council recycling schemes. (You drop off some cans or bottles for recycling and get bags of free compost in exchange – now that’s a good deal!) If you live near the coast, you can scatter pieces of seaweed, collected from coastal walks, over the surface of your soil too; just be sure to rinse them first to wash of any salty residue, which could damage the plants. With so many organic fertilizers often being free to make and source, not to mention easier to apply (you don’t have to calculate dilution rates, for example) and often more eco-friendly, what reason is there for not giving them a go? Maintenance If you are picking leaves regularly for use in remedies, there is little other maintenance required, apart from an occasional watering and a bit of weeding to keep things in check. Once your medicinal garden gets properly established, it’ll need a spring tidy-up. I always think it’s best to leave any cutting back of perennial plants until the following spring – that way, you’ll have collected all the autumn seeds you need, the birds will have eaten the rest and you’ll enjoy seeing the frost-covered stems during the long, cold days of winter. IDENTIFYING YOUR PERSONAL AILMENT NEEDS Plants are marvellous things – they can soothe an irritated stomach, headache or skin problems; aid digestion or circulation; minimize cold symptoms; and even boost the immune system. But when you’re feeling under the weather, you need to know which plants to turn to for fast relief. What should you be using if you’re prone to colds and flu, suffer from eczema or dermatitis or regularly get indigestion? In the short term, you can buy all the plants in this book fresh or dried from herbal suppliers, health or Asian food shops or supermarkets (see Stockists (#litres_trial_promo)). But in the long term it’s much cheaper (and more fun!) to go down the self-sufficiency route and grow your own. Here’s our list of the most outstanding plant performers you can buy and grow for various common ailments. Stock up on these and you’ll have a natural medicine cabinet that’ll help keep you and your family healthy all year round. For digestive problems For tummy complaints and digestive problems, try angelica, caraway seeds, ginger, fennel, marshmallow, peppermint and slippery elm, all wonderful stomach soothers. What to grow: angelica (Angelica archangelica) and marshmallow are easy to grow in the garden. Ginger will root in a pot on your windowsill, though growing it to harvest is something of an experiment. Don’t be disappointed if the root you unearth in autumn isn’t very large – in a sunny year, you’ll still be rewarded with architectural leaves and perhaps some exotic-looking flowers, and with patience you’ll be able to harvest a good chunk of root from a mature plant. Caraway and fennel like sunny sites (harvest seeds in late summer/autumn); and peppermint likes a bit of shade – all the mints are best grown in pots, as they can be invasive. What to buy: slippery elm powder (not capsules), dried angelica and marshmallow root from herbal suppliers and health food shops. Ginger, fennel and caraway seeds from Asian food shops or supermarkets. For respiratory problems To wage war on colds and flu this winter, stock up on echinacea, elderberries, eucalyptus, ginger, goji berries, nettles, onions and garlic. What to grow: pick elderberries, goji berries (both in early autumn), and nettles in the wild (or you can plant them if you really want!). Find a eucalyptus tree in your neighbourhood and ask for a few leaves. Echinacea, garlic and onions grow well outside. For ginger, see here (#ulink_277e09e0-278c-5604-bc0b-75e555e58717). What to buy: onions, garlic and ginger from greengrocers. Dried elderberries, eucalyptus leaves, nettles, echinacea root or tincture from herbal specialists or health food shops. Dried goji berries from Asian food shops (where they can be as little as half the price of those in fancy health food stores). For dermatological problems To soothe skin problems including cuts, rashes, bruises, burns, insect bites, itchiness, eczema and psoriasis, keep the following handy: aloe vera, chamomile, chickweed, pot marigold, plantain, St John’s wort, tea tree and witch hazel. What to grow: chickweed and plantain grow prolifically in the wild (and the latter perhaps in your lawn too!). Aloe vera will grow in a pot; cut off a leaf whenever you need one. Chamomile and pot marigold (Calendula officinalis) like a sunny border (or pot), and St John’s wort will be happy in partial shade; harvest the flowering tops as they bloom in early summer. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) flowers in winter, but you can use the twigs and leaves throughout the year. It will tolerate most conditions: sun, part shade or a deeper shady woodland setting. What to buy: tea tree essential oil, dried chamomile, dried marigold flowers, dried St John’s wort and aloe vera gel from herbal suppliers and health food shops. Distilled witch hazel is handy for everyday use, from pharmacies. For kids In their remedies, children like plants that look and taste sweet and fruity, such as bilberries, blackberries, blackcurrants, chamomile, elderberries, honeysuckle, mint, rosehip – oh, and ginger is great for travel sickness. What to grow: you can pick elderberries, blackberries and rosehips from wild hedgerows in late summer/early autumn. Mint (all varieties) grows well in pots in semi-shade. For ginger, see here (#ulink_277e09e0-278c-5604-bc0b-75e555e58717). Blackcurrant and bilberry bushes need space; you can grow both in pots. Honeysuckle grows wild, in the garden or in a large pot with support. Chamomile likes sun, preferably in a border, though pots will do. What to buy: bilberries, blackcurrants, blackberries, ginger and fresh mint from greengrocers or supermarkets. Dried chamomile, elderberries and rosehips from herbal suppliers and health food shops. For muscular & joint problems To soothe sore muscles and bring topical relief to stiff joints, keep a good supply of chilli, eucalyptus, ginger, horseradish, liquorice and turmeric. What to grow: horseradish, turmeric. Chilli is surprisingly high yielding; one plant will keep you in chillies almost all year round and you can save and sow the seeds from your own fruit. Ginger (see here (#ulink_277e09e0-278c-5604-bc0b-75e555e58717)). All four can be grown in pots. Liquorice in pots or the border. Eucalyptus trees are huge – look for one in the neighbourhood and ask for some leaves if you don’t have room to plant your own, although some eucalyptus, such as eucalyptus gunnii, can be pruned or cut right back so space need not be a problem. What to buy: chilli peppers, ginger, horseradish root, liquorice root, turmeric root or powder from Asian or ethnic food shops, greengrocers and supermarkets. Dried eucalyptus leaves from herbal suppliers. For emotional problems What to grow: gotu kola, lemon balm, St John’s wort andvervain grow easily in the garden, though gotu kola andvervain are tender, so bring under cover in winter. (See how to plant a Raise the Spirits pot see here (#litres_trial_promo).) Rose root actually likes the cold, but give it good drainage; it’s a succulent plant and you don’t want it to rot through a wet winter. Ginseng (Panax ginseng) grows well here, but roots from 6-7-year-old plants are used, so it may be easier to buy! What to buy:Panax ginseng roots from Asian and health food shops. Dried gotu kola, St John’s wort and vervain from herbal suppliers. For hormonal problems What to grow: raspberry bushes need a bit of space, but can be grown in a large pot. Sage will grow in pots or in the garden. What to buy: dried raspberry leaves from herbal suppliers, fresh sage from supermarkets. For headaches What to grow: rosemary and feverfew are easily cultivated in the garden. Feverfew is great value too because it’ll self-seed like crazy, and you’ll always have it once you’ve planted it. Willow (Salix spp.) grows along riverbanks – ask permission from your local authority if you want to harvest a little of the inner bark from young branches in spring. What to buy: willow bark and dried feverfew leaves from herbal suppliers, fresh rosemary from supermarkets. MAKING BASIC REMEDY SKILLS Creating remedies is just like cooking. In fact, it can often be much easier – there are no tricky risottos, white sauces or souffl?s, for a start. There are only two basic methods of extracting the essential ingredients of plants at home: by steeping them in a cold liquid (oil, vinegar, alcohol, glycerine, honey); or by heating them in a warm liquid (water or syrup – a mixture of water and sugar). These plant extracts can be applied to the body externally in the form of salves, rubs, bath and body scrubs, mouthwashes, face masks and moisturizing creams, or internally as drinks, soups, cough syrups, lozenges, lovely oldfashioned tonics, jellies and lollies, and even ap?ritifs and cocktails. Some methods are more suitable than others for preparing certain