Jack Russell Terrier: An Owner’s Guide

Jack Russell Terrier: An Owner’s Guide Robert Killick A comprehensive guide to all aspects of owning a Jack Russell Terrier, this highly illustrated book is full of practical information and expert advice for pet owners and breeders.Jack Russell Terriers are very intelligent, high-energy dogs whose compact size and friendly nature make them great pets. If you are considering getting a Jack Russell, or are an existing owner who wants to learn more about the care of your dog, then this book will be an invaluable resource.Contents include:• History of the breed• Acquiring a puppy• Behaviour and training• Showing a Jack Russell• Healthcare JACK RUSSELL Terrier AN OWNER’S GUIDE Robert Killick Healthcare by David Taylor This book is dedicated to my friend Clive Hoyle, a master breeder of Welsh cobs and working Jack Russell Terriers under his prefix ‘Llangybi’. I thank him for showing me the way with Llangybi Mister Chips, the most maddening but loveable Terrier I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a few! Contents Cover (#ufc58dbb6-ad53-5fd9-8fdc-02ae7be8c62f) Title Page (#u63fead8b-f8dd-5e72-84c1-f182d4dfc308) Dedication (#ulink_901ddab6-b43c-5ff3-865d-b5a896d6b6cf) Foreword (#ulink_792bfa3c-231e-5be2-bdcb-9054cdafc405) Introduction (#ulink_452207ae-2a84-5936-9bd5-23588787ed79) Part 1: You and your dog (#ulink_25ff5235-5b35-51e1-bcfe-5ea458950e89) Chapter 1: History of the breed (#ulink_12ec9a20-c7f2-550d-bcb6-190be4363a5f) Chapter 2: Acquiring a puppy (#ulink_34245d90-a64f-5b3f-ac0c-20ad59160af3) Chapter 3: The adult dog (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 4: Behaviour and training (#litres_trial_promo) Chapter 5: Dog showing (#litres_trial_promo) Part 2: Healthcare (#litres_trial_promo) Useful information (#litres_trial_promo) Notes (#litres_trial_promo) Index (#litres_trial_promo) Acknowledgements (#litres_trial_promo) About the Author (#litres_trial_promo) Copyright (#litres_trial_promo) About the Publisher (#litres_trial_promo) Foreword (#ulink_a929da62-6147-5b68-8ca3-dfa64ea5668d) I feel well placed to write this foreword and was delighted to have been asked. The first thing that makes me suitable is my Jack Russell experience; everyone knows how demanding they are and to have one is a challenge – well, I have four! Each one is totally different, in your face, bright as a button, ahead of the game and completely beguiling. I would not be without them. Secondly, I am suitable through knowing the author, Robert Killick. For some years we have worked together on dog charity projects at Crufts and it is not only his love of dogs but also his encyclopedic knowledge of them that has enabled him to write seven books. He is the right man to write this book and I commend it to anyone who wants to know the real Jack Russell. Bill Roache MBE Introduction (#ulink_fcfd159a-0bf3-533c-a0ec-d7ec540e198f) The Jack Russell Terrier is one of the most important Terrier breeds because it has scarcely changed since its beginnings 150 years ago. Early photos and paintings show this to be true; indeed a photo of my dishevelled Jack Russell could be the litter brother to Trinity Jim, a famous Jack of around 1901. In this book we will present the quintessential modern Jack Russell from puppyhood through to adulthood. I will be using the words ‘Jack Russell’ because the average member of the public does not know or, I suspect, care about the split in the breed. Whether he is called a Parson Russell Terrier or a Jack Russell, the names are synonymous with a happy, small, vibrant dog whose fame has spread through Europe, Australia and America as a worker and showdog. Arguments rage about this Terrier, particularly his size, but a real Jack Russell is a running machine, slim, muscular with legs in proportion to his body – the short-legged round Terrier is not a proper Jack Russell. Of all the many Terriers I have owned and bred in 35 years, my Jack Russell is the most intelligent and affectionate dog I’ve ever had – his zest for life is remarkable. He is not noisy or quarrelsome but he is self-willed and not easy to train. However, success will reward your patience and kindness. In the home he is good with children, playful and amusing, and, as a bonus, he is a great guard dog – no sound escapes him. As a country dog, he will walk you until you fall over and then want more. As a working Terrier he has no equal, being feisty, courageous and persistent, and yet he is flexible and will be at home in the town or city with sufficient exercise and mental stimulation. The breed’s creator, Reverend John (Jack) Russell, was a legend in his lifetime, his Terriers were his legacy and they are a legend in our time. Robert Killick PART ONE (#ulink_0eadfb29-1ad6-55ab-b919-6ddda6d8e895) YOU AND YOUR DOG (#ulink_0eadfb29-1ad6-55ab-b919-6ddda6d8e895) Owning a dog is a huge responsibility but an extremely rewarding one. When you decide to welcome a Jack Russell Terrier into your home, you have to consider not only how he will fit into your lifestyle but also what you can offer him in return. He will need regular exercise, feeding, games and companionship as well as daily care. Chapter 1 (#ulink_81c09b57-ac5a-5e82-9303-d813302b4588) History of the breed (#ulink_81c09b57-ac5a-5e82-9303-d813302b4588) There are two strains of the same breed, which are prevalent in Great Britain. The Parson Russell Terrier, which is officially recognized by the UK Kennel Club, is, largely speaking, a show dog and pet, although many are working dogs. The other strain, which is more numerous, is simply the Jack Russell Terrier, a working Terrier and also a pet, as recognized and supported by the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Great Britain. Both have their roots in the same stock, that of the Reverend John (Jack) Russell (1795–1883), who, from 1815 until his death, developed his own strain of hunt terriers which suited his style of hunting and the terrain over which he hunted. Evolution of dogs We will never know exactly how, why and when wolves morphed themselves into domestic dogs; it was part of the evolutionary process and could have been over a period of 500,000 years or more. Those of us blessed with a vivid imagination can picture in our minds a family of primitive men sitting round a fire eating the