herbs – it depends on the nature of the active ingredients they contain. All the methods in these recipes are specially designed to deliver the active ingredients in the optimum way. Before you start, read this simple introduction to the best ways of extracting plant ingredients, plus a couple of basic remedy-making skills you’ll find useful. Then you can get cracking… Infusions There’s nothing easier than making a cup of tea with your plants – just put them in a teapot and pour freshly boiled water over. This is called an infusion, and it’s definitely the quickest way to take in the goodness of plants (apart from those you can eat raw in salads!). To make an infusion: you’ll need about 30g fresh or 15g dried leaves or flowers for every 500ml ofwater. If you don’t have a teapot, use a glass bowl, but make sure you put a cover over it (a large plate will do), so the essential oils don’t evaporate. Leave the tea to steep for about 8-10 minutes, then strain and drink. Infusions are also used in the making of creams and lotions, and you can pour them into your bath for a soothing soak. Use this infusion method for flowers and leaves. You can add a little honey or sugar if you have a sweet tooth. Storage Teas are best drunk the same day, but you can make up a batch of 3 cups in the morning, store covered in the refrigerator, then reheat as needed. Decoctions A decoction is just like a tea, but with plants left to simmer for a while – tougher plant materials like roots, twigs, seeds and bark need a longer cooking time to extract their essential ingredients. To make a decoction: wash and cut up the roots, twigs or bark to expose a large surface area and make the extraction easier. In a pan, put about 30g chopped fresh plant material (or 15g dried) for every 500ml ofwater. Cover the pan, bring to the boil, then simmer for at least 10 minutes (and up to 30 minutes for tougher roots). Strain before drinking. Decoctions are also used in making lotions and creams, and you can pour them liberally into the bath. Storage Best drunk the same day. But, as with infusions, you can make up a batch of 3 cups in the morning, store covered in the refrigerator, then reheat as needed to drink throughout the day. Infused oils Infused oils capture the flavour, colour and perfume as well as the essential, health-giving compounds of plants. They’re ideal for use as massage and bath oils, and as a base from which to make creams, rubs and salves. Herb oils like basil, rosemary and thyme can also be used in cooking or salad dressings. You can make single-flavour oils or blend two or more plants together to make a mixed-flavour oil – these are also great as homemade gifts. To make an infused oil: three-quarters fill a clean glass, screw-top or Kilner jar with plant material, crushing lightly to release the essential compounds. Pour over the oil of your choice (see Choosing base oils (#ulink_9cfe8713-b54a-5761-a0df-6f011eda515f)), making sure all the plants are completely submerged – stray leaves or flowers can go mouldy and affect oil quality. Storage Seal, and leave in a warm, sunny spot for 2 weeks, shaking the bottle every couple of days, and pushing down any uncovered plant material. Strain into a sterilized bottle. Choosing base oils The base oil you choose depends on how you’re going to be using the infused oil. If it’s for creams and lotions, choose a light, non-greasy vegetable oil such as sunflower, safflower, palm or grapeseed oil – my favourite is sunflower oil because it is the cheapest and most readily available. Who would have thought the same stuff you fry your chips in would turn out to be the best for making luxurious creams and bath products? For very dry skin, however, heavier oils such as olive, avocado or wheatgerm are excellent, though a little more pricey. If it’s for internal use, choose an oil you like to cook with – for example, sunflower, sesame, groundnut, walnut or olive oil. Oils can go rancid if stored badly, so check it’s okay (just taste a little) before you use it. Quick solution! If you need an infused oil for a recipe and don’t have 2 weeks to spare, try this fast maceration instead. Put the plant material in a glass bowl, cover with oil, then place above a pan of boiling water and cook, covered, for 20 minutes to 1 hour, or until the oil has taken on the colour and flavour of the herbs. Strain and bottle. Storage Infused oils will last for 6 months to 1 year if stored in a cool, dark place. Vinegars You can infuse vinegars