results of the day’s hunt. The glittering eyes of wolves can be seen watching from the bushes, waiting for the bones that will be tossed into the undergrowth. Wolves, being intelligent, realized that primitive man was a source of food, and because they went hunting as a group, they would skulk along behind the humans in the hope that when they killed their prey there might be enough left over for them. Early Man may have thought of wolves as a source of food – they were edible, especially when young. Primitive children may have liked the look of wolf puppies when they were brought back to the cave as living store food, and perhaps they found that the puppies kept them warm at night, so they kept them and became attached to them. Slowly, over many years, the two species came to trust each other and Primitive man realized that domesticated wolves could help him find his prey and then kill it. With their superior hearing, they also made good guard dogs, warning of the approach of any other humans or animals, and this type probably became sheep and cattle dogs as men became agronomists. The early association between primitive man and wolves has been proved by the discovery of wolf bones found buried with human ones, dating back 500,000 years old. The Parson Russell Terrier is easily recognizable with his longer legs. Like all Jack Russells, he is an excellent ratter and loves to scent and hunt in the garden or countryside. Selective breeding We know that breeds of dog were bred for specific purposes even in ancient times and were respected in many early civilizations in the Middle East, ancient Egypt and China. An enormous number of ancient artefacts depicting dogs have been found in what are now Iraq and Iran as well as the Egyptian pyramids. It is not easy to recognize which breeds are portrayed in these ancient sites, mainly because they were not as sharply defined as they are today. Canophilists can find aspects in early statues and frescos of heavy war dogs, slim hunting dogs and small companion animals, but they seldom identify terriers because they probably did not exist in any way as we know them nowadays. The spread of dogs There is no mystery as to how breeds of dogs were distributed around Europe. Armies, moving on foot for thousands of miles, were usually accompanied by their own dogs and captured indigenous dogs as they travelled. They needed war dogs, watch dogs and herding dogs to control the herds of animals they took with them. During campaigns, invasions and occupations, they left behind and sold some of these dogs. Another mode of distribution was by coastal sea traders, notably the Phoenicians who sailed the Mediterranean and reached the coast of the British Isles. Dogs were probably sold and even survived shipwrecks, later mixing and breeding with the local canine population. Sheep traders from Europe also brought dogs to Britain, which they would have left behind or perhaps traded with the locals. Advent of the Terrier The Terrier was most likely a late addition to the British Isles. Early man saw rats as a food source but later, when he had discovered how to keep the crops he had grown, they became a nuisance and he needed smaller wolf-like dogs to catch and kill them. For reasons not understood, every breed of Terrier emanates from the British Isles, and even though a few new breeds have been developed, they came from British breeds originally. The German Hunt Terrier (Jagdterrier) and the Czech Cesky Terrier are two examples. For millennia, small, feisty dogs of no particular type were kept around British homesteads to control rats and other small mammals considered vermin. These dogs doubled as farm guards. We can only assume that it was from an amalgam of many breeds that the first Terrier types evolved. History of Terriers Very little was written on Terriers in ancient times, although Oppian wrote in the third century of small dogs used by the rough natives of Britain to scent and hunt game. Later, in 1486, Dame Juliana Berners mentioned ‘terours’ among other breeds of ‘dogges’ in her Boke of St Albans. Dr Johannes Caius presented terriers as we would recognize them today in his book on dogs, De Canibus Britannicis (1570). In 1686, Richard Blome described the working Terrier, which was indicative of a change in the attitude of huntsmen and the development of Terriers. It is a Jack Russell’s instinct to hunt and to dig. Like most other Terrier breeds, these dogs were developed to keep down vermin. In pre-medieval and medieval times, the aristocracy hunted deer for pleasure and the larder, so the development of hounds was their priority. Terriers were for the peasantry and interested the nobility only when they were engaged in dog fights, bull baiting and badger hunting. Medieval laws even forbade peasants from owning hunting dogs and disabled any suspect dogs to prevent them being used for deer hunting. Gundogs became a necessity when guns were introduced – Setters were used to indicate where the birds were, and Retrievers to bring back the dead. Fox hunting This sport started to be popular in the fifteenth century when hunters discovered the pleasure of a long run on horseback in pursuit of the fox. They divided their time between stag hunting for food and fox hunting for pleasure and used the same staghounds for both. They soon realized, however, that the staghounds were too heavy and slow for hunting the fox and replaced them with lighter, faster animals. Because foxes were adept at hiding, the lowly Terrier came into his own. Hitherto the peasant’s yard dog, he was now valued by the aristocracy. He was small with a wonderful sense of smell, feisty and courageous enough to go to earth and either mark where the fox was lying by barking or force him to leave the safety of his lair. If the former was the case and the Terrier was marking the fox, he was expected to keep barking, so the huntsmen could dig out the fox, release it, give it a head start and then pursue it again. Parson Jack Russell did not want his Terriers to kill foxes, although most were quite capable of doing so; they needed to defend themselves against a fox that was desperately trying to escape. Therefore a Terrier had to be brave and sufficiently skilled to take on a fox fighting for its life in darkness in an unfamiliar, small underground