with fresh plant material in exactly the same way as oils. They are very palatable as cordials sweetened with honey, and as daily tonics taken by the spoonful. They work well in compresses, as gargles and mouthwashes, to add shine to hair in rinses or just poured into the bath to soothe skin. They also add an extra depth of flavour in cooking and salad dressings. To make an infused vinegar: three-quarters fill a clean Kilner jar with plant material, crushing lightly to help release the essential compounds. Pour over cider or white wine vinegar to cover (don’t use malt), making sure the plants are completely submerged. Storage Seal, and leave in a warm, sunny spot for 2 weeks, shaking the bottle every couple of days, and pushing down any uncovered plant material. When ready, strain and pour into a sterilized bottle. Tinctures When you use alcohol to extract the active ingredients from plants, it’s called a tincture. Alcohol is more effective than oil and vinegar at extraction from tough plant material such as roots and resins. It’s also a good preservative, so tinctures last longer than other preparations, and as they are more concentrated, you use less. These recipes mostly specify vodka because it is colourless and almost tasteless, which allows the flavour of the plants to come through. But whisky, brandy, gin or rum are just as effective – any distilled alcohol can be used as long as it is at least 80% proof (ie 40% alcohol). If made with concentrations below that, tinctures will deteriorate more quickly. Tinctures are very handy – they’re easy to store, and give you concentrated plant goodness whenever you need it. They’re usually taken a teaspoonful a day when required, and they work fast, being absorbed quickly into the bloodstream. If you don’t want to take alcoholic tinctures, an alternative is a glycerite. To make a tincture: three-quarters fill a small Kilner or glass jar with plant material, then cover with the alcohol of your choice, making sure all the plants are completely submerged. Seal, and leave in a dark place at room temperature for between 8 days to 1 month (the length of time depends on the ‘toughness’ of the plant material – resins and roots take longer than flowers and leaves). Shake the bottle occasionally, making sure all plant material remains covered. When ready, strain into small, dark glass bottles. Storage Using amber, black or blue glass will help preserve the tincture longer. Kept in a cool, dark place, tinctures will last for 2 years (and sometimes longer). Glycerites If you don’t want to use alcohol, you can extract the active constituents in plants with glycerine instead. Glycerine is a pure substance, like sugar or salt, which tastes sweet and syrupy, so it is often used in children’s remedies as a cordial to which you add water. It’s also soothing and emollient, and is good for skin preparations and sore throat and cough preparations, as well as for calming the digestive system. Glycerine is not as efficient as alcohol at extracting essential plant compounds, so the end result is less concentrated and has a shorter shelf life. To make a basic glycerite: three-quarters fill a Kilner or other glass jar with plant material (leaves and flowers are best), crushing lightly to help release the essential compounds. Pour glycerine over to cover, making sure all the plants are completely submerged. Seal, and leave on a warm, bright windowsill for 2 weeks to infuse, shaking every couple of days. Strain into bottles. Storage Glycerites will keep for up to 1 year. Gels Gels are used medicinally as jellies and in skin preparations – they have good astringent or skin-tightening properties – and also in many cosmetics including hair and aftershave gels and face masks. The gel-like consistency is achieved by adding gelatine, or other clear thickener such as xanthan gum, to the recipe at the appropriate time, then whisking with or without heat until the mixture thickens and a gel is formed. I usually use powdered vegetable gelatine, which dissolves easily and has good thickening properties – you can buy it from the baking section of most supermarkets. To make a simple face mask gel: in a pan, pour 100ml of a plant-based infusion of your choice. Dissolve a sachet of vegetable gelatine into the infusion (usually one 6g sachet per 100ml liquid, but it depends on the brand you buy – I always make it 3 times stronger than advised on the packet). Stir to dissolve, then heat gently for a couple of minutes, whisking