chamber. Many huntsmen began to develop their own strain of Terriers. In the early days, they favoured the ubiquitous Black and Tan Terrier, which although now extinct is still present genetically in many familiar breeds. The colour white was introduced, because in bad light and heavy undergrowth the hounds could easily mistake a dark-coloured dog for the fox, and many a fine Terrier was killed in that way. John Russell Only with knowledge of the Reverend John (Jack) Russell, his life and times can we have a better understanding of the breed that carries his name and has done so for more than 150 years. The rural society in which he was born and lived was one of poverty, with many livelihoods dependent on the whims of land owners. Work was long and arduous and there was little to do in the way of entertainment. Hunting was a way of life, and the very existence of a hunt could sustain whole communities. Early life John Russell was born in 1795 in Devonshire, and from boyhood showed an exceptional interest in the countryside and animals. His father, a well-known hunting parson, who, at one time, kept a pack of hounds, encouraged his son to follow in his footsteps. At that time it was not unusual for men of the cloth to be keen on hunting. Indeed, many had their own packs, and they were often admired by their parishioners and overlooked by the church hierarchy. Young John Russell was a tough, strong country lad, who was not easily put down and was always ready to fight his corner, which was just as well for his second school, Blundell’s, a public school in Tiverto, Devon, had a harsh regime, and bullying was rife. He kept ferrets and in his spare time would go ratting for local farmers, who were amused by the boy’s keenness and agreed to keep four-and-a-half couple of hounds (nine hounds) on his behalf. Today’s Jack Russells are all descended from the original Terriers owned by the Reverend John Russell in the nineteenth century. Feisty and fun-loving, these dogs make great family pets as well as being superb workers. At Oxford University, Russell was not interested in cock fighting and heavy drinking like the other young gentlemen undergraduates. Instead, he used every opportunity to hunt with the best packs. Foxhunting became the story of his life, and he was obsessed with hunting until his eighties, riding phenomenal distances to join a famous hunt. The Jack Russell Terrier The tale of how Russell found his first Terrier is well known, but it will lose nothing in re-telling. He was taking an early morning walk in Oxford when he saw the local milkman delivering milk with a white Terrier at his heel. Russell fell for the dog and could not rest until he had bought her. Her name was Trump and she became the foundation bitch of his kennel. A famous Terrier man In 1873, Russell became one of the founder members of the Kennel Club, but although he showed dogs for a short period he believed that dogs bred for the show ring would lose their working characteristics and he was only interested in function. Writing about him in 1904, H. Compton stated, ‘For where shall you find any Terrier strain, or for that matter any strain of dogs, as honoured and renowned as that of the Devonshire Parson whose distaste for show dogs was almost as profound as his admiration for working ones’. Although he was said to be ‘the father of Fox Terriers’, which he kept within his own stud, there were some people who claimed he would buy up any likely looking Terrier and breed him or her. Unfortunately, we will never know the full truth because few of his records have survived, but, to use a stockman’s expression, ‘he had an eye for a dog’ and by a process of selective breeding became the most famous Terrier man in Britain. His fame extended far and wide, not only for his hunting prowess but also for his knowledge of country matters. The Reverend John (Jack) Russell died on 28th April 1883, and, to illustrate how greatly he was esteemed and loved, over 1,000 people attended his funeral, including 24 clergymen, the mayor of Barnstaple and many hunting celebrities. Even the Prince of Wales sent a wreath of wild flowers celebrating Parson Jack’s love of the countryside. Supporters of the breed Two other men who should be named because of their support of Parson Jack and his strain of Terriers are Arthur Heinemann and Squire Nicholas Snow of Oare. Heinemann acquired his original stock of Jack Russell Terriers from the squire, and his kennel woman, Annie Rawle, was the granddaughter of the Parson’s kennel manager, Will Rawle. It was Annie who managed Heinemann’s kennels when the master was serving in World War I. Heinemann was also an obsessive huntsman and a student of Parson Jack’s breeding methods. He wrote the original Standard for the breed, which has been preserved virtually intact to modern times. He also built up a strong kennel of Terriers, and on his death in 1930 his stock passed to Annie Rawle, thereby ensuring the continuation of the type. Using the Parson’s dogs as their patterns, the early show enthusiasts began to ‘improve’ on the originals. They developed their dogs to win in the show ring, but, in the view of many hunting people, they changed the priorities, making perceived beauty the most important criteria instead of function. They thought that the show Terrier would never be called upon to prove his metal in the field and therefore was not worthy of consideration. Today’s working Jack Russell Terrier is a game little dog with all the instincts of his ancestors. He loves to dig and hunt. Fox Terrier Club At the time the generic name for terriers bred to run with Fox Hounds was ‘Fox Terrier’, and even the Parson’s dogs were alluded to as Fox Terriers. Indeed, to some he was the father of the breed. However, other gentlemen, wishing to stabilize the breed, created the Fox Terrier Club and sought recognition from the Kennel Club, which they achieved in 1872. Parson Jack Russell would have none of it and would not register his strain of Terriers with the Kennel Club, believing that it would dilute their hunting qualities. Many enthusiasts followed him, continuing to breed their working terriers in the time-honoured way – only from dogs that showed prowess in the hunting field – and called them Jack Russell Terriers. However, in 1894, Heinemann formed the Devon & Somerset Badger Club, which later changed its name to the Parson Jack Russell Club and became one of the 28 clubs affiliated to the Fox Terrier Club in the 1930s. Sadly, they folded just before World War II. By the turn of the century, dog shows were becoming very popular, and at the same time the Kennel Club’s registered Smooth Fox Terriers became the most popular Terrier exhibits. In some litters of Smooths, Wire-haired puppies appeared, which, although they were not favoured at the time, overtook the Smooths in popularity several years later. From photographs of the time it is easy to see that the Fox Terriers were not so very different to those of today. Popularity of the breed The one major problem that has haunted the breed, since its superb working qualities were recognized, is the spread of what can only be described as ‘counterfeit’ Jack Russells, because few people adhered to a Standard. During Word War II, food was scarce and it was difficult to feed kennels of dogs, so many were forced to close down and numerous dogs did not survive. After the war, when the servicemen started returning home, there was a renewed demand for puppies, and many dog breeders, who were quick to seize the opportunity, began their operations again, producing so-called Jack Russell Terriers, which were acvtually a mishmash of types. Puppy farmers and backyard breeders, seeking only to make money, would mate any Terriers together and call the resultant progeny Jack Russells. Farmers bred Terriers with small sheepdogs and described the puppies as Jack Russells. Although some of these dogs could work foxes or rats with varying degrees of efficacy, in reality they bore little or no resemblance to the real thing, and their puppies would not reproduce the Jack Russell Terrier’s characteristic type. Anyone with a scant knowledge of the breed could recognize major type faults, such as heads that were too wide, weak jaws, too big around the chest, long coupled, short front legs (Queen Ann legs) with turned out stifles, together with a lack of balance and symmetry. Other faults might include protuberant eyes, incorrect coat texture and colour, big pricked ears and roached backs. Jack Russell Terrier Club In 1974 a group of Terrier enthusiasts gathered together to form the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Great Britain (JRTC of GB) and to write a Standard in an attempt to stabilize the breed. A constitution was drawn up, with rule No. 1 being ‘To promote and preserve the working Terrier known as the Jack Russell’. To maintain the perceived difference between the working dog and the Kennel Club registered dog, Rule 2f of their constitution reads: ‘History has shown that Kennel Club recognition to be detrimental to the physical structure and working capabilities of a variety of working breeds, therefore this club is opposed to the Kennel Club recognition of the Jack Russell Terrier’. Parson Russell Club Other enthusiasts, who wanted to show their dogs, followed a different path to their eventual recognition by the Kennel Club. In 1894, Heinemann formed the Devon & Somerset Badger Club, which later changed its name to the Parson Jack Russell Club and became one of the 28 clubs affiliated to the Fox Terrier Club in the 1930s. Sadly, they folded just before World War II but some breeders still clung to the old ideals of a terrier whose legs were long enough to allow him to run with the hounds, whose chest could be spanned and who was courageous and strong enough to face an angry fox in his lair. They thought, rightly or wrongly, that the only way to preserve the real Jack Russell was to gain recognition from the Kennel Club and to have an official Standard for the breed. Late in 1983 there was a rumour that supporters of a short-legged variety were to apply for recognition to the Kennel Club, so the enthusiasts for the show dogs, who believed their version was closer to the original, hurriedly formed the Parson Jack Russell Club and applied for recognition, which was refused. In 1990, after much controversy and several attempts, the new club received Kennel Club recognition and its eventual name was The Parson Russell Club. The Parson Russell Terrier has slightly longer legs than the working-type Jack Russell, making it easier for him to run with hounds. The Breed Standards These are detailed descriptions of ideal dogs within the breed. A Standard is not a blueprint because, as a living creature, no dog can replicate another. Instead, it is a guide to perfection. The perfect dog does not exist, which is why we strive to breed better dogs that are as close to the Standard as possible. If you want a puppy for showing or breeding, you should immerse yourself in the breed and make a study of the Standard to familiarize yourself with its every nuance. A real insight into a breed is not gained overnight, nor does it matter how much theoretical knowledge you have – instead, it demands ‘hands on’ experience. Note that the word ‘type’, as applied to dogs, can be confusing. If a dog is said to lack type it means that he lacks some of the characteristics that typify the breed. The precise meaning of the word is ‘the hundreds of points which when put together makes one breed distinguishable from all others’. Type is contained within the Standard. The Jack Russell Terrier (The Jack Russell Terrier Club of Great Britain) Characteristics The Terrier must present a lively, active and alert appearance with its fearless and happy disposition. It should be remembered that the Jack Russell is a working Terrier, and should retain these instincts. Nervousness, cowardice and over-aggression should be discouraged, and the dog should always appear confident. General appearance A sturdy, tough Terrier, very much on its toes all the time. Measuring between 25cm (10in) and 37cm (15in) at the withers. The body length must be in proportion to the height, and it should present a compact, balanced image, always being in solid, hard condition. Head Should be well balanced and in proportion to the body. The skull should be flat, of moderate width at the ears, narrowing to the eyes, There should be a defined stop, but not over-pronounced, The length of the muzzle from the nose to the stop should be slightly shorter than the distance from the stop to the occiput. The nose should be black. The jaw should be powerful and well boned with strongly muscled cheeks. Eyes Should be almond-shaped, dark in colour and full of life and intelligence. Ears Small V-shaped, drop ears carried forward close to the head and of moderate thickness. Mouth Strong teeth with the upper set slightly overlapping the lower. Neck Clean and muscular, of good length, gradually widening at the shoulder. Forequarters The shoulders should be sloping and well laid back, fine at points and clearly cut at the withers, Forelegs should be strong and straight boned with joints in correct alignment. Elbows hanging perpendicular to the body and working free of the sides. Body The chest should be shallow, narrow and the front legs set not too widely apart giving an athletic rather than a heavy chested appearance. As a guide only, the chest should be small enough to be easily spanned behind the shoulders by average hands when the Terrier is in a fit, working condition. The back should be strong, straight and in comparison to the height of the Terrier, give a balanced image. The loin should be slightly arched. Hindquarters Should be strong and muscular, well put together with good angulation and hand of stifle, giving plenty of drive and propulsion. Looking from behind the hocks must be straight. Feet Round, hard padded of cat-like appearance, neither turning in nor out. Tail Should be set rather high, carried gaily and in proportion to the body length, usually about 10cm (4in) long, providing a good handhold. Coat Smooth, without being so sparse as not to provide a certain amount of protection from the elements and undergrowth. Rough or broken-coated without being woolly. Colour White should predominate with tan, black or brown Markings. Brindle markings are unacceptable. Gait Movement should be free, lively and well co-ordinated with straight action in front and behind. The Parson Russell Terrier (The Kennel Club) General appearance Workmanlike, active and agile, built for speed and endurance. Overall picture of balance and flexibility. Honourable scars permissible. Characteristics Essentially a working terrier with ability and conformation to go to ground and run with hounds. Temperament Bold and friendly. Head and skull Flat, moderately broad, gradually narrowing to the eyes. Shallow stop. Length of nose to stop slightly shorter than from stop to occiput. Nose black. Eyes Almond shaped, fairly deep set, dark, keen expression. Ears Small, V-shaped, dropping forward, carried close to head, tip of ear to reach corner of the eye, fold not to appear above top of skull. Leather of moderate thickness. Mouth Jaws strong, muscular. Teeth with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, ie. upper teeth closely overlapping lower lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Neck Clean, muscular, of good length gradually widening to shoulders. Forequarters Shoulders long and sloping, well laid back. Cleanly cut at withers. Legs strong, must be straight with joints turning neither in nor out. Elbows close to body, working free of the sides. Body Ribs not over-sprung. Chest of moderate depth, capable of being spanned behind the shoulders by average hands. Back strong and straight. Loin slightly arched. Well balanced. Overall length slightly longer than height from withers to ground. Hindquarters Strong, muscular with good angulation and bend of stifle. Hocks set low and rear pasterns parallel giving plenty of drive. Feet Compact with firm pads, turning neither in nor out. Tail Strong, straight, moderately high set carried well up on the move. Customarily docked with length complimenting the body while providing a good handhold. Gait/movement Free striding, well coordinated, straight action front and behind. Coat Naturally harsh, close and dense, whether rough or smooth. Belly and undersides coated. Skin must be thick and loose. Colour Entirely white, or predominantly white with tan, lemon or black markings, or any combination of these colours, preferably confined to the head and/or root of tail. Size Ideal height at withers: dogs 35cm (14in): bitches 33cm (13in). 2.5cm (1in) above or below is acceptable. Faults Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree. Note: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. © The Kennel Club Docking and the law A ban on tail docking came into effect in the UK early in the spring of 2007. No dogs can be docked in Scotland, but there are exceptions for certain breeds in England and Wales. Dogs may only be docked by a qualified veterinary surgeon if they are convinced that the dog will be used for work, and even then they have the right to refuse. The puppy should be presented before it is five days old, the vet must have view of the puppies’ dam and the sight of a document signed by the applicant claiming the puppy will be used for pest control. Further proof will be required by the vet in the shape of a shotgun licence issued to the owner of the dog or a letter from a gamekeeper or land owner with shooting rights, a person representing the National Working Terrier Federation (and other responsible persons connected with vermin control) who will state they know the person whose puppy is to be docked and they have been used on property owned or managed by them. In England, terriers of any type or combination of types can be shown. In Wales, the law regarding docked terriers is different and is applicable only to the following: Jack Russell Terriers, Cairn Terriers, Lakeland Terriers and Norfolk Terriers but not combinations of breeds. A dog docked before 28th March 2007 in Wales and 6th April in England may continue to be shown in the UK throughout its natural life. A dog docked on or after the above dates, no matter where it was docked, may not be shown in England and Wales where the public is charged for admission. However, dogs legally docked in England and Wales can be shown where the public is charged for entry, so long as It is to be shown in a way to demonstrate its working ability and not for conformity to a Standard. A dog legally docked in England, Wales, Northern Ireland or overseas may be shown in Scotland. Warning: If a person is found guilty of an offence under the Animal Welfare Act 2006 (England) the penalty can be a fine of ?20,000 or imprisonment of 51 weeks or both. The Parson