vigorously until you get a smooth gel. If you like, whisk in a few drops of an essential oil of your choice for its medicinal properties or scent. Storage Gelatine-based remedies don’t keep well. Store in the refrigerator and use within 2 days if taking internally. Cosmetic and hair gels will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Ointments, salves & balms Ointments, salves and medicinal balms are all oil and wax preparations, made to various consistencies. An ointment is thinner than a salve, and is usually applied over large areas of the body to soothe skin, or to rub into the chest as an expectorant. Salves and medicinal balms are thicker and waxier, and tend to be used on specific areas such as joints (or lips!). All are easy to make, by heating an emulsifier such as beeswax or emulsifying wax with an infused oil – you simply add more emulsifier to make a thicker salve or less for a thinner ointment. To make a basic ointment: in a glass bowl, put 300ml of an infused oil with 25g beeswax. (Use granules, or break solid wax into small pieces – you can even use 100% beeswax candles.) Stand the bowl over a pan of simmeringwater, and stir gently until all the wax has melted. Pour while still warm into wide-mouthed salve jars – the ointment thickens as it cools. Getting the right consistency: To check if the ointment is the consistency you want, drop a little into a glass of iced water – if it turns into a ball, it’ll be a thick balm; if it disperses on the surface, you’ll have the consistency of a thinner ointment. To make the mixture thicker, add an extra ? teaspoon of beeswax at a time; to make it thinner, add 1 extra teaspoon of infused oil at a time. Heat again and re-test until you’re happy with it. Storage Ointments, salves and balms will keep for 1 year. Creams Creams are an excellent way to apply plants’ active compounds to skin, being quickly absorbed and moisturizing. They’re also great fun to make, and much more cost-effective than buying in a shop. A cream is basically a mixture of water and oil, held together with an emulsifier. I tend to use a combination of beeswax and emulsifying wax. It’s true that creams are just a little trickier to make than salves, but if you follow a few simple rules, you’ll soon pick up the knack. To make a basic cream: put 40ml infused oil in a glass bowl with 6 teaspoons of emulsifying wax and 2 teaspoons of beeswax. Heat the bowl over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally, until the wax is completely dissolved. Then it’s like making mayonnaise. Pour in 250ml warm water in a thin, steady stream, while whisking vigorously. Whisk for about 5 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl if necessary, until the mixture forms an emulsion. Take the pan off the heat and keep whisking while the cream cools and thickens, to stop the oil and water separating. You can whisk in a few drops of an essential oil while the cream is cooling, to add medicinal qualities and scent. Essential oils even act as a natural preservative, because of their anti-microbial properties. Then spoon the cream into a sterile wide-mouthed jar and seal. (For very simple instructions on how to sterilize jars, see below.) Storage Creams last for up to 2 months in the refrigerator. Getting creams right… These guidelines will help your creams come out successfully: Make sure both liquids are at approximately the same temperature (about 70°C or slightly higher) before you start mixing – an even emulsion is less likely to occur if one is much hotter or colder. Dribble the infusion into the oil very slowly – if you blob too much in at a time, it won’t emulsify well. Keep beating during the cooling process to get a good consistency. The cream thickens as it cools. Be patient! The cream will thicken upon cooling, so don’t be disheartened if you have a smooth, white liquid that is a little runny. It will thicken up greatly as soon as it cools to room temperature. Sterilizing bottles and jars Before you use any glass bottles and jars for storing your remedies, quickly sterilize them. I always put them through the hottest spin of the dishwasher and leave them to dry in the steam. But you can also wash them in very hot soapy water, then stand them upside down on some newspaper, and place in the oven at a low setting (about 70°C) for about 20 minutes. Then they’re ready for filling. (#ulink_f9c1405d-698a-5fa4-a2fe-979c15818ab5) 3 THE REMEDIES: TOP TO TOE CARE FOR A HEALTHY BODY (#ulink_f9c1405d-698a-5fa4-a2fe-979c15818ab5) Herbal remedies can have a reputation for being rather ominous, dark brews, laboriously boiled for hours and knocked back in a single traumatic gulp, with your fingers firmly pinched over your nose. Despite my best efforts to avoid the issue, I must confess that for many old-school traditional remedies this reputation is well deserved. I was subjected to a fair few acrid concoctions when growing up, and can personally confirm their powerful pre-emptive placebo effect. Nothing can make a sick child’s symptoms miraculously disappear as fast as being presented with a murky bowl of soup scattered with unidentified roots and twigs. Sorry, Mum. Luckily, not all natural medicines have to be this way, and I am a passionate believer (almost evangelical, in fact) that the vast majority are unbelievably easy to make and can look and taste truly wonderful. What I find incredibly exciting from a culinary perspective is that herbal remedies can open up a whole range of truly amazing flavours to which we would otherwise be oblivious. Meadowsweet blossoms, traditionally used to relieve pain, have a fizzy, sweet flavour of rich marzipan and elderflowers, while echinacea has an almost electric, metallic tingle, provided by alkylamides (the group of chemicals that give the plant its immune-enhancing effects). I know how geeky this sounds, but I am convinced that the weird and wonderful flavours of many medicinal plants are perfect for chefs and mixologists. You just wait, it won’t be long before feverfew martinis are on the menus of swanky cocktail bars everywhere. But I digress. Experimenting in my kitchen at home with all sorts of medicinal ingredients for this book, I have created a collection of entirely new recipes. These are my modern twist on age-old remedies and are as easy to make as they are delicious to drink, wonderful to smell and soothing to apply. The intensely bitter, drying taste of willow bark tea (one of the substances from which aspirin was first derived) has been turned into a smoky, sweet willow and lime granita, a modern (and, frankly, far more palatable) take on the original, which nevertheless does just as good a job. True, my experiments don’t always work out right, and some recipes have undergone over a dozen reformulations before I finally got them spot on, but I think that’s half the fun. There are fewer hard and fast rules with herbal remedies than you might imagine; as long as you pick the right plant and prepare it in a broadly similar way to its traditional use and dosage, there is plenty of room to mix and match and play around. I suppose the useful thing is that most of the laborious trial-and-error work has been done by me, leaving you with a collection of tried-and-tested modern home remedies. They are presented here more or less according to the part of the body they are used to treat, to give you a top-to-toe guide to natural medicines that can easily be prepared at home. All you have to do now is get stuck in! (#ulink_896e871a-3502-58cd-a175-3309aa92bef3) Aloe Vera and Marigold Frozen Gel Cubes for Burns Aloe vera is without doubt the ultimate instant skin soother. You can simply snap off one of its squidgy gel-packed leaves, which work like living first-aid sachets, and apply it directly to the skin – no fuss necessary. But nature can be improved upon. These ice-cold aloe and marigold gel cubes are especially cooling for sunburned skin, helping to prevent scarring, inflammation and infection and to promote healing – though they can be used on any kind of burn. 2 mature fresh aloe vera leaves 4 fresh marigold flower heads (Calendula officinalis) 16 drops lavender essential oil (1 drop per ice cube) 1 Peel the fresh aloe leaves (see Tip (#ulink_d08ab47c-517a-5789-9cc6-cd5df86c83ba)) to give you a gooey mass of gel. 2 Put into a blender with the marigold flowers and whizz until smooth. 