Russell Terrier Chapter 2 (#ulink_94f03c45-9af1-59c0-b942-73d962c2e442) Acquiring a puppy (#ulink_94f03c45-9af1-59c0-b942-73d962c2e442) The best time to collect your puppy is when he is about eight or nine weeks old. At this stage, he should be mature enough to settle into his new home with minimal stress and upheaval for both of you. Start socializing him immediately – learning about the world will help make him more confident and less likely to experience behaviour problems later on. Responsible dog ownership Introducing a puppy into your home is a big step, particularly if it is the first time you have owned a dog. However, before rushing into buying a dog, it is of prime importance that you decide whether you can manage the newcomer. Do you have enough time to house train, socialize and exercise him? Have you considered the weekly cost of feeding him and sudden expenses you may incur, e.g. a vet’s bill? Remember that a dog is a sentient creature. He is also a pack animal and is happiest when he is surrounded by his family – human or dog. It is not fair on a young puppy, or an adult dog for that matter, to leave him alone whilst you and members of your family are out at work for many hours each day. It is not in their nature to be alone, and, almost certainly, they will get into some sort of mischief from sheer boredom, such as chewing the furniture, their bedding or your cushions. So do think very carefully before deciding to welcome a dog into your household, especially an active dog with a working temperament, such as a Jack Russell. Which style is right for you? Because there are two styles of the breed – the Parson Russell Terrier and the Jack Russell Terrier – you must consider which type you want. This will depend on what you expect to do with the adult dog. Parson Russell type If you want to show and breed from your dog eventually under the Kennel Club (KC) rules, you will need to buy a puppy from a breeder who breeds Parson Russell Terriers, registers them with the Kennel Club and who adheres as closely as possible to the written Standard. Only dogs that are registered with the Kennel Club can be shown at their shows, and only puppies born of KC registered parents can be registered. This Parson Russell puppy looks adorable but before you acquire one, consider whether it is the right decision for you and your family. Jack Russell type If you are not interested in exhibiting dogs in the formal atmosphere of Kennel Club (KC) shows, you prefer country pursuits and do not wish to register any puppies that you may breed, you can buy your puppy from a breeder who breeds under the Jack Russell Terrier Club of Great Britain’s (JRTC of GB) rules and Breed Standard. Their dogs will be known as Working Jack Russells or Hunt Jack Russells. You will still be allowed to show your dog at KC Companion Shows as well as the Terrier shows staged by agriculture societies or the local hunt. Differences between the types After reading this, you would be forgiven for asking: ‘So what is the difference between the two types?’ In truth, not a lot, but there is a difference in height. The reason is that the working Terrier has to work the earths that are available: small Terriers fit small holes and big Terriers do not. If you study both the Standards, you will see that: Activities The Kennel Club allows non-registered dogs to participate in certain activities, such as Flyball, Obedience, Agility and Heelwork to Music. Because of their intelligence, energy and strength, Jack Russells are able to perform very well in all these disciplines. • Both types should be capable of the work for which they were developed • Their chests should be spannable by average-sized hands • They should be able to run 20–30 miles a day or more with Foxhounds • They should be brave enough to enter a fox’s earth and face an angry fox. I do not think that just because the Kennel Club has recognized the breed the hunting instinct has been diluted. It may happen in 100 years’ time, but other Terrier breeds that have not been bred for work since World War I will still have a go if trained. It is doubtful if the genetic structure of instinct can be changed in just a few years. The problem is that if a breeder has a really fine KC registered dog, which is winning a great deal at the championship shows, then it is unlikely that they will risk putting him to fox, so he will never have the opportunity to prove his metal in the field. There is also a train of thought that a puppy from working stock will not be as good a pet as one from show stock. However, the Jack Russell or Parson Russell, whatever you call him, is one of the most adaptable terriers. He is highly intelligent and will adapt to all the situations in which he finds himself. Sourcing a puppy Before we consider the best sources for Jack Russell puppies, here is a word of warning. Because of the bad mixed breeding and the over-production of ‘counterfeit’ Jack Russells, the following sources should always be avoided: • Buying from a man in the pub • Buying from a puppy farmer • Buying from a white van in a motorway car park • Buying from a dog dealer • Buying from a pet shop. Puppies love to play together, and by going to a breeder’s home you can observe them interacting with each other and their mother and get an idea of their character. If something should go wrong after the sale – for instance, the puppy is ill or shows a genetic anomaly – you will have no redress and will probably never see the first, third and fourth people listed above ever again. The second and fifth sources will still be there, but they will not be of any help if you do experience some problems. If you see puppies advertised in local or free newspapers, you should be wary if several breeds are listed within the same advertisement. These small ads are usually placed by puppy farmers and/or dog dealers. The same advice applies to puppies that are advertised on the Internet. If you see an advertisement exclusively for Jack Russell puppies and, when you ring the number quoted, there is resistance to you visiting the puppies in their home, forget it – don’t go. The puppies should not leave their mother and littermates to go to their new homes until they are at least eight weeks old. Do your homework Research the breed thoroughly before you commit to a purchase. The Internet is a good source of information, as are the canine weekly newspapers. For useful addresses, contact numbers and websites of people who will help you find a type of puppy, turn to page 126 (#litres_trial_promo). For Parson Russell Terriers, the Kennel Club will be your best source of information, followed by the breed clubs. To find breeders of the genuine working type of Jack Russell, contact the secretary of the regional section of the Jack Russell Club of GB. It would be a good idea to go to one of their shows where you can meet the breeders. Other good sources are places where dog owners congregate, such as training clubs. Veterinary surgeons can often help, too, as they will invariably know the local breeders. There are also Jack Russells for rehoming in rescue centres, the best of which try to match the dogs with potential owners. Charities such as Dogs Trust and Battersea Dogs Home do their best to assess a dog’s temperament and match him to a new home. Viewing the puppies Good breeders do not sell their puppies before they are at least eight weeks old, and, ideally, you should visit a litter when they are about six weeks old. This is a good opportunity to see the puppies with their mother in their own home. If you are looking for a family pet, take your children with you – these dogs are long lived and will be around for the children’s formative years. Keep them (the kids) under strict control, and remember that the puppies may never have seen small human beings before. When you go to the breeder’s to see the puppies, it is a good idea to examine them, checking their health and temperament. Ask to see the puppies’ mother, and do not buy a pup if the breeder cannot or refuses to show her to you. You are looking for a well-balanced dog who has not got short piano legs with turned-out feet. This type of dog is probably a cross breed and, although it may be a good hunting dog, it will not be a real Jack Russell and the puppies will probably end up looking like their mother. Also, check the mother’s temperament and how she responds to you; if she is fearful, cringes or is aggressive in any way, do not buy one of her puppies. Likewise, take a crafty look around where the puppies are living. If their surroundings and bed are dirty or soiled and foul smelling, consider excusing yourself and just leave. Ideally, puppies should be raised in the breeder’s own home – not an outhouse, barn, garage or outdoor kennels – in a clean, healthy environment where they can be well socialized and become accustomed to all the various household noises and the comings and goings of different people. Examining the puppies If you are satisfied that the puppies are of the type that you want and that their home environment is happy and healthy, study them closely. Watch how they play together and interact with their mother as well as their littermates. Try to gauge their temperament. If you are looking for a bitch puppy, then ask the breeder to remove the dogs – or vice versa if you are looking for a male puppy. The most favoured colours most people look for in Jack Russells are completely white bodies with black and/or tan ears and round the eyes and a coloured patch at the root of the tail. The puppy you are looking for should be a happy extrovert who is full of life, bold, unafraid and naturally curious. You should examine the puppy of your choice very carefully. • Start off by checking that the puppy’s upper and lower teeth are in line – the upper front teeth should be just over the lower in a scissor bite • Make sure that the ears are clean and not smelly • There must be no sign of mucus from the nose, vulva or rectum. If you do decide to buy a puppy, the breeder may want to check on your credentials as a worthy potential owner, and you should not be offended if you are asked some pertinent or personal questions about your home, lifestyle, work, etc. The breeder is not being nosey or prying into your affairs; they are protecting their puppy and ensuring that he goes to a good home where he will be loved and well looked after. Agreement to purchase The breeder may want you to leave a deposit to secure the puppy you like. By all means, leave a small one but get a written agreement that should the puppy not be in the same good condition in two weeks’ time when he is ready to leave home, there is no contract to buy. Some breeders, particularly those who register with the Kennel Club, may offer their buyers four to six weeks’ free insurance and a ‘buy back’ agreement should the puppy not be suitable. Many people who breed the hunting-type Jack Russells are just as concerned about the future welfare of their puppies and they may offer similar facilities. With either type, you must insist on getting a receipt for the money that you hand over and also ask for the puppy’s papers. If they are not forthcoming, get an agreement that the breeder will apply for them and will send them to you in, say, two to three weeks. Crates are not cruel for puppies, although you should not leave them shut inside for too long. With some cosy bedding, toys and water, they can become a safe den for your dog. Be prepared Now is the time to prepare for the arrival of your new puppy. In the time between visiting him and making the decision to purchase and bring him home, there are certain preparations that you will need to make. Make sure that you have the following items of essential equipment before collecting the puppy: • A crate which is big enough for the puppy when he is fully grown (this could be used for travelling, too) • A bed – heavy plastic for preference (basketwork is ideal for chewing) • Vetbedor fleece bedding for comfort • Two or three tough playthings and toys • Two unchewable water and food dishes • A light cat collar and lead • A leather collar and lead to fit him when he is an adult dog • An identification tag for the collar with your address and telephone number engraved on it • A six- or eight-panel puppy play pen. When I acquire a new puppy, I always prepare a cardboard box. I remove the top, cut a hole in the wall of the box which is big enough for a puppy to pass through, and then turn it upside down on a piece of Vetbed which I cover with a sweater from a member of the household. Puppies love to go inside; they get a sense of security