3 Pour the gel into ice-cube trays, adding a drop of lavender essential oil into each individual cube. Freeze until solid. USE Apply a cube directly to the affected area as needed. The ice cubes melt quickly to produce masses of fragrant soothing gel. Don’t forget to have a paper towel or cloth handy to mop up the melted gel; the goo has a habit of going everywhere! STORAGE Will keep in the freezer for up to 6 months. james’s tip To peel an aloe leaf: cut a mature leaf from the outside of the plant, as close to the base as you can (you can store these leaves in the refrigerator for 2 weeks; amazingly, they ‘seal’ themselves at the cut edges). Slice off the ends, trimming the spikes off the sides with a sharp knife. Then place the aloe flat on the chopping board and run the knife inside the skin, slicing it off as you would skin a fish – be careful, the gel is very slippery and your knife can slide all over the place. Turn and repeat, taking off the skin on the other side. You’re left with a gooey mass of slippery gel, and you can pop this straight into the blender. A Simple Cream This is an incredibly simple recipe for a basic cream. Once you have mastered this, and trust me it isn’t rocket science, you can adapt it to your own needs by mixing and matching it with other ingredients. 250ml warm water (you could swap this for any herbal decoction or infusion you like) 2 tsp beeswax 6 tsp emulsifying wax 40ml sunflower oil (you can experiment with other oils such as almond, olive, etc, or even use oils infused with herbs) 2 tsp vitamin C powder (optional) 6–12 drops whichever essential oil takes your fancy (optional) 1 Combine the beeswax, emulsifying wax and oil together in a pan and heat very gently until the waxes fully dissolve. 2 Pour the warm water in a thin stream into the oil and wax mixture, whisking vigorously all the time. You should see an instant colour change as the mix turns creamy white. Don’t panic however if it looks a little thin textured, this will thicken significantly as it cools. Although very simple to get right, this is the single most important stage of making a cream. If you simply bung in all the water in one go, or don’t whisk the mixture well enough as you are adding it, the two liquids will not combine to form the smooth emulsion you are looking for. Slow pouring and vigorous whisking are key. 3 Stir in the vitamin C powder (which acts as a natural preservative) and essential oils if desired, and bottle up in clean screw-top jars. USE Apply the cream liberally wherever you feel the need. STORAGE Will keep in the fridge for up to 1 month. james’s tip I always liken making creams to the ordering a drink at high-street coffee chains, where you can have your latte non-fat, with an extra shot of espresso, a dash of hazelnut syrup, despite us all knowing it’s basically just coffee. Well in the same way you could add a couple of drops of whichever essential oil you fancy to adapt its smell, infuse either the water or oil component (or both) with herbs to give it an extra kick, and even try out different base oils – the sky is the limit! Elder and Neem Insect Repellent Gel This all-natural mozzy repellent conveniently doubles up as a cooling, anti-inflammatory ‘aftersun’ gel. Sweet and spicy, the combination of savoury neem and lemony citronella makes it smell miles better than anything you can get over the counter. Glycerine is available in most pharmacies, and can usually be found among the cough syrups. Neem oil and citronella essential oil can both be bought from health food shops. 8 heaped tbsp fresh elder leaves and buds about 100ml glycerine 50ml neem oil 4ml citronella essential oil 100g aloe vera gel 1 Rinse the elder leaves and buds in running water. Pat dry with a paper towel, then bruise with a pestle and mortar or rolling pin. Place in a clean, sealable glass jar, then pour on enough glycerine to cover the plant material and close the jar. Leave for 2 weeks, shaking occasionally. Strain through muslin. The resultant liquid is known as a glycerite (basically an infused glycerine), and is one of the easiest ways to extract the best out of a whole range of herbs. 2 In another bowl, add the neem oil to the citronella essential oil and stir. Pour in 50ml of the elder leaf glycerite and whisk together thoroughly to make a gel. Finally, stir in the aloe vera gel and pour into a 300ml bottle. USE Massage the gel into the skin, especially exposed areas like ankles, wrists and neck, avoiding the eyes. Cover the whole body and remember to re-apply after washing or bathing in the evening or at night. A little goes a long way since it’s quite strong. CAUTION If any irritation occurs, wash off at once. STORAGE Will keep for up to 1 year in a cool, dark place. Aloe and Slippery Elm Antiseptic Poultice This is an indispensable item of the homemade first-aid kit – an antiseptic ‘drawing’ poultice to help treat infected cuts, skin ulcers, boils, bites and stings. Its team of botanical ingredients can help draw out poisons, reduce inflammation and pain, and accelerate healing. 