and even if they chew it, it doesn’t matter – I can always prepare another one. Collecting your puppy On the big day, don’t go alone to pick up the puppy. Ideally, two people should collect him as he will need to be held and comforted in the car on the way home – he may never have been in a car before and nor will he have left his family. Take some towels and tissues with you in case he is travel sick. Persuade the breeder to give you about seven days’ worth of the food that the puppy is accustomed to eating – this will prevent stomach upsets in the transitory period. The breeder should also give you a diet sheet, detailing how often and when he should be fed. If the puppy is old enough to have already had his first vaccinations, get the certificates to show your own vet. If he has not been vaccinated, do not let him out of the car to urinate in lay-bys under any circumstances – they are hotbeds of infection and it is not worth taking unnecessary risks. A dog is at his most vulnerable regarding disease when he is a puppy or a pensioner, so, in view of the cost of a puppy and the high fees charged by vets, it is a good idea to purchase pet health insurance. Some breeders will even provide this, at least for a limited transitional period, and the Kennel Club makes arrangements when a puppy is transferred to the new owner. Fortunately, the average Jack Russell is made of stern stuff and he will seldom need the attentions of the veterinary profession, but you never know what the future may bring – accidents can happen. Other things to do Find a vet you respect and like and tell him/her about your new addition. Make an appointment to see the vet two days after the puppy arrives home for a health check and his vaccinations. Make certain that your garden really is escape proof. Jack Russells are notorious escapologists and the smallest hole attracts them like a bee to a flower. So check for holes in fences, gaps in hedges, gates that can be crawled under, bars that are wide enough to allow a small puppy through, and unprotected garden ponds. Similarly, in the house, ensure that cupboard doors at ground level are securely closed, there are no trailing electrical leads or wires that can be chewed, and consider positioning a child gate at the bottom of steep stairs until the puppy is older. Coming home The first thing to do when you arrive home is to take your new puppy out into the garden. When he performs (urinating or defecating), praise him lavishly. Whatever you do, however, you must not let the children go wild with him; he could get over-excited and leave an unpleasant deposit on your new carpet. He needs some quiet time to snuffle about and discover and get acquainted with his new surroundings. Feeding your puppy Give your puppy a small amount of food, make some fresh water available to him and call him by his name. Throw a little titbit into his box or basket to tempt him into it, but avoid feeding him sweets, cakes and chocolate, which is poisonous to dogs. Treats should consist of tiny morsels of cooked meat, liver or very small pieces of dog biscuit. You should feed your puppy four small meals a day. His stomach is still very small, but as he grows the meals can get smaller in number but larger in quantity. By the time he is between six and eight months, he can be fed just twice a day. Initially, continue to give him the food recommended by the breeder, but you can gradually change it to whatever you have opted to use,. However, don’t do this too quickly, otherwise an upset stomach will ensue. Don’t offer the puppy cow’s milk unless his breeder has given it to him from birth – some dogs find it difficult to digest. Your vet can supply you with a milk substitute which is adequate, if necessary. A dog can live a perfectly healthy life drinking only water. Your puppy will need several small meals a day while he is still very young. Decrease the number gradually as he grows older. Start training It is never too early to start training and socializing your puppy, and there are some important things you need to start doing as soon as you bring him home. He will learn quickly and will soon get used to the new routine. Using a crate To get your puppy accustomed to going into his crate, simply feed him inside it. Give him the same command each time: ‘In your box’. Leave the door open to start with as you want to get him used to going in and out without any stress. After about three days, shut him in for five to ten minutes and then gradually increase the length of time he is confined each day to about one hour. He will eventually travel happily in the crate or go in of his own accord for short periods of rest or sleep – the crate will become his den where he can escape from the busy world. Have it fitted with a water dispenser, but don’t keep him confined for too long. Using a puppy pen You can also start to train him into his puppy pen; this will be a godsend when you want to vacuum the carper – he’ll probably want to kill the vacuum cleaner – or need to pop out to the shops for half an hour. A puppy pen will keep him safe and secure. He can have his bed, toys and a water bowl inside, and watch everything that is going on around him without feeling isolated. Again, don’t be too long or he will become anxious. The first night Before you put your puppy into his bed for the night, take him outside, wait for him to perform and then praise him enthusiastically. Spread sheets of clean newspaper all round the area where he sleeps. This is the beginning of house training, and the puppy will not want to soil his bedding. The first couple of nights are often quite difficult for both of you. Your puppy may squeak and howl with loneliness, and I am afraid that you must harden your heart because if you go to him he is, in effect, training you to come at his beck and call. Your puppy will be safe in a puppy pen, which you can move around the house or garden. He can relax and watch the outside world. Helpful tips for bedtime • Place a ticking clock near to the puppy’s bed Конец ознакомительного фрагмента. Текст предоставлен ООО «ЛитРес». Прочитайте эту книгу целиком, купив полную легальную версию (https://www.litres.ru/robert-killick/jack-russell-terrier-an-owner-s-guide/?lfrom=688855901) на ЛитРес. 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