10g slippery elm powder 20g manuka honey 18ml aloe vera juice 4ml lavender essential oil Mix all the ingredients together in a clean screw-top jar. USE Clean and dry the affected area, apply the paste, then cover with a plaster and/or bandages. Change the dressing every 12 hours. STORAGE Keeps for up to 1 year in an airtight jar. Manuka Honey Wound Healer The antiseptic powers of manuka honey have been used for centuries by the Maori people in its native New Zealand to draw out infections. By teaming it with lavender, another potent antiseptic, you get a simple and effective salve to aid the healing of wounds, from infected cuts to ulcers. 1 jar manuka honey 2 drops lavender essential oil sterile wound dressing USE Clean and dry the wound, ensuring no foreign objects are present. Mix the honey and essential oil together and apply the fragrant mix directly to the wound. Dress the wound with a sterile dressing. Change the dressing daily, twice daily if necessary. When changing the dressing, it is important that you wash the wound with sterile water (or boiled and cooled water) or saline solution. Reapply the honey mix before redressing. Herb Robert Cream Herb Robert is a dainty wild geranium that grows freely in gardens and the countryside, often as a common weed. It was traditionally used as a cure-all and this gentle cream can help soothe a variety of skin conditions, including bruises, thread veins and chilblains. It’s also worth trying for varicose veins. Compound benzoin tincture is also known, rather exotically, as friar’s balsam. See here. To make the plant juice: 4–5 handfuls fresh herb Robert (about 6–8 whole plants) 2–6 sprigs fresh rosemary, each about 15–20cm long 8 tsp manuka honey To make the cream: 16g beeswax 8g emulsifying wax 80ml olive oil 6 drops benzoin or compound benzoin tincture 1 Place the herb Robert and rosemary in a large mortar with the manuka honey, and pound to a paste. Allow to sit for 10 minutes while the sugar in the honey draws the active ingredients out of the plants. Place the sweet paste in clean muslin and squeeze out the juice into a small bowl. 2 Take 1? tablespoons of the sweetened juice and put into a small pan. Heat quickly until it steams but doesn’t boil, then turn off the heat immediately. This process greatly increases its shelf life. 3 Melt the waxes in the olive oil in a glass heatproof bowl over a pan of boiling water, then remove from the heat. Pour the warmed plant juice into the bowl with the melted waxes and oil, then add the compound benzoin tincture and whisk together. Continue whisking while it cools slightly to stop ingredients separating, then put in a wide-mouthed jar and refrigerate. USE Apply to affected area 3–4 times a day as needed. STORAGE Will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator. Oat and Chamomile Bath Bag for Eczema A soothing bath treat that will help soften and moisturize all skin types, though it’s particularly useful for dermatitis, eczema and other irritated, itchy skin conditions. 8 tbsp oats 3g dried chamomile flowers Cut a 25–30cm square of muslin and lay flat. In a bowl, mix the oats and chamomile flowers together. Tip into the middle of the muslin. Gather the corners of the muslin and secure into a ball with string. USE Run a full bath, climb in, and soak the bag in the water for a few minutes. Then rub the bag directly on your skin as a gentle exfoliator – avoid damaged skin if using for eczema. Once finished, drop the ball into the bath and squeeze (the water will look a little milky). Remain in the bath for a further 10 minutes. Use twice weekly to treat eczema. Lemongrass Insect Repellent Fresh lemongrass is easier to find than fresh citronella grass (which you can buy only from specialist nurseries). It works in a similar way as a potent natural insect repellent, with the added benefit of antibacterial and antifungal properties. Here, I’ve mixed it with a couple of other aromatic insecticidal plants for a modern take on a traditional South-East Asian bug-repellent oil, with a sweet spicy fragrance that smells wonderful to anyone but insects. 10 lemongrass sticks 4 tsp scented pelargonium ‘Citronella’ leaves (about 15 leaves) 4 tsp whole cloves 400ml sunflower oil, to cover Конец ознакомительного фрагмента. Текст предоставлен ООО «ЛитРес». Прочитайте эту книгу целиком, купив полную легальную версию (https://www.litres.ru/james-wong/grow-your-own-drugs-a-year-with-james-wong/?lfrom=688855901) на